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Theres a stock 1M and the stage 3 version. Tyre compound and temps make a big difference as well as track temp. If you drove on a real track during a hot summer and you are driving in AC on a much colder track, it will matter.
How were you driving on the real track, did you really take your own 1M to its absolute limit? Its much easier to do this in AC with a lot of sensations of being in a real car missing so you're probably driving the car in game a lot harder than you did in real life.
You can also setup the car to have less rear sliding by adjust it in the pit.
Thinking about it, I think your observations about the lack of "real" sensations is a big part I hadn't fully considered. One thing I have been experimenting with is FOV to try to get that part right (I have triple monitors) . I actually think the "autoPOV" is pretty close.
I normally drive with ABS and TC on (BMW club requires it) but have now turned off all aids to see if that is helping or hurting. For the record, I rarely hit ABS on the track and only occassionally hit TC. Truthfully, I use them as "hey, dummy, you are getting close to a limit" lights. ;)
I've decided to practice Imola for a while as my high speed braking seems to be the major issue for me right now.
My car has upgraded intake, FMIC, stage 2+ custom tune, camber plates. I am setting up the 1M as close to my car as I can (I use the S3). Camber is interesting because there is the number on the sliders, and the number to the right. Not sure why they are different but I am setting the slider on the left to make the display on the right set to my actual camber.
I also think I know enough now to look for a better wheel and pedal set (this is an Xbox set that was gathering dust). Heck, this may be my primary issue. I just wanted to get some hours in the game before I changed anything.
WRT limits, No, I was never pushing to the limits in my own car. One session in the rain did feel kinda like Asseto dry tho! ;)
The actual track days were generally mild in the PNW(The Ridge and Pacific Raceways were the two tracks). I've been trying to do more research on the tire temp in game (on my actual car I had an instructor teach me to let about 4 psi out to get better traction and allow room for my tires to heat up to ~36psi. To be clear, I am no expert...on a real track or on this game. Just want something to scratch the itch until next spring. ;)
WRT tire temp...I have been playing with lowering air pressures and using the heaters to start out green, but no matter how I drive, they will cool to blue. Of course, all the advice I see is "drive harder"...but that is just getting me to run into things more often, apparently. My real life car doesn't have these helpful indicators...;)
Anyway, back to my original question...are there "more realistic" cars in the game or are they all pretty "real" and I should just keep figuring out the 1M? Or maybe I should just drive the Z4 GT3...that one stays on the track more for me...;)
Totally agree, however, the 1M also goes a lot slower. ;)
My issue is comparison to a real world similar car and, to me, it's "off". I just want it to feel close to how my car feels so I can get some useful training with it. Am still reading forums to improve the experience. Need to hold some variables while I tweak others...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gJCNynaoYA
Pretty impressive. WIsh you could see the wheel and pedal inputs on the AC version. I still see the RL video as more planted. A good example is at 0:56...AC becomes unstable and somehow the driver save it...no such issue with the RL driver. And, in my experience, I have had almost no luck saving it in AC like the driver does at 0:56. For one, I am going to replace my wheel and see if that helps.
Interestingly, I just swapped to the stock 1M and it "feels" more stable to me. Maybe a power delivery thing. I can't seem to find a setting to adjust pedal linearity...
Which map pack is that track in?
Heh...I have been starting with heated tires...then watch them cool down...;) There is definitely a skill factor on my part here...I am no race car driver! I am just trying to resolve why my real car seems to be a lot more capable than the AC car.
Track in video is a mod track
Im using a G29 with a custom LUT file that removes the deadzone, tightens the wheel a bit although still allows for to me feel the road surface and what the tires are doing.
I've driven the 1M at reduced grip levels with no problems. I only drive the stock 1M , the stage 3 version has adjustable turbo and increased HP. Obviously with more HP and turbo at 100 percent your expreince will vary greatly from the stock version.
1M stage 3 has 60 more HP than the stock 1M and 80nm more torque. This is considerably more HP than your 135i so it makes sense driving the stock 1M would feel more planted in comparison to the S3 version.
1M is know to be a twitchy car , add more HP and torque and things will just get worse, hahah
http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/hungaroring.2577/
Thx. I definitely have a new wheel/pedals on my list.
My 135i is modded to about 380HP/400TQ. ;) I also find it pretty stable, not twitchy at all. One of the things i am seeing is that when my real car starts to have the rear lose grip I can just let off the gas a little bit and it stabilizes...in AC, no matter what I do when the rear gets loose...the car goes off the rails. Looking at the throttle "slider" it seems to be less smooth than I'd like...but there is no adjustment. I am hoping a decent set of wheel/pedal will improve on that.
Cool, Thx!
What track were you driving the 1M and haivng traction issues ?
I had an old xbox 360 wheel and from memory the rotation was only 270 degrees, and the ffb is very limited in power and detail. I agree this may be a large part of the problem for you.
What is the lock to lock rotation on your bmw? AC adjusts the rotation based on the car being used, you should invest in a new wheel that has at least that to get a 1:1 relationship in the game, a minimum should be 900 degrees.
There are a lot of good mid to high end wheels around at the moment to choose from, i went from the xbox thru DFGT, g27 and currently a trusty T500 and each time there was a step up in performance and feel, next up for me would be direct drive ( osw or fanatec ) and if you have the funds this would give you the best chance of getting close to rl .