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I just enjoy the fact that there's a game that takes a familiar thing (poker, in this case) and adds a bunch of randomness and ridiculousness in a way that keeps my brain amused and occupied. I accept that the odds are stacked against me, and can accept defeat knowing that I did my best. All of the years of playing Dark Souls and its counterparts have paid off.
Also, it's nice to have something else to get into after 1,500 hours of Slay the Spire.
Also remember, there's a challenge where all jokers are banned. Just very high level guaranteed special hands must be able to win on their own, else that challenge would be impossible (not that I've played that challenge myself yet).
If you are interested, here is my 30 mins run I just did: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3yK5wory5o
Sorry if its 360p. Its still in processing the SD and HD.
Things to note:
1) For the first 1-3 ante, priotize using flush/straight/fullhouse because pairs/duo pairs cant hit the score number UNLESS you get an early Joker that gives +mult to those requirements like Jolly/Sly Joker. If you have Misprint, well thats easier
2) Everytime I go to a shop, if there is a Tarot Pack, I go for that first usually. Why? Because there is a chance to get double the money.
3) If you see at 26:34, that runner card is absolutely pointless but because it has a X1.5 multi, I went for it
4) Unreal that banana didnt break for 6 blinds.......
5) Yes, I have the uncommon Joker that removes the final boss perks. Yes its kinda OP, is it fair? Well I got the fibonacci card that trigger at the 3rd round FOR CHIPS. It wasnt for +Mult or a XMult. If anything, I should have gotten other X Mult like Card Sharp (imo is broken af for pair/ 2pair/ highcard because its super easy to obtain a pair rather than a flush per say)
6) Here is a screenshot of Crimson Heart beaten by pairs: https://steamcommunity.com/id/clarity88/screenshot/2447214592137141331/
7) Edit: If you are wondering why I put steel cards at 2,3 ( low ) numbers, its because if I have AKQJ pairs, if the steel cards that are 2,3 are there, I'm hitting a Face card HIGH chip value with a steel card in hand rather than having it on AKQJ and wasting it when I need the chip/steel value if its pairs. Obviously for super high scores, you want it to be repeat + steel on the AKQJ
8) Edit: Also sometimes when I throw pairs, I throw in 1-2 cards along. Technically, I should be throwing 3 cards since I have the Joker that +20 mult for 3 or less cards but I throw more sometimes to get rid of cards and cycle it
Hope this helps. Do remember that you have to rearrange your jokers.
Also I agree with Goblin. It isnt necessary to do XYZ but its easier to win. Ofc this setup will not help getting high scores. I also dont think it helps teaching you about sync too but yea .
There might just be some fundamental aspect of play that you're not grasping?
1. Interest goes a long way. I always try to keep myself at increments of $5 in the first two Ante and by Ante 3, I never let my money drop below $25. This ensures I'm seeing +$5 from each Blind, but it also means Hermit is always a $20 payout. When you're making $11+ every Blind, it suddenly becomes easier to afford all those packs, jokers, and even flex rerolling into more good stuff. If you stay broke all the time, you'll have less money across your whole run and won't be able to snowball the same way.
2. Early game, the best possible Jokers are ones that add +Multi. Jokers like Gros Michel and Mystic Summit are among the best to pull early on as the ensure that basically any 5 card scoring hand (Straights, Flushes, Full House) will win the whole Blind. These Jokers can usually carry you through Ante 3 or even 4. You can sort-of softball this with +4 Multi enhanced cards in your deck if you happen to pull the Tarot for that, so don't overlook it. Finally, there's a Joker for each suit that gives +4 Mult for cards of that suit, meaning it's really easy to just get +20 Mult on all flushes of the given suit.
3. The next big thing is having Jokers with xMulti. The more the better. You can softball this with the x1.5 Multi that Steel Cards afford. Generally, you want xMulti cards that do not come with stipulations that you can't play around. This makes Jokers like Ramen, an early Joker Stencil, Steel, Constellation, Cavendish, Vampire, and Hologram all very powerful to have. In combination with a good +Multi joker or enough of an upgraded hand type through Tarot, even just one of these can carry you to Ante 6 or further.
Now, generally, you want to fill all your joker slots as quick as possible. After that, sell the ones that are doing the least for you as you replace them with stronger Jokers.
