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regardless of racing or drifting: ffb-levels are highly subjective in feel only.
Meaning: when you need information out of your wheel at a certain point in time and your wheel has been clipping at it's peak force for a while: you have objectively set it too strong in the game.
And that happens on a regular basis for a number of cars with any wheel, as it is the signal doing {left|right,0%<applied_force<100%} somewhat between 100 and 500 times a second that you "set up" in-game.
But it is your wheel that gives you the final output - so it both matters, a lot.
1) Minimum force, if your wheel is slow to accelerate, thats a good setting to increase (it will be very wheel specific, gotta tune that on your own)
2) FFB gain, importantly per car and general get multiplied by each other so just one value will tell you nothing. Open pedal app and make sure you are hitting red on the ffb bar but not all the time. It will change based on conditions, car and tyres selected... i use 83% gain in game and 100-130% in car (depending on grip, lower grip more %).
3) if your wheel is slow at max speed (and the car has not a lot of lock) rising FFB strength will give you diminishing returs and may never feel good even at 200%. In such case instead of going up with FFB gain you want to reduce steering rotation, effectively increasing tyre turning speed. on G27 i use 800 degrees instead of default 900.
I really was just wondering what in car FFB % people use because in my opinion 100 or more in car FFB was too much, that might just be because I'm not really used to drifting yet. I myself use 100 FFB on my T300RS and 100 gain. Thanks for the tip tho!
For racing as Simon mentions you definitely want as little clipping as resonable, but for drifting imho it does not matter. You won't get any bad habits from having the FFB too high and clipping (while too low FFB would).
Thrustmaster driver-settings out of the box are about 75% overall force. I put it on 80% because unfortunately, Assetto Corsa is not the only sim / game I drive. that master-level slider does shape the curve inside the wheel's driver. It does not raise or lower the wheel's maximum output - unless you put it way down: then it will effectively map 100% game-signal to a lower than standard peak-force - but there is virtually no need for you to do that with any worthwhile sim.
Assetto Corsa has one of the most innovative ffb-tools of any sim: "low-force boost". It litterally boosts the low side of the forces spectrum in an aim to make you feel "something" where you would have felt nothing before, specifically designed to compress the signal from below in order to make it more palatible for lower-output wheels as well as help to ovecome any one wheel's individual mechanical friction and standing-still-inertia. The correct way to use it is to take one of your most-raced / most-driven cars and lap around a track you know well, fast and cleanly on the type of tyre you use most often. Before you beginn, it might be a good idea to put the global gain (in the main menu) to default 100%. Then proceed on to the track. Try to avoid off-tracks and high curbs and then set your gain low enough that you have good definition throughout the strong ffb-events and avoid clipping. You might need to get the tyres up to temp and use a full fuel-load in order to simulate maximum-weight and -grip conditions. Or you might want to use tyre-warmers and minimum fuel in order to optimise for hotlapping/qualifying conditions. That choice is up to you.
Once you lowered/adjusted your gain, now you want to raise your minimum-force up until you get the noise-floor of the signal felt in the wheel, again. Make a mental note of the value you arrived at and copy that value into Assetto Corsa's global "minimum-force" settings. You should have now set it at a level that suits your wheel about right for any car you drive in this game.
From then on, you should only have to worry about each car's individual on-track "gain" paramater, as it scales the maximum force up or down to manage the signal-ceiling for each individual car. IIRC it overrides the global gain parameter per car. Thing is: some cars inside Assetto Corsa have a hidden gain-multiplyer applied to them that is different to the rest of them. They did this in the name of immersion, in order to make players instantly feel a difference going from e.g. a light-weight track-day car to a high-downforce GT3 car.
The problem with that is that it also means clipping will be introduced by doing so. And not all of us can afford or make practical use of industrial servo-motors meant to power heavy-duty lathes, production-robots and conveyer-belts to offer enough output-scale to embrace those differences in steering-output without running into issues.
95% of us will only use humble plastic-wheels where we will find the need to raise, lower or compress the signal so it fits inside the power-envelope of our driving-wheels and still provides the sort of information that we are looking for.
ps: im not well wersed of what these settings do, but increasing sensitivity in one part of the range always has opposite effect on the other half. So unless it works like minimum force, it will be a double edged sword, and we kind of had that with LUT gamma, or in fact some wheels like G27 have that ("low boost gain") by default - which is why LUT was even created - to counteract this hardware level post processing and get linear FFB.
Thou that did remind me ...
@488 one of the better setting for drifting (and in general) is gyroscopic forces effect, thou not the original Kunos option that is only a fix for direct drive wheels and not an actual gyro simulation, but part of the CSP "FFB Tweaks". Where recommended is 25% but im running 100% and it's great (on T300 you'd probaly want something in between).
What it does is increase FFB force for countersteers while keeping normal "racing" steering FFB at normal low levels.
My G25 needed at least 15% back in the day just to get past the notchiness of the ever wearing straight-cut gear-teeth. That was the point at which I tried messing around with that iracing-sourced lut- generator. And that felt quite o.k. for a while - but it ultimately lead me to look for something better. With the T300 I have opted not to use any LUT in A.C. but to do it the old-school way described above. Works well enough I feel.
Sensitivity is useful for the earliest of ffb-wheels I feel. The kind with limited rotation of about 240..270 degrees either side of center. Those were the first ones you could buy - and I had 2.
If you use a modern wheel and are not an alien who knows things that I do not, I suggest you use either softlock or set the rotation-limit of your modern wheel to wherever you see fit, but leave the sensitivity alone.
Yes there actually are upmarket road-cars out there where you could order a progressively-sensitive steering-box as an option... ...but for racing-cars I know of exactly 0 types that ever had one. For me personally the mere thought of such a device makes my back hair stand up in disgust. It does not make much sense for real performance-driving in my mind (it really must be one of those convenience-driven ideas meant for high-speed long-distance-cruising, something extra to make margin on)
had forgotten about that, thx for the reminder!
Yeah minimum force is important, i thought you meant something that adjusts the whole range - like gamma, which no matter if it's brakes or steering makes one side of the range compact (overly sensitive, less details, less precise) and the other wide (less sensitivity meaning easier to feel details in FFB case, or more precision in brakes case). I did not mean the literal setting called "sensitivity" :) (we both know how that works it seems).
Cheers.