Why rear wheels lock on braking?

[quf]

And how can I avoid spinning on minimal turning from a high speed braking, because even with abs and tc on I feel the rear wheels locking and making the squeee sound, even though I apply a smooth braking without burning the asphalt with the rubber, at the end of the braking when I want to make the curve the rear wheels lock and I lose control.

Another question I'd like to ask, how do you record what you see on the screen, like me driving on cockpit view with the apps on screen, using replay function (if yes, how pls) or external program?

[quf]

So far I figured out that when the rear wheels are about to lock or lock indeed, I should hit the gas again and continue driving ahead to avoid losing control, works most of the time but still need to be careful how I turn.

[IDrive]

if your brakes lock you need to move your brake bias to the rear. To record I am sure there are other programs but I use bandicam. Basically you start bandicam, then start game and load replay you have saved. You can also record when driving but it effects the graphics and you can get lag or cpu overload. So I always save a replay and then record the replay using bandicam. So after bandicam gets done recording replay then I use this program handbrake to convert it so windows movie maker can recognize the file. Then make movie in windows movie maker where you can add effects and music. I know it is a lot but that was the easiest way for me to do it.

[Incubus]

What car are you driving? Have you tried without TC? ABS is fine... It also helps with stability to do most of the braking before turning in and accellerate out. Rear wheel drive cars will twitch at the rear, it's the nature of the beast. If it slides out, you have to be fast enough to catch it. That's the hard part.

[quf]

Postat inițial de Incubus:

What car are you driving?

I was driving the lotus elise. Meanwhile I started driving other cars like pagani zonda r what an incredible car at high speed maneuvering and braking. I also need to be very careful with BMWs.

[Incubus]

I find lotus hard to drive to be honest. Try slower cars first before jumping into the faster cars. Try the e30 m3 or the Formula abarth. Two totally different cars but not hard to keep on the track unless you're flying :)

The lotus seemed to have some crazy snap oversteer when you lift off the gas pedal. I've been told to stay on the gas mid turn on mid engine cars. Ive only driven a few mid engine cars, but just around the block.

[Arya]

Lotus appear to have a general preffered handling style that's extremely neutral. They're very sensitive to throttle percentage, but you can use that to your advantage. They just take practice; it's a different way of doing things.

As for your issue OP, try checking your car's Brake Bias. Cars don't have their braking power distributed equally, or their weight or their tyre grip. As a result sometimes you may need to adjust some settings to keep the car drivable.

I recommend moving the Brake Bias forward, making sure you're not applying 100% brake straight away, and generally giving the car more time to "settle" and "load" the front tyres before you try using 100% of the brake.

[Nerbur]

Have you got the brake range set up correctly in the options menu? If the game isn't set to using your pedal's full range that could make the brakes overly sensitive. If that's not it, try playing around with brake gamma to see if that helps.

[Mr Crisp]

Postat inițial de Incubus:

I find lotus hard to drive to be honest. Try slower cars first before jumping into the faster cars. Try the e30 m3 or the Formula abarth. Two totally different cars but not hard to keep on the track unless you're flying :)

The lotus seemed to have some crazy snap oversteer when you lift off the gas pedal. I've been told to stay on the gas mid turn on mid engine cars. Ive only driven a few mid engine cars, but just around the block.

That is known as `lift off ovesteer`- very apparant in a mid-mouned rear whel drive car, whiich is what Lotus cars are about.

The idea is to balance the weight to stop it shifting to the front too much and too quickly when lifting off the throttle- a mid mounted car will understeer then oversteer quicker than most- you need a quick reaction but they are very rewarding.

[quf]

Thanks for your replies, I'll keep practicing, I'm playing with controller not wheel/pedals, however the xbone pad has axis for throtle and brake on the triggers and it simulates very well pedals. So far I've been playing with automatic gears but I found that learning no assists including manual shifting (manual just for up and down) is making me drive better because requires more concentration and awarness of everything.

I still have two questions:
I'm trying to practice and play well with default car settings, but I don't know which side of the brake bias is front or rear, and does setting a button for brake balance front and brake balance rear do anything when pressed? and if they do, is it like complete shift to rear brake and if I press the other button complete shift to front brake?

Second question:
As I'm playing with controller profile I don't have option for clutch and I disabled it in assists, even throtle blip, does that mean while driving and changing gear manually my cars aren't using the clutch? I don't know well how these things work, I don't drive irl nor much knowledge whatsoever.

[IDrive]

in setup under braking bias the futher you move dial to right the more rear braking and if you move to left the more bias braking for front. I haven't used too much of the braking adjustments when in car, but I would assume if you are in a car that you can adjust the brakes then those buttons will work when you are driving car. For example, Abarth 500 you cant change brake bias so you will not be able to do it when you are in the car.

if you take off clutch to change gears it is automatic change so all you got to do is shift to specific gear and clutch will be automatic.

[Ragequit Inc.]

The other way around? Moving the slider to the right (increasing value) is moving the brake balance to the front. And left is rearwards.

This is semi-speculation, but as far as I've (minimally) tried it, the brakebalance-buttons seem to work, on cars that allow adjusting it in the first place. And no, it's not 'full-front' or 'full-rear', when you press them, I'd assume it's 1% per click. Might have to do some proper tests on that, haven't seen mention of it anywhere. If it does work though, it would be lovely to have a visual indication of it, as I've said before.

[IDrive]

ragequit is right on brake bias. Whatever number shows is front bias #. So if the number is 70 under brake bias it means 70 front and 30 rear. That is too funny this whole time I thought it was reverse.

[Slack Villeneuve]

Same problem with locking up rear with G27. Seems hand brake and foot pedal were linked on mine. Assigned hand brake to another button in advanced and problem soved.

[Marty]

There are lots of things that cause the rear locking or just getting loose on entry. Main thing can be basic wheels locking and for this you can adjust brake balance so move it forward to take some load off the rear tyres. With ABS you can have a bit more front brake as it will avoid locking inside fron unloaded tyre which is a commone thing without abs.

The other main reason why the rear will get loose is simple weight transfer. As you brake the weight moves forward and taking some load of the rear so this means it has less grip.

Add to this rear brake or engine braking by downshifting too early possibly locking rears under compression as you shift down. Even just diff coast settings will effect if the rear will try to rotate off throttle or keep going straight.

Cars with diff settings open, lower coast to make the car want to turn in more off throttle or raise it to reduce this a bit if you dont want too much lift off overstear. You will however get to a point where slow corners the car will tend to understeer more as your off throttle if diff coast is too high.

You can adjust suspension to reduce the front diving too much under brakes and so keep some load at the rear. If your much smoother in transition between throttle and braking it will avoid a very agressive weight shift too so this is the best way to do it. Dont go instant off throttle and full brake as this will cause the front to dive and rear end will come loose very easy. Ease off the throttle and onto the brakes gently.

Same as not shifting down at too high an rpm while also adding some throttle to downshifts to raise rpm and reduce rear compression lockups. This can be done with the heal and toe technique or some right foot braking.

[Ravnhood]

Holy thread ressurection Batman!