Outside of that, though, the only other thing I can think of is to trend towards never skipping Blinds. It's almost always higher value to earn the victory money and see the shop than it is to take the tag. The only exceptions I have for this are :
1. If I see the $15 for boss blind within Ante 1, as this is worth a shop skip at that point
2. Early on if I see the Tag that makes the whole next shop free
3. Early on if I see a +10 Multi (Holographic) Joker tag before I have a good +Multi setup
4. If I see a x1.5 Multi (Polychrome) Joker, any time I could use more xMulti Jokers
5. At nearly any point in the game if I see a Negative Joker tag.
Otherwise, you might want to focus on unlocking other decks? The starting deck (+1 discard) might just be the worst deck out of all the options. Finding a deck that suits your play style can go a long way.
That's really all there is to the game. If you just follow what I'd listed here, you'll win most games. Yes, there will be some where the Jokers you want won't show up, but if you keep your strategy flexible, you can still get pretty far regardless. There's more nuanced advice I could give about maximizing use of discards / hands played, shooting to win in one hand on most Blinds, or play for Endless or higher Stakes (though that would assume you're already comfortably winning enough to want to go further).
I will say that I hardly ever take or keep +Chip Jokers. Most are either too narrow (want you to play a specific hand type / rank of card) or are a bit too slow (Hiker's great but I always end up selling it). The few notable exceptions are Bull (great on a high chip run), Banner (if I have a lot of discards thanks to other effects), Wee Joker & Castle (if I get it within the first 3 Ante), Arrowhead (if I'm playing an all-Spades Flush deck), and Stuntman. A good rule of thumb with Chips is that, unless you're getting more than your hand is worth in Chips already (basically x2 Multi value or better) then the Chip Joker probably isn't worth it. There are some very specific setups in which having higher Chip value pays off more, but in most cases, you're better off just avoiding most Chip-focused Jokers aside from the ones I listed earlier.
That's how my runs mostly end.
Or refund the thousands of people who have been sold a piece of ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ that they were told was going to be videopoker but turned out to be an unplayable mess.
My 55 hours would never qualify for refunding even if I wanted to. I think $15 or so for a slay-like that has a poker theme is just fine even if I got 10 hours out of it. You thought this was video poker?? WHO TOLD YOU THIS? lol.
Also the push your luck aspect comes more to bear since probably players are pushing their luck more to go for more powerful runs rather than the safer strats that more regularly make it to 8 (but not much further).
Don't really think there's a solution to this, the game always going to be underpinned by variance and if you're all in on some sweet build you're more exposed to it.
Also as with all card games you can't judge things on singular runs or even several runs, you could be playing more or less correctly and bust out before ante 8, it happens to everyone.
If you've played less than two hours, which assumedly you have since the game is 'unplayable' then go to Steam support and get your refund... I don't think it takes anywhere near as long as that to discover that the game isn't what you expected.
I actually think there's a lot of solutions to the variance.
The first and easiest is just tweaking numbers; shop and reroll prices, played hand chip totals, blind scores, and blind payouts. Since a lot of higher difficulty runs are largely influenced by both the early rounds and Joker shop RNG, making them less of a challenge early on gives people more of a chance to get a foothold for the mid game which i think is a large part of the frustration.
An option to "banish" jokers from the shop would be nice too. Say, spending 10 dollars to make sure a specific Joker never shows up in the shop again so you have more opportunities to roll for a Joker that actually synergizes with a build. I can't tell you how many times i've run the deck with no face cards just to get loads of face card Jokers in the shop.
There's lots of ways to make the game more skill based and less RNG dictated that still keep it challenging.
I do agree there's ways of managing the variance - and that's our job as players! - but I feel like most of these things are themselves still going to be affected by what the seed throws at you in a specific order. For example you might never get a combo that generates ludicrous wealth or cheap shop cards or rerolls. But I agree that gaming the shop (or generating cards to sell) is pretty powerful and can almost go infinite in some cases.
But yes ability to remove jokers from the pool would be great, particularly when you're rerolling a lot, seeing the same brick jokers appear is frustrating and run ending in some cases. I wish stuff like Ceremonial Knife or the tarot/s that destroy jokers would permanently remove the card from the pool. That seems fair given the setup cost. Or some new voucher with limited uses to remove some jokers.
Thinning out the joker pool as an always-on ability though would be very powerful so not sure $10 would be high enough, maybe $50 or something? (but then it only becomes doable for the money farming builds which actively want to thin the pool, so eh, hard to balance).
Also don't sleep on hand size, that stat makes your ability to maximise a lot more potent. If you need a 5 card hand, have 4, and can only discard 3 you're a lot less likely to get what you need than if you can discard 5. That's why a lot of powerful options cost hand size, they're high risk high reward. That's why smaller hand plays are preferred on gold stake, which in turn is why people who claims flushes are OP fail so often.
I've mostly enjoyed the time but the game definitely has burned me out quicker than I thought it would.