安装 Steam
登录
|
语言
繁體中文（繁体中文）
日本語（日语）
한국어（韩语）
ไทย（泰语）
български（保加利亚语）
Čeština（捷克语）
Dansk（丹麦语）
Deutsch（德语）
English（英语）
Español-España（西班牙语 - 西班牙）
Español - Latinoamérica（西班牙语 - 拉丁美洲）
Ελληνικά（希腊语）
Français（法语）
Italiano（意大利语）
Bahasa Indonesia（印度尼西亚语）
Magyar（匈牙利语）
Nederlands（荷兰语）
Norsk（挪威语）
Polski（波兰语）
Português（葡萄牙语 - 葡萄牙）
Português-Brasil（葡萄牙语 - 巴西）
Română（罗马尼亚语）
Русский（俄语）
Suomi（芬兰语）
Svenska（瑞典语）
Türkçe（土耳其语）
Tiếng Việt（越南语）
Українська（乌克兰语）
报告翻译问题
讨论规则及指引
举报此帖
If you go at max speed, start going uphill and start losing speed, first throttle up, then reverser up. You shouldn't probably touch brakes if they are in the running position, otherwise you'd lose a lot of steam.
The very first thing I'd suggest is completely releasing your brakes. You're correct to keep them most of the time keep in the running position (i.e. on on a low % setting) to keep some pressure in the brake system for fast hard braking applications. But you're unlikey to need rapid hard brake application going up steep inclines, so i'ts not necessary in such situations. And can have a real adverse effect on your speed, helping cause you to slow down overall, especially as soon as a big hill really kicks-in. Of course as soon as the gradient eases up a bit (and begins to flatten) you can soon re-apply the brakes to the running setting. But I think you'll find making this adjustment to full release helps in itself. And do this before you start on the steep inclines; you need all the momentum you can get at the bottom of the hill.
I'm assuming you've got automatic fireman on. If not you really might be advised to if you're for mow struggling driving these steam 'beasts'. But if you're determined to do it yourself, you really need to make sure you've got a very good fire (high percentage) burning to keep up the steam, a lot of pressure neeeded for these steep inclines.
Then it's "just" a matter of finding the 'sweet spot' between the regulator and reverser! A tricky knack involved, but the real key. Something that will help is keeping a close eye on the boiler pressure. Often the sweet spot will be just before (or after) the boiler pressure flicks into the red. For short spells up-hill letting out a bit more steam, and losing some pressure is fine, as long as you have a good fire raging. So that's where you might be surprised in the use of a higher regulator setting than you're currently trying.
Often I find lowering the reverser to say 30-40% sometimes more rarely keeping it higher at about 50 (depends on the loco and situation), and increasing the regulator to 80-90 for hills will help. And having a higher settiing on the regulator sholdn't be an isssue if you have a good fire (obviously as long as the drop in boiler pressure isn't massive, being in the red itself is nothing to worry about for short hard push durations). Again just tweak the sliders in both directions subtely continually watching for encouraging signs, that the loco maight want to increase speed (and it will be only the smalllest of increases), but once you've found this very slight improvement in correct speed change direction; then left in these positions the loco should gradually build momentum and sowly but surely gain speed; before requiring another gentle tweak, usually backing off on the regulator at this point, moving it to a lower slider setting.
Experimentation is the key here; if you start losing speed don't be fearful of trying another subtle tweak and another until you see some encouraging signs of the loco flickering into 'life'. This is why it is much better to have fun expeimenting on a good old Standard Scenario (rather than Career Scenario) when the pressure is off. So if you slow down a bit for a while you don' t have to worry about the ticking clock of the timetable, and the wretched scoring (or loss of points!) :) Just repeatedly have a go at one stubborn steep hill on one route, until you've found the combo slider settings that work for you.
But bascially in summary: brakes off (fully), good fire, and willingness to subtley experiment with various regulator/reverser combinations is the way to go! With reverser probably lower than you're currently trying, and regulator on a higher setting than you're using just now. I really hope this helps you. But don't ever expect drastic high speeds on very long steep inclines. You're doing very well if on a long steep climb (of say 1 in 50) if you manage to keep the average Black 5 kettle (or equivalent) with a fair load, at 22-25mph. So keep that in mind; they always did struggle for long steep hauls in real life.
Good luck, and please let me know how you get on. But hopefully the pointers will at least lead to a an overall improvment for you, even if not an instant overnight fix!. All the best.
Then its just finding the sweet spot as has already been said between reg and reverser (steam locos being all different makes this harder) , but both will tend to be moved up (higher percentage) as you climb a hill, very rarely do i go to 100% on reg though, and definately not on reverser, Loco starts to slow down even quicker if you just bang the reverser up to 100%.
So try and keep the pressure in green if you can by managing the Reg and Reverser, as you slow down climbing the hill you will find you can raise reg and reverser more but still keeping it in the green, get in the red for too long and you lose pressure, then you stop. I use manual fireman and adding water into Boiler can make pressure go from in the green to in the red so i may adjust reverser or reg slightly lower to keep it in the green, when i stop adding water into boiler i will probably adjust reg and reverser slightly up again.
Its definately harder than driving a diesel or eleccy loco but great fun when you get the hang of it, always something to do when driving them, rather than just push the throttle and have a nap lol
Hi Budge, well we'll have to agree to disagree about this one! ;) LOL I can only go on what has personally worked very well for me. And we all know text book good driving doesn't always tally with the TS gaming experience. I guess it's just a case of experimenting and finding something that works for yourself personally. Hopefully Scouser will find some help with everyone's collective contributions. Fingers crossed! :)
Practice on some Quick Drives, Woodhead if you have it or Somerset and Dorset have some fearsome hills, always allow also a few seconds for the speed to tell you if you need more reverser or not, you can tell as you get closer to the sweet climbing spot the rate of your deceleration will slow and then stop and you can tap it up a bit more to get a bit of acceleration but be wary of taking the boiler down to its knickers as you won't have any pressure at all and soon grind to a slow halt.
Of course on some hills, it can be just prudent to halt quickly, build pressure and then start from scratch, that happened a lot more than we imagine and some engines were pressed into tasks that were wholly unsuitable for them and crawled up the hills like asthmatic ants on a bad day.
Reverser at 50% while cruising on level ground? Good gosh! No wonder you're coming to a stop so quickly! You're wasting virtually all your steam that you're making and emptying your boiler of all its water! XDD As others have said, when whole train is cruising on level track reverser/cutoff needs to be 15-20%, whichever direction you're running, and no higher except to build speed for a hill and to maintain your speed once on the hill and climbing.
Even when using automatic fireman, you'll need to manually turn on the blower whenever the water injector is on. The blower kicks the fire up into an even more of a raging inferno to compensate for the freshly injected water trying to cool things down. Without the blower, whenever the injector is on, your power level WILL drop. The blower keeps you from losing power while replenishing the boiler's water.
You can also find a great beginners guide to operating steam engines here http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=117906786
Which might of some help to you Scouser888
- Martin