Auto fireman and how to drive Steam

[Nippur]

Hello. I just got into the Steam locos, and gotta say that it feels like a point of no return .
I'm using the auto fireman while I learn the basics, I can complete the scenarios without a problem for now.
What I want to know is, besides regulator, reverser, brakes, cyllinder ♥♥♥♥ and small ejector. What else should or can I use while auto firmean is enabled?

EDIT: There are several comments about how to drive steam, if you are looking for information and knowledge about Steam locos and how to drive, keep reading.

[Daytona]

I love steamers too :)

I don't often use auto-fireman, but sander and blower.

I find it easier to manage pressure using the stats from the F5 key (and using the keyboard), swapping to F3 for route info. F4 seems incompatible with F5 - but perhaps that's without auto-fireman.

[Darloman]

Steamers are my favourite too. I also use F5 sometimes with occasional glances at F3 for route confirmation, but I prefer to have no hud at all and drive by just using the controls and by watching the dials, so I prefer advanced locos and also like to learn the routes.

I don't use the F4 hud at all, but it is fine for basic driving.

I do use the auto fireman quite often when I just want to relax and concentrate on the driving, but the problem is that the standard DTG one is unintellingent and, for example, is inclined to begin long sessions of water injection which cools down the boiler just when you want maximum steam pressure for e.g. a hill climb. For that reason it is best to learn how to fire and to operate the injectors yourself. The Just Trains locos' auto fireman is much superior to the DTG one, but it isn't perfect.

Some example techniques to practice follow, particularly if you want to drive advanced locos:

Balancing steam use via reverser and regulator for maximum efficiency without depleting steam pressure is of course very much a basic of steam loco operation but it requires practice at first. However no two steam locos are the same, so what balances works for one aren't necessarily going to work for another. However in general, use higher cutoff percentages on starting and when slow climbing under load and use relatively low percentages when running. Excessive use of higher percentages will quickly exhaust the steam pressure. Keep an eye on the pressure dials or the F5 readings (depending on which you are using).

One thing I suggest practicing is how and when to use the large ejector together with the small ejector and how to balance their use in situations where, for example, you need to brake for a signal or speed restriction and then bleed off the brake quickly so you can get up to speed again, combined with how to brake in short bursts to slow the train down without completely exhausting the vacuum and accidentally coming to a dead stop when you don't need to. The latter is a common beginner's mistake. Unfortunately some simpler non-advanced locos lack a working large ejector, though you can still practice intermittent braking. If the cab controls don't operate, check the manual to see whether you can use key controls.

The usual approach on starting (once initial reverser cutoff is set and the cylinder ♥♥♥♥♥ are opened) is to ensure the loco brake is applied, then release the train brake and open both ejectors until there is 21 inches of vacuum showing on the dial or f5. Close the large ejector but leave the small ejector open or partially open to maintain the vacuum. You can then release the loco brake, apply steam via the regulator (carefully to avoid wheel slippage) and get under way. Close the cylinder ♥♥♥♥♥ after a few wheel revolutions and begin winding back the reverser cutoff percentage as you pick up speed.

If facing up a hill when starting, apply a little regulator to stop running backwards before releasing the loco brake.

When required to brake, partially apply and release the train brake in short bursts in order to maintain at least a partial vacuum and allow some recovery between braking. Temporarily open the large ejector to help you to restore the vacuum and quickly get under way again.

[trev123]

If not already mentioned always have the blower on and the dampers open to increase airflow through the fire to produce more heat. Most of DTGs steamers are not very good to drive as they are too simple. Just Trains have some good ones with both simple and advanced driving modes. Bossman games, Vulcan productions and a few others make good steam locos some of which are sold on Steam under Train Simulator 2019.

[Nippur]

Thank you, those comments are really helpful. I know how to move the train, I don't have problems reducing speed or stopping at stations in the correct place, I think I know how to effectively use the ejectors.
I tried some advanced locos without fireman, specially because it felt like the auto fireman wasn't working well, but I had a hard time figuring out how to keep generating steam in some situations.

For example, I have the JT Clan Class 6
https://store.steampowered.com/app/500241/Train_Simulator_BR_Standard_Class_6_Clan_Class_Steam_Loco_AddOn/

I can move it, get some speed but once I reach around 50mph the steam available isn't enough and struggle to generate more or recover the steam used. I tried to understand how the Injectors, blower and dampers work but couldn't. If someone can explain me that or share some good link it would be great.
The tutorials I found wasn't very detailed about it. Most of the tutorials are about the basics, regulator, reverser and brakes.

[trev123]

Learning to drive a steam loco properly takes ages it just doesn't happen overnight. I have been using TS for about 10 years and took me about 5 or 6 years to drive a steam loco on TS properly. My method is to try and find at what percentage the boiler lets off steam via the safety valve and at what percentage it stops and starts building up the pressure again. Try and keep your boiler pressure between those two areas. You can do this by pulling back on the regulator or by pulling the reverser back. Another thing also is to find what is the best amount of coal to have on the fire for maximum heat. Too much you can kill the fire and too little you starve the fire. Some manuals of advanced steamers tell you what percentage to keep the fire mass in percentage on the F5 hud. Read the manuals on these advanced steamers and they tell you a bit about driving them. As you pick up speed you have to slowly bring back the reverser and say at 50mph it could be back to 50 or 40%. This can vary depending on what loco you are driving.

