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Also, if you didn't grab the bonfire at ground level, go to the left once you get there and hug the wall.
Valley of Drakes is actually the exit. Entrance to Quelag (or Quelaag - dunno) is further into the location (If you have the exit to Valley of Drakes on your right, then straight through the swamp), located on top of the pile of ashes with random tree-like thingies (roots?) growing out of it, and guarded by 3 big guys who are throwing rocks at you (I recommend to approach the entrance from the side to avoid them, because they are, well... ducks).
sry for any engrish
Once you get to ground-level the boss area (and the aforementioned hill) should be straight forward and maybe a bit to your right (it's really big. You'll know it when you see it), while the bonfire is around the wall on your RIGHT if you walk towards the hill where the boss is.
Isn't it a nest of webs?
Important thing is that it's brighter than the rest of the place though.