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You get access to general chat, Journeyman mercs (better than the alternate, although you probably won't notice until level 65 or so).
You get loyalty points and Daybreak cash each month. Nothing to write home about, but meh...
The most important thing is, like I said, the Alternate Advancements. 200/250 is NOTHING once you get to 70+. It's sad. They should bump it up to at least 2500 for F2P folks.
Also, free players are limited to a simpler spell set, known in-game as Rank I. There are Rank II and III spells available to subscribers. Access to Rank II spells can be unlocked per-character in the Marketplace (cash shop) for a one-time purchase.
The F2P model of EQ is basically designed in such a way as to let you level any new character to somewhere in the 65-75 range for free, and then you're going to hit a wall. However, you can then subscribe for one month, concentrate on getting AA points and new spells, and then go back to F2P and level some more, since you keep what you earned while your account is Gold. Rinse and repeat. If you want to jump to endgame content right away, you're going to be maintaining a sub no matter what.
There are also items called "prestige" which cannot be used by F2P players. Many useful items fall into this category but the most obvious are augments (small additions to armor stats). You will find they stunt your player growth almost as effectively as AA limits. especially for tank classes.
A third difference is the ability to choose to play on special servers that have rule sets more like playing in the nostalgic old days.
You can bypass many of these restrictions by playing on the test server. Test is a very small population server that is used to pre-test certain changes to the game so the Devs can take it down for patches and/or maintenece with little or no warning. Occaisionally you get a nasty bug or stability issues but it's rare. Test server players are given most benefits of a gold membership without cost.