Tyre blankets and AI

[vlastovka]

Hello,

I would like to ask if all cars in offline mode use tyre blankets. I found some cars impossible to race without the blankets. Blankets off, ABS on and my car did not brake and I hit car in front of me before a corner.
Another example, I had AI difficulty at only 80%, I drove corner at same speed at my opponent, he did not have any problem and my car spinned :(

And I don't know why, but even with tyre blankets tyre temperature keeps dropping from green to blue color in their UI. I raced Forza Motorsport, tyres there warmed up to ok temp withing 1 lap and stayed ok unless wheels got locked or car went sideways. Never got cool tyres there with bad adhesion.

[rola]

Tyres warm fine in this game. And if youre struggling to beat 80% ai, sounds like youre just too used to the arcade handling of Forza vs this simulator...

[Mr Deap]

On Tyre app the PSI need to be green & equal for left/right while lapping. (green mean tire spec)

Road car suspension spec isn't suited for race track use as it lead to more compression & the suspension geometry aren't designed for racetrack use. The quick fix is max negative camber, the toe setting is a tad bit more aggressive based on the suspension geometry to compensate.

Don't listen to the slow in/fast out fad, it's BS.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLd163FUmas

-Fast in, Slow out
-Late on the brake
-Brake at 100% & turn at the same time is faster before trail braking(or bomb diving with the brake)
-Trail brake deep into the apex(general rule is to keep the same deceleration rate thorough the whole entry phase)
-On very sharp chicane you have to trail brake past the apex
-Use the brake to turn, not to balance(basically you hold the brake pressure & turn at the same time)
-All speed is mostly gained at the entry phase
-Late on accelerator while stomping it is faster
-More rough input, the faster is your lap. The right timing is more important than how it is inputted.

Make sure you don't get acceleration force before the apex, cause you will automatically get a slow exit speed.

Electronic aids. Driving assist is part of the setup in simracing

Factory electronic aids, ABS allow you to corner faster(like holding the brake at 100% & turn at the same time until mid entry on high speed corners). ABS automatically adjust the brake pressure level for each brake when cornering the corner faster effortless & win easy, while without ABS you will more likely to lock the inside front tire no matter how good you are at braking, thus driving skill in videogame was a thing. The driving physic in sims game promote a large disparity of advantage at cornering speed performance in the usage of ABS by abusing bomb diving.

[vlastovka]

Originally posted by HighRoLa:

Tyres warm fine in this game. And if youre struggling to beat 80% ai, sounds like youre just too used to the arcade handling of Forza vs this simulator...

First, Forza Motorsport is not arcade, it is a blend between simulation and arcade.
Second I am used to my real car, a car similar to VW Golf 3, with Continental Premium Contact 2. It has a very good grip, without a need to race a circuit or to do special maneuvers to heat up tyres. The limit for my daily car is that I don't have a closed road to push its limits. Of course I don't have experience driving a race car with race tyres...

Regarding AI, I did not have problems with Abarth 500 or the entry level Alfa. I only have problems with tail heavy cars :)

[Mr Deap]

Just insert those magic numbers & end with it. When the PSI is at spec while driving the tire heat faster(Tire core temp actually heat) while gripping.

80% difficulty is a joke & you shouldn't even struggle with the AI at all even with terrible driving.

[clairvoyantwolf]

Street tires are not the same as racing slicks. Street tires at racing speeds overheat. And racing tires at street speeds are too cold to develop any grip (as you experienced). I don't mean this to sound condescending but drive faster. Your tires are cold because you're not generating enough friction

[ling.speed]

Originally posted by vlastovka:

First, Forza Motorsport is not arcade, it is a blend between simulation and arcade.
Second I am used to my real car, a car similar to VW Golf 3, with Continental Premium Contact 2. It has a very good grip, without a need to race a circuit or to do special maneuvers to heat up tyres. The limit for my daily car is that I don't have a closed road to push its limits. Of course I don't have experience driving a race car with race tyres...

Golf 3 was the best street golf made imho :).
But that continental tyres you have would likely melt on track. As many of them do in AC.
With semislicks it gets a bit tricky as they can have pretty wide range of softness, meaning they can run at very different temps. In AC semis are modeled after pretty hard RL compound so on lighter cars they will go colder. And some of the super/hyper cars have special tyres that also are based on harder slicks which again means you'll see them light blue often, especially when your pace is lower. Actually pace could be considered the 3rd most important factor to tyre temperature on track after compound and weather.

But don't be alarmed at light blue colors, most tyres have plenty of grip when "cool" and in some cases you aren't supposed to keep "optimum" temps. It's the darker blue when "cold" that means trouble.
But really just make sure your pressures are in the bright green when on track at your standard pace. It's much more important than temperature.

[Mr Deap]

Originally posted by vlastovka:

First, Forza Motorsport is not arcade, it is a blend between simulation and arcade.
Second I am used to my real car, a car similar to VW Golf 3, with Continental Premium Contact 2. It has a very good grip, without a need to race a circuit or to do special maneuvers to heat up tyres. The limit for my daily car is that I don't have a closed road to push its limits. Of course I don't have experience driving a race car with race tyres...

