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I've been using a LUT file for a while now and it's definitely smoothed things out with using my g29
Amazing. Now we are talking! Thanks!
Like 7:07 in the vid, all the jagged edges dont do ANYTHING, you wont ever feel that, and it has NOTHING to do with clipping. Its perfectly fine, even if you smooth it out its not gonna feel any different.
Rasmus LUT may feel better because its hand crafted and comes with other settings that need to be tuned to given LUT. While your LUT is a raw data from a non direct force test. It just needs some cleanup and appropriate settings!
By using Rasmus LUT you are loosing the main advantage of LUT in the first place, the fact that for G27/29 the FFB is internally broken down into few sections. You can see it on the LUT line itself as it transitions from one steepness to another, thats the BIG thing about LUT to reverse the internal processing of the wheel you have. Small jaggedness mean nothing, its the overal steepness of the curve at given points that matter.
Personally i just craft LUTs myself. Start with a wheelcheck output and boil it down to few points. for G27/9 can be as little as 5-7 lines going like this:
0|0 unnecessery for normal driving, cleans output in case of bugs.
0.01|0 the start of force, this effectively IS minimum force adjustment, literally.
0.02|0.09 the initial hump over internal resistance of the wheel you want to fine tune this for the wheel to feel good.
0.5|0.28 the midpoint where steepness change
0.72|0.7 second steepness change (this one depends on exact model, i've seen many different of positions of this point over the years, your seem pretty smooth up there)
0.92|0.92 3rd steepness change. This and one before together counters the artificial stiffening near the top end baked into the wheel firmware.
1|0.98 end ... i use an increased force in logi drivers which does few things to the curve, including a clip so any number past 0.98 is essenitally max force anyways. if you use 100% in drivers you want 1|1
And thats it. the position of these points differ based on specific wheel and when it was manufactured, firmware patch number and settings in logitech drivers.
Using LUT made for different wheel or handcrafted (as rasmus's is) is just a shoot in the dark. It might work great, it might just be placebo. So if you are to a point of shooting at random, why not try and adjust the values in your own lut instead, at least after few tries you will know what changes what and you'd have much more control over the whole FFB.
... But then ofc its all subjective. Having FFB perfectly linear on weak wheel is like trying mathematically correct FoV on single screen. Its usable, but for most people not optimal.
Rasmus has done amazing job over the years, not dissing him, but his guide just feels like taking so many steps in right direction, and stopping right in front of the goal.
Thanks though I appreciate the feedback!
With how varied cars and conditions are in AC it takes quite a while to reach a setting that is good in every situation.
G27/29 has very particular FFB, lots of tricky issues so im alywas too pedantic about it. Becasue it can be great when you dial all things down. But i feel like half the reason of good FFB is the user learning how to read it, and copying settings get us half the way only.