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It's the only stable in rivendell if you've been there, for the horse travel.
https://lotro-wiki.com/index.php/Monster_Play
True, there is a stable at the Souh Bree gate that will take you to the Ettenmoors, and an NPC next to the stable with a quest for the Ettenmoors - accept the quest before you take the stable ride.
You can also play as a monster if you just select “Monster Play” at the character selection screen.
Free and Premium players can purchase a temporary Ettenmoors pass from the Stable-masters using (20 Mithril Coin ) of the Mithril Coin currency to purchase 6 hours of PVMP playtime.
You can get temporary unlocks from the store to play Freep PvP IIRC.
As VIP you can get access to PvP at various NPCs. I don't know if you get scaled to level, but you're probably going to want to be max level before you try PvP.
Other than that, for monster play you select 'Monster play' from the character select screen, and you can play the creep side (even as non-VIP)
“Free and Premium players can purchase a temporary Ettenmoors pass from the Stable-masters (below) using 20 of the Mithril Coin-icon.png Mithril Coin currency to purchase 6 hours of PVMP playtime.
If you wish to take the side of the Free Peoples, your player character must first attain level 20.”
Here is the link:
https://lotro-wiki.com/index.php/Freep
So yes, temporary access only unless VIP.
Unless you are grinding LP like mad to sustain your mithril coin supplies, it is much cheaper to just buy VIP.