What is up with brake sensitivity?

[r0llinlacs]

It's so harsh! Just a little blip on the input is like slamming the brakes! No more than 10% input and the car is nosediving, with the other 90% of the input not doing much more.

Doesn't matter if it's controller or my G27 wheel. I tried adjusting the brake sensitivity, but it just reduces total braking power, wth?? That's not the purpose of the brake sensitivity setting!?

Anybody else having this issue??

[spiralyguy]

Eh, breaking is pretty sensitive with my LG29, but not unmanageable. It's certainly more sensitive than say, ACC.

[Voodoochile]

Originally posted by T10Yaachts:

Some of the fastest drivers use trigger stops on elite controllers for this, set at around 70% actuation iirc. I remember one esport event when a driver brought a homebrew version: A regular controller with a screw driven into its side panel which had the effect of stopping the trigger at the perfect point in its path.

The issue here is not the top-end of the brakes until lock-up. You can even build muscle memory for that.
The issue is that the brakes are way too strong on the low-end.
Using 10% brake dives the front down as if we are slamming them.
It seems like the brake force curve is inverted compared to the brake input.

You press the brake at 20% and the car already applies 60% brake force and at 70% input you are reaching the 100% force. On PC I am mitigating this with either Steam built-in software or 3rd party to add a veeeeery relaxed brake curve but it's not how it's supposed to work IRL.

It could be certain cars, or certain combinations of tires&brakes that make this more prominent. It might also be that some suspensions are way too soft by default? It makes trail breaking a bit more difficult than it should be, because applying even 10% brake moves the whole weight of the car to the front and if your brake balance is not perfectly dialed in you either understeer massively or loose the rear. This shouldn't be happening if you just "rest your foot" on the brake to loose a few kph/mph...

[Ms. E Girl]

definitely skill issue, for faster cars, i actually have to increase break pressure as they're too weak at high speed high downforce. and at lower speeds of course i wouldnt full 100% break because that would lock my wheels.

[Voodoochile]

Originally posted by Ms. E Girl:

definitely skill issue, for faster cars, i actually have to increase break pressure as they're too weak at high speed high downforce. and at lower speeds of course i wouldnt full 100% break because that would lock my wheels.

Definitely a skill issue if you have to increase brake pressure above 100%. Probably playing with assisted brakes or at least ABS on. Or you have some weird pedals that hit the bottom of their travel at 30% of the sensor.

[Ms. E Girl]

Originally posted by Voodoochile:

Originally posted by Ms. E Girl:

definitely skill issue, for faster cars, i actually have to increase break pressure as they're too weak at high speed high downforce. and at lower speeds of course i wouldnt full 100% break because that would lock my wheels.

Definitely a skill issue if you have to increase brake pressure above 100%. Probably playing with assisted brakes or at least ABS on. Or you have some weird pedals that hit the bottom of their travel at 30% of the sensor.

no break assist or abs. using elite controller and its working in order. not like ive increased it by that much only up to 110-120% depending on break performance at any pi. fyi this is for straight line breaking, of course the wheels are going lock if i 100% during a turn. and again comes down to knowing your setup and how much to press at different moments. in some cars i have to lower break pressure because there isnt enough grip.

having rumble in triggers gives me the feedback for when i need to ease the break a bit.

not sure how you gathered increased breaking force is equal to skill issue lmao.

[Voodoochile]

Originally posted by Ms. E Girl:

Originally posted by Voodoochile:

Definitely a skill issue if you have to increase brake pressure above 100%. Probably playing with assisted brakes or at least ABS on. Or you have some weird pedals that hit the bottom of their travel at 30% of the sensor.

no break assist or abs. using elite controller and its working in order. not like ive increased it by that much only up to 110-120% depending on break performance at any pi. fyi this is for straight line breaking, of course the wheels are going lock if i 100% during a turn. and again comes down to knowing your setup and how much to press at different moments. in some cars i have to lower break pressure because there isnt enough grip.

having rumble in triggers gives me the feedback for when i need to ease the break a bit.

not sure how you gathered increased breaking force is equal to skill issue lmao.

Which car you have to increase the pressure on? My issue is not with the lock-ups anyways. You can build muscle memory for that. The Issue is at the lower end of the inputs. The range of input for feathering the brakes is too small. Even 15% of input is already diving the front suspension on most cars.

Edit: but in general this is way too small complaint at the moment. The overall handing of the cars is pretty dialed in on controller at least. It's something that can be looked at some point is all I am saying.

[bgrabow]

I had this exactly problem on my G29. It only took 30-40% brake application before I was in ABS and plowing forward unable to steer.

The problem seems to be completely gone with ABS set to Off. I can now press my brake pedal to 80-90% pressure on initial application before I lock up (to be expected) and I have full range of modulation back to pedal release. Trail braking is infinitely easier now. I suppose I risk locking up in panic situations with ABS off, but for me activating ABS before felt just as bad as locking up (increased stopping distances and inability to steer with ABS activated) so ABS off is better, especially since I can use the full pedal range now and I'm not limited to the first 30%.