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If thats the case, I really don't think its worth trying to use them, they won't give the right experience for sim-racing.
You can buy a Thrustmaster FFB wheel with pedals for around £150 or less new- but I would totally get proper pedals for sim racing IMO.
It'll work better if you can physically lock the rudder axis... Then it'll feel like a gokart set up.
MarleyMoo I'd forgotten about the toe brakes, I wasn't sure if those were analog or digital but analog makes more sense. The pedals I have don't have toe brakes so I forget about that. If those do each map as a separate axis you're right it should be easy enough to use those two axis rather than the main rudder axis.
which means: applying brake independently from the throttle with your left foot. Sometimes even simultaneously as in e.g. dirt-surface rally-racing.
((Well, the answer for the more experienced drivers would be obviously "yes". But for beginners and intermediate, let's say it is not a common thing to do.))
If that is what interests you, then a proper pedal-unit makes sense plus some way to secure it to your seat/rig so it won't move on it's own.
edit: just read the whole thing:
there is a setting called "combined pedals" which essantially merges throttle&brake into one axxis. Some pre-historic (by today's standards) games used a combined pedal-axxis for analogue throttle&brake-input. I remember playing the original TNFS with a Joystick back then. Older Logitech wheels had the driver-setting of merging the foot-pedal axxis, as well. Because the apps/games were coded that way and did not allow seperate for inputs. Heck, I believe even my Thrustmaster driver today offers this.
Although most current hard-core sims probably don't support a combined axxis natively, I am sure there will be software to emulate the behaviour of one and offer it up as a seperate input-device, essentially mimiking what many of today's road-cars call brake-force-override (as soon as you touch the brake-pedal, it's input overrides any throttle-position and zeroes out the throttle) - although with one physical axxis this state doesn't really exist.
As for left foot braking as you likely know on the street I'd virtually never suggest that - when gaming it's not nearly as big a deal as the game is far more forgiving than a real car. I've been racing for about 10 years now, currently run in a Lotus Exige TTU/TT1 racecar. It's a manual race gearbox so I heel toe but I left foot brake in it when I need to brake but don't need to downshift. Took me about 6 months of street driving to get the sensitivity in my left foot to be as good as my right, it's actually easier on the track as usually when I left foot brake I'm using near full force and don't have to modulate fine detail like on the street. As such I always left foot brake when I sim race - and in fact I always wear my SFI racing shoes as it just feels so odd to only wear socks. If you're curious at all here's a lap at my local track with multiple camera angles, including my feet so you can see heel-toe and left foot braking.
HEADPHONE WARNING - VERY LOUD
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9neCzTQozY
Anyway thanks for the input guys, seems he'll be all set soon.
Always great to see real-world sportsmen finding their way into the sim-community! I am just a sim-potatoe unfortunately.
Don't really mind the apparent sound-clipping as I am a "I wanna be able to still hear stuff should I ever turn 70" kind of guy, meaning I like my car's exhausts quiet and I use sterero-monitors (desktop-speakers) on low/moderate volume levels :D ((less noise, more sound))
Greetings from Germany!
PS.:
if that T300 you mentioned does not come with pedals, while the optional plastic T3PA that I use currently are quite usable, modulation on soft-braking (with the rubber cone installed) isn't really where I would like to see it. Thinking about getting the Fanatec CSL pedal kit with the additional 90Kg load-cell brake-pedal (~€210 plus shipping though). Stand-alone usb on those pedals, so it will work in proper sims like A.C. -- some lesser games (e.g. console-ports like the abysmal SLRE) might struggle, though.
As for the in-game Exige handling like mine - NO, NOT EVEN CLOSE.
Note: I could be confused with Forza, I'll check and report back. I recall the in-game car being VERY twitchy and tail happy. My car is just a *bit* modified, 385whp at 1900lbs :-). Even with that huge power it's very impressive how planted my car is, it lives to grip. On semi-slick I can get 1.7G sustainable in a fast sweeper.
Oh and sim racers rock, no stupid "get a reall car" trolling here. I've been instrcuting racing for about 7 years, my two best types: women and gamers. In that order (best, not fastest). Sim racers understand many of the basic terms at least, they don't have a blank stare when I say "apex". The hardest students - those who think they're great - and aren't. At all. If you hear me compliment someone's car color, yeah.....
Oh, as for the T300 setup it did come with the slightly upgraded pro ones with clutch. I have to say I love my V2 pedals with the inversion kit, have you seen the monstrosity they have for $500??? Pictures or details of your setup? So far game compatibility hasn't been an issue. Save for F1 2015, didn't allow separate USB devices for wheel and pedals. I do use a number of joystick/input device apps to remap things at times, there are details in the rather long guide I linked above. If you use "alternate" controllers there are a few gems on there. It can be hard to manage stick, throttle, handbrake, shifter, dash/button-box, flight pedals, racing pedals, ButtKicker USB audio card, Motion Platform, LED displays, etc. etc. etc. When playing Elite I have 7 different apps running for various things ;-)
Anyway sorry for the ramble, fun chat for sure.