Install Steam
login
|
language
简体中文 (Simplified Chinese)
繁體中文 (Traditional Chinese)
日本語 (Japanese)
한국어 (Korean)
ไทย (Thai)
Български (Bulgarian)
Čeština (Czech)
Dansk (Danish)
Deutsch (German)
Español - España (Spanish - Spain)
Español - Latinoamérica (Spanish - Latin America)
Ελληνικά (Greek)
Français (French)
Italiano (Italian)
Bahasa Indonesia (Indonesian)
Magyar (Hungarian)
Nederlands (Dutch)
Norsk (Norwegian)
Polski (Polish)
Português (Portuguese - Portugal)
Português - Brasil (Portuguese - Brazil)
Română (Romanian)
Русский (Russian)
Suomi (Finnish)
Svenska (Swedish)
Türkçe (Turkish)
Tiếng Việt (Vietnamese)
Українська (Ukrainian)
Report a translation problem
Have you tried plugging the wheel into a different electrical outlet?
Does the wheel base feel hot to the touch? (motor overheating could cause this if fan isn't engaging or vents are dusty)
If it's still under warranty I would shoot Fanatec support.
Hope you get it figured out
Windows will deliver a chime sound if a USB device is connected/ disconnected through your sound system, check the cable for loose connection. The 24v power supply for the wheel may have a green LED on the brick when it’s working. FFB motors are known for failure (code 888) with signs of weak force before they overheat and shut off. I believe the elite had a 2 year warranty.
Though with the setup I use, FFB settings at about 70 It doesn't heat up as much and is still better than my old g27 as far as FFB strength.
I do wonder how high you have your FFB setup on the wheel?
I have wanted to set mine a bit higher at times but it does start to get noisy and that put me off.
Could be the 24v power brick shutting down momentarily, loose wire connections inside the wheel base, or internal short. One location for wires shorting is the back end of the axle shaft, the wires for wheel face (buttons, shifter paddles, LCD) go down the center of the shaft. Some were made with ribbon cable. Some shafts had a sharp edge at the bottom end and would rub through the wire insulation.
Some have found a bad connection at the back side of the power plug-in jack, shaking the power cord at the wheel base might show the failure.
I remember one odd report with an all metal rig. Somehow a mounted component had a elevated ground. When the rig would flex, it would make a electrical connection to the rest of the frame and cause a short to the wheel base- shutting off the wheel. He insolated the base to his mounting plate with a thin cardboard gasket and rubber washers on the mounting bolts. He never did trace out that ground problem, might have been from his sound system.
IIRC there was a large thread (100+pages) at GT Planet . net regarding the Elite & CSW V1. Mods, repairs and HP motor swaps. It may be worth skimming through for pics of the base in disassembly.
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/fanatec-csw-csr-elite-modders-thread-update-february-2014.274631/
@CarDr, you seem to know abit about these wheels.
I checked that forum but nothing about my problem but you might know.
So I ask.. what might cause me to be losing my wheel tuning presets?
WE have 5 setups and I got to the last one and made a new setting for a new game but then.
Suddenly I lost them all.
All my setting for all 5 presets on the tuning menu are gone.. reset to defaults. :(
Is there a button combo I might have pressed by accident?
Or is this more likely to be a problem with the wheel itself?
I believe if you hold the small tuning button next to the LCD down for 5 or 10 seconds, it will erase all 5 stored setups. Check the manual to confirm.
It could be a sticking button, strange that it only happens on #5. Next time it happens, try storing #5 slot only to see if its related to the chip. Have you tried re-flashing the firmware? If this is happening when the wheel is turned, I would look into the wiring harness exiting the back of the steering shaft. Some of those units had a production run with a sharp unfinished edge. Some users were inserting a plastic liner or harness loom to prevent rub thru on the wiring insulation.
You could try Fanetec support, they will need a video of it acting up. Most likely they would ask to send it in and charge for repairs, if they have any needed parts left. They do have independent repair contractors around the world, so you may not have to send it back to the main office. Or try to contact eKretz on GT Planet if he’s still around. Some of those guys have been buying up used and broken wheels for parts.
Just got my CSL Elite PS4 edition. Updated to the latest firmware and the wheel shuts off after use ranging from 2 - 20 minutes. Happens when using 2 pc and the ps4 itself.
I have an email open with fanatec but looking for things to try that maybe I hadnt thought of.
Does the blue light on the transformer (Power adapter) stay on or turn off when this happens?
yeah good point. I don't know about the new csl elites but the one I have the power connecting to the adapter is a little touchy. If i move it around even a little it can slip out or disconnect
What I found was some of the walls/rooms had outlets that were wired 180* out of phase from the others. I could measure 110V with a volt meter at each outlet, but using an extension cord from one room to another, I could find 220V between the different outlets. I even found this on different walls in the same room. I had to swap some wires in the fuse box to straighten things out.
Testing the different outlets for my sim setup was first on my list.
(BUD- big ugly dish)
When I look down at the power brick after the wheel is shut off, there is the blue light still illuminated.
As far as warranty, Fanatec requires a short video of the item failing. I would set up a camera showing the wheel in action, power button and power brick lamp if possible.
edit; also take note of room temp if they need to duplicate the problem in repair shop.