[Darloman]

I have this loco, but I bought it direct from JT more than 5 years ago and not via Steam. It is an old model now and perhaps not quite up to JT's latest steam locos such as the BR standard 7MT Britannia Class and the LNER V2, but it is excellent and better than most DTG offerings. However you should be able to get it beyond 70mph with 8 coaches in tow. It can be tricky to drive though and requires a gentle hand (something the real Clans had a reputation for).

Here is a link to some tips direct from JT. As it says, they need to be read alongside the manual.

https://www.justtrains.net/supportfaq/br-clan-advanced-and-mk-1-coaches/c6b83d1

If using the F5 HUD, be aware that it shows cutoff percentages 5-7% higher than the in-cab readings. However I tend to rely on the in-cab readings as is suggested there. I usually start with a cutoff of around 55-60% and wind it back to around 35% once it gets under way and then work it back to something around an economical 20% once running, depending on topography. I open the regulator gently too, but subject to being able to maintain steam pressure I open it quite wide once fully under way.

Contrary to what it says there, if you have the directly-bought model, you get JT's own auto fireman, which can keep up with the Clan, but if you bought the loco via Steam, you don't get that version. However it is best driven in Advanced mode and feeding via the recommended "little and often" method.

[ash]

jagdOsprey@, I purchased the the JT Clan when it 1st came out and kept losing steam, I looked in the F5 hud and it shows the damper as on but if you look at the damper in cab view it's off. Press the "m" key and you will see the the damper moving clockwise to the "on" position, this sorted the loss of steam for me. Hope this helps.

[Daytona]

Originally posted by ash:

the F5 hud and it shows the damper as on but if you look at the damper in cab view it's off.

Same error with the blower as well apparently.

[trev123]

I have all of JTs UK steam locos and I have found that the LNER V2 is the hardest to drive but have finally mastered it.

[Nippur]

Thanks you guys, after some time trying different things in the Test Track with the Clan Class 6, I managed to mantain and generate enough steam to reach more than 70mph.

When should I turn off the blower and damper?

[trev123]

I usually leave them on all the time. You can try turning them off whenever you like but if you notice the boiler pressure dropping it is maybe best to turn them on again, but again this varies between different locos.

[Darloman]

I also leave them on all the time.

Otherwise, the time to turn them off is when slowing down for a station when you don't need to be generating maximum steam pressure and you can save some coal and water and minimise wasting steam through the safety valves. Turn them on again before departure to build up the pressure again. Also, as in real life, as anyone who has stood next to a steam loco when the safety valves have lifted knows, the noise can be ear-shattering. so it was a good idea to try to minimise that in stations.

[Chicken Balti]

Hello all, a few 'myths' here about blower use and the 'correct' way to use it, plus what its 'main use' is. Many TS manuals have incorrect guidance over its use and main operating reason for being in place on steam engines.
The blower is the only control that keeps the fire in the firebox and not in the cab, at all times, 'regardless' of other steam engine control settings. In real life, turning off the blower when stopped or moving slowly with little blast generating a vacuum in the smokebox, would result in the fire trying to escape the firebox to burn air available in the cab. Not good for the crew and 'very dangerous'. Many have learnt the hard way and suffered bad burns including death in the past.
Despite the regulator being open creating the required vacuum in the smokebox to retain the fire in the firebox, it can be forgotten the blower has been closed when closing the regulator, especially in times of stress or emergency situations requiring a quick stop.
As a real steam driver/fireman/instructor, I can assure you, being in the cab of an ex-GWR Hall where the driver under training had turned off the blower by mistake then closed the regulator, the resulting 9 feet long flames and choking fumes licking around the cab roof and crew was not welcome. We were lucky as many hands went straight to the blower to turn it back on, only singed eyebrows/bib n brace and pride. That driver in training learnt the hard way from his mistake and won't make the same mistake again..
Never ever turn the blower off when in steam, turn it down a bit or up to help raise firebox temps if required, but never off. No 'real harm' will come of ignoring this advice in TS2019, however, for those wanting to drive correctly, only turn the blower off at the end of the service day back on shed, when the fire has been dropped.
Best.

[JohnnyR]

When you drive the JustTrains Clan, Britannia, BR 5MT 4-6-0 or indeed the Dovetail 9F 2-10-0 just bear in mind they are all unrealistically over-powered. For something approximating real-world performance 75% maximum regulator is more than enough. I don't know why they have been made laike that but if you create a scenario based on real schedules and real loads you will find you arrive ridiculously early at your destination if you don't rein them back.

The Clan, which is being discussed here, was equivalent to the Jubilees as far as loco diagramming was concerned although possibly marginally more powerful.

[Chicken Balti]

https://youtu.be/PVIr66K_rUA