How to slow down a steam engine without stopping?

[valenti_scott]

Hello-
I've been learning how to drive steam engines, and I find that when I need to slow down, because of a reduction in speed limit, the train keeps slowing down, all the way to stopping, so I was wondering if someone has any ideas about what I might be doing wrong? Thanks.
-Scott

[valenti_scott]

Or, if I'm going like about 60 mph, regulator at 100%, reverser around 18%, brakes running, and I want to slow down to 50, how do you recommend doing this?

[cathyhowat]

Close the regulator, depending on how far you have to go before you need to get to 50, and the grade, that might be enough, if not a gentle brake application.

[valenti_scott]

It seems like I get the best results when I apply small changes to the regulator or reverser. It seems like, if I reduce the regulator to zero, and apply brakes, the train will be stopping. I don't know that much about how steam engines work.

[OldAlaskaGuy]

You do not have to apply the brakes all the way A slight application is enough but you have to remember that it takes time to apply. Apply and back off to hold or lapped.

[valenti_scott]

I played around with it some more, and I think I'm getting better. One thing I noticed is that I had the brakes in a running mode, and the train was slowing down too much. It was better to release the brakes completely. Also, sometimes I had wheel slip and had to apply sand.

[LucaZoneX]

Have you tried the TS Academy? Available since TS2015.

Scenario A01 - Steam Primary Controls

[valenti_scott]

You're too funny, yea, I think the main issue was not releasing the brakes all the way.

[Quietman]

Originally posted by rwaday:

You do not have to apply the brakes all the way A slight application is enough but you have to remember that it takes time to apply. Apply and back off to hold or lapped.

Watch the brake pipe pressure. Make your initial reduction about ten pounds and then hold. Follow it up by small reductions to achieve desired results. Another thing to note after you release yours brakes on a steam locomotive put the brake into running position to save steam.

[Dodgydruid]

It takes practice and more practice to get it right, to get to know your engines braking characteristics and also to "feel" the train.

The speed limit warnings are usually placed at a convenient point for drivers to start their brake applications, its always power off the throttle and then imagine your brake application "bouncing", you apply the brake for half the time you need it then ease it off to full off, then if you need to reapply you can do so and rinse, repeat until you have attained the reduced speed smoothly and you can then reapply power.

Also its worth getting to know the max speed settings of your reverser for say at 50% of regulator, 25% of regulator etc so you can then knock your reverser to the right setting in a lower speed frame and maintain the new speed limit with ease.

On long unfitted trains, you will have to go to the coupling section window and find the brake van on long downward steep hills to apply the brake vans hand brake (usually first) as well, I found out the hard way what the first time "shuffling" or wagon hunting was and got shoved through a red light and scenario failure lol If you drive the Holybourne Tanks scenario on PDL you will feel the "force" indeed of a lot of tankers making their presence felt behind you hehe In real life that rebounding has caused engines to be off railed and couplings to snap.

[Chicken Balti]

Originally posted by Dodgydruid:

It takes practice and more practice to get it right, to get to know your engines braking characteristics and also to "feel" the train.

The speed limit warnings are usually placed at a convenient point for drivers to start their brake applications, its always power off the throttle and then imagine your brake application "bouncing", you apply the brake for half the time you need it then ease it off to full off, then if you need to reapply you can do so and rinse, repeat until you have attained the reduced speed smoothly and you can then reapply power.

Also its worth getting to know the max speed settings of your reverser for say at 50% of regulator, 25% of regulator etc so you can then knock your reverser to the right setting in a lower speed frame and maintain the new speed limit with ease.

On long unfitted trains, you will have to go to the coupling section window and find the brake van on long downward steep hills to apply the brake vans hand brake (usually first) as well, I found out the hard way what the first time "shuffling" or wagon hunting was and got shoved through a red light and scenario failure lol If you drive the Holybourne Tanks scenario on PDL you will feel the "force" indeed of a lot of tankers making their presence felt behind you hehe In real life that rebounding has caused engines to be off railed and couplings to snap.

