Logitech G29 FFB settings to make sharp turns like acute hairpins easier?

[Hawkity]

I'm having a bit of difficulty with sharp turns like the hairpin and such alike where I can't quickly get my G29 wheel to turn quickly due to me fighting over the FFB for control.

I tried messing around with the settings to make my G29 to make it feel lighter, however, I just can't find the right balance between ease of control and not losing too much FFB detail.

[karik_FIN_134]

Make sure u don't have centering spring on in wheel drivers, turn off this setting.
Check that degrees of rotation is 540 (270 both ways) or less, if only using paddles for shifting u want to use less rotation so that u find/reach paddles more easily.

In game ffb settings:
- wheel friction: this is just dead-weight making steering feel heavier to turn and maybe even dampening ffb effects, so try 0 on it (or just very little 1-20)

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These would be my starting settings with Logitech G29/920/923 base.

Wheel drivers (steering wheel):
- sensitivity 50 (default middle position?)
- range 540 degrees (or less like 495, 450, 405, 360 to reach/find paddle-shifters more easily)
- centering spring, untick the box and set this strength 0%
- pedals all 50 / 50 / 50 (default middle positions?)

In game vibration&feedback: (also remember to calibrate)
- self align torque: 80 (adjust 50-100) this setting gives natural wheel centering after turning or countersteer spin over the middle to catch slides in oversteer moments

- wheel friction 0 (adjust 1-20), only dead-weight friction making steering feel heavier to turn, can help with oscillations, but can also dampen ffb effects

- tire friction 40 (adjust 0-100) different type of friction but this happens between tire &road

- suspension 48 (adjust 0-100) gives vibration feedback when suspension (springs+dampers) is getting compressed in different situations

- tire slip 50 (adjust 0-100) gives feedback when there's wheelspin

- engine 0 (adjust 0-100) only vibrations when engine is on limiter, can cover other more important effects like tire slip vibrations

- collision 0 (adjust 0-100) simulates like G-forces to hands in harder impacts, crashes, makes it harder to recover in those situations

other settings:
- Soft Lock: disable this feature(changing degrees by the car) in advanced wheel settings if driving all car with same rotations like 540, then ffb soft lock value doesn't affect anything but leave it 100, 540 is lowest soft lock rotation in game cars so using it can just mess up things

- Wheel Center Force: this feature only centers wheel at start line when countdown starts and after taking reset back to road assuming wheel is like 1turn wrong, does nothing when driving. With 540 rotation u don't