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To answer your question:
MGE XE
https://www.nexusmods.com/morrowind/mods/41102
Gives you a nice resolution and you can add things like bigger draw distance and enable shaders, etc., through this.
Enhanced Textures
https://www.nexusmods.com/morrowind/mods/46221
Vanilla looking textures, except in higher resolution. It has none of those horrendous textures that really stand out because they look weird or overly saturated. Or maybe they look ugly because they clearly don't belong to this game's art style.
Code Patch
https://www.nexusmods.com/morrowind/mods/19510
A must. Lots of useful fixes and optional balancing options.
https://www.nexusmods.com/morrowind/mods/45096
Get this too.
https://www.nexusmods.com/morrowind/mods/39605
Makes torches and illusion spells useful.
https://www.nexusmods.com/morrowind/mods/43140
Useful.
I'd say start with these and peruse some other mods for a little while. This, in my informed opinion, is the recommended setup. Maybe I forgot a few useful tweaks. Check the modding guides here on steam as they tend to have a good amount of quality of life mod recommendations. I'd avoid going for that overly saturated bloom and HDR to the gills look. It's ugly and disgusting. Completely butchers the original aesthetics of Morrowind. Whatever you do just remember this is a game from 2002. I'd compare slapping too many graphics mods that try too hard to look like a game from 2020 to applying 5 kilograms of makeup on an older woman. It just doesn't work. It has it's age. Respect whatever limitations this game has and focus more on what you already have in the game. Arguably it's graphically fine out of the box and only needs quality of life updates that fix lots of ♥♥♥♥ Bethesda couldn't due to time constraints and such.
https://www.nexusmods.com/morrowind/mods/46071
https://www.nexusmods.com/morrowind/mods/44808
This is required by lots of mods. I'm quoting this page just so you are aware of the requirements for it.
https://mwse.readthedocs.io/en/latest/installation.html
When you configure Morrowind code patch check the box "Better typography" under the interface changes menu. This is for your own sanity and eyes. Mix with:
https://www.nexusmods.com/morrowind/mods/36873
All very helpful. I had just never heard of Nexus. I do very little customized modding unless it's to fix old game bugs and modernize dated games with discretion. The font improvement I found on my own when exploring the Enhancement project and it's much appreciated. Got a couple hours in tonight. Certainly different from Oblivion and Skyrim for sure but I'm starting to get the hang of Morrowind's approach. It's still surprisingly beautiful and I'm excited to get lost in it. Thanks for the pointers. Appreciate your time. I'll look at each of these too.
https://github.com/Sigourn/morrowind-improved/blob/master/mendedmw.md
That's one of the more straightforward "it just works" guides for people new to modding in my experience that is also current for 2020.