Hello Dodgydruid, with respect, actually, 'bouncing' the brake, 'sea sawing' as we say on the footplate/railway, is exactly what you don't do (even on more modern traction) and one thing I and other steam driver instructors in real life, instruct drivers not to do. The result of doing that in real life is very little train control as your train brake blocks are constantly moving away from your wheels and then back in contact, then away again, then back in contact and so on constantly. Passenger comfort as well as full train control is not present with sea sawing the brake.
Making full use of your 'lap' postion (not always present in TS) and 'running' position is the correct way to brake along with making your 'gradual' brake application 'well in advance' of where you require your train to slow down or stop (not leaving braking to the last minute as many do).
Things are further complicated when driving ex-GWR steam engines fitted with Vacuum Pumps that require further braking instructions (not explained properly in TS).
Speed indication warning boards are simply that, they are not there to tell a driver when to start making a brake application, That will depend on driver gained experience and route knowledge over the years, plus weight and how long his train is. Route knowledge and experience is the key important factor to remember, not available to TS users driving over a new route at first.
The regulator/reverser settings and their affect on your train behind, constantly change according to steam chest and boiler pressure at the time plus weight of train and gradiant, it is not possible to state one particular 'combination' will result in a 'set speed', the combinations available are 'unlimited' for the above reasons.
On the real railways years ago, driving 'unfitted' brake trains was rather a challange that we all enjoyed really and made 'proper drivers' in our minds!
Regards.

[Dodgydruid]

I was speaking on terms of the game rather than the real thing as I am only limited in what I have driven in real life so can't speak as an expert like yourself or Glenn lol

I cannot remember now where I actually read that "advice" I gave but it seems to work for me driving hudless in steam, using the brake to "trim" the speed with no power applied and also allowing for the time the brakes take to let off.

As for my combinations, of course the environment would change with different setups but a "ball park" could be gleaned from the difference running light as to running with 40 coal wagons behind as to what setting a reverser could go to, to maintain a good speed rather than putting it up too high or too low. We don't get to "feel" the train as in real life, feel the resistance on the engine or the draw behind, that inertia when you hit a steep climb which you could describe as a real driver but something that can't really be simulated.

Sadly my own words probably didn't translate too well either, ended up with this rotten "spring flu" rubbish and its made me head feel even worse than normal so my bad and apologies to all.

[Chicken Balti]

Originally posted by Dodgydruid:

I was speaking on terms of the game rather than the real thing as I am only limited in what I have driven in real life so can't speak as an expert like yourself or Glenn lol

I cannot remember now where I actually read that "advice" I gave but it seems to work for me driving hudless in steam, using the brake to "trim" the speed with no power applied and also allowing for the time the brakes take to let off.

As for my combinations, of course the environment would change with different setups but a "ball park" could be gleaned from the difference running light as to running with 40 coal wagons behind as to what setting a reverser could go to, to maintain a good speed rather than putting it up too high or too low. We don't get to "feel" the train as in real life, feel the resistance on the engine or the draw behind, that inertia when you hit a steep climb which you could describe as a real driver but something that can't really be simulated.

Sadly my own words probably didn't translate too well either, ended up with this rotten "spring flu" rubbish and its made me head feel even worse than normal so my bad and apologies to all.

Hello again, I think the problem poor TS users have to sort through, is multiple guides/manuals all telling the TS driver/user there own way of driving that worked for them (if that advice is correct in real life, is not considered or known). That is understandable though.
TS2016 manuals are also rather lacking in correct information on some subjects, as is apparant some detail has been researched by the writers, but interpretated incorrectly, but none the less accepted by TS2016 users as 'must be correct as TS016 wrote it'. That again is understandable.
Multiple unlimited combinations available of regulator/reverser settings could never be relied on to provide 'set speeds' for the reasons I tried to explain, however, experience gained over time playing TS will help the player very much eventually and provide 'approximate' settings to use as those route gradiant/speed requirements unfold in front of the driver.
Best.

[Dodgydruid]

I found a good rule of thumb in starting a scenario would be to test the reg and reverser combo on the flat just to get the "feel" so to speak, I know I am going to get about 15ish at most at full on forward reverser at a reasonable power application and I can usually work out a working curve to bring the speed up smoothly whilst keeping her in the green and nice takeoff as well.

Once I have that "feel", I know that I can go back to the same power/reverser settings I remembered from at 30mph which is what I should have said above thru the fug of flu earlier but of course a little more with a climb and a little less and a little brake on a drop which was how I mastered the WLoS runs as I tried to drive the steam engines like a car and not a train when I first started and failed miserably too :P

I do still on occasion QD my JT clan on advanced just to remind meself the fun of welding the tyres to the railheads, that is still quite enjoyable to behold and I should video it one day :D