Regarding AI, I did not have problems with Abarth 500 or the entry level Alfa. I only have problems with tail heavy cars :)

You got it completely wrong. Forza is in fact a simulator, just like Assetto Corsa. Forza permanent steering aid is garbage, but still a simulator.

What define a driving simulator is having assist & insert magic number to win.

[rola]

Originally posted by Mr Deap:

On Tyre app the PSI need to be green & equal for left/right while lapping. (green mean tire spec)

Road car suspension spec isn't suited for race track use as it lead to more compression & the suspension geometry aren't designed for racetrack use. The quick fix is max negative camber, the toe setting is a tad bit more aggressive based on the suspension geometry to compensate.

Don't listen to the slow in/fast out fad, it's BS.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLd163FUmas

-Fast in, Slow out
-Late on the brake
-Brake at 100% & turn at the same time is faster before trail braking(or bomb diving with the brake)
-Trail brake deep into the apex(general rule is to keep the same deceleration rate thorough the whole entry phase)
-On very sharp chicane you have to trail brake past the apex
-Use the brake to turn, not to balance(basically you hold the brake pressure & turn at the same time)
-All speed is mostly gained at the entry phase
-Late on accelerator while stomping it is faster
-More rough input, the faster is your lap. The right timing is more important than how it is inputted.

Make sure you don't get acceleration force before the apex, cause you will automatically get a slow exit speed.

Electronic aids. Driving assist is part of the setup in simracing

Factory electronic aids, ABS allow you to corner faster(like holding the brake at 100% & turn at the same time until mid entry on high speed corners). ABS automatically adjust the brake pressure level for each brake when cornering the corner faster effortless & win easy, while without ABS you will more likely to lock the inside front tire no matter how good you are at braking, thus driving skill in videogame was a thing. The driving physic in sims game promote a large disparity of advantage at cornering speed performance in the usage of ABS by abusing bomb diving.

At one point i was wondering if you were trolling or just an idiot, but this kind of gives it away. Dont go balls to the wall if youre trying to troll. Fast in slow out is slower. Speed is mostly gained on entry? No.

Op, please dont listen to this troll.

[vlastovka]

Originally posted by HighRoLa:

Originally posted by Mr Deap:

....

At one point i was wondering if you were trolling or just an idiot, but this kind of gives it away. Dont go balls to the wall if youre trying to troll. Fast in slow out is slower. Speed is mostly gained on entry? No.

Op, please dont listen to this troll.

I did not pay much attention to his posts, but thank you for confirmation :)

[vlastovka]

I realized my problems probably started when I disabled the blankets for more realism. They were enabled by default when I started my career and I did not know what they meant then.

Originally posted by ling.speed:

But that continental tyres you have would likely melt on track. As many of them do in AC.
With semislicks it gets a bit tricky as they can have pretty wide range of softness, meaning they can run at very different temps. In AC semis are modeled after pretty hard RL compound so on lighter cars they will go colder.

I see, that was my issue with Lotuses.

Originally posted by ling.speed:

But don't be alarmed at light blue colors, most tyres have plenty of grip when "cool" and in some cases you aren't supposed to keep "optimum" temps. It's the darker blue when "cold" that means trouble.

In my last race, I got light blue color only on front outer tyre. Trouble is I am not able to warm up inner tyres and they get cold.

Originally posted by ling.speed:

But really just make sure your pressures are in the bright green when on track at your standard pace. It's much more important than temperature.

I don't understand the green color. With blankets on, pressure is displayed in orange at the start of the race. When pressure later dropped by 0.3 PSI, the indicator turned yellow. When pressure is too low it is displayed in grey I think.

By the way, is it possible to switch the game from PSI to SI units? PSI is quite foreign to me.

[ling.speed]

Originally posted by vlastovka:

I realized my problems probably started when I disabled the blankets for more realism. They were enabled by default when I started my career and I did not know what they meant then.

In my last race, I got light blue color only on front outer tyre. Trouble is I am not able to warm up inner tyres and they get cold.

I don't understand the green color. With blankets on, pressure is displayed in orange at the start of the race. When pressure later dropped by 0.3 PSI, the indicator turned yellow. When pressure is too low it is displayed in grey I think.

By the way, is it possible to switch the game from PSI to SI units? PSI is quite foreign to me.

Most mod apps allow you to switch pressure units, i can't remember if it was possible to switch the default units, but everybody uses PSI when discussing AC so could be a no.
1.8 bar = 26 psi
2.2 bar = 32 psi , to give you an idea. It sucks, but it didn't take me long to get a hang of it.

Pressures are in orange because most cars in AC are set with some level of overpressure (for varying reasons) by default. In general in street cars you ALWAYS want to check pressures and 90% of the time drop them 3-6 PSI.

As for the inner tyre that's pretty normal. It happens when tyre sees very little load when there his high demand for grip (cornering mostly). Nothing you can do about, but also everybody is in the same boat. So just make sure pressure is ok and you are set.

Cars you encounter early on in career will be wonky with temperatures/pressures like that, but it gets better as you progress to faster stuff on better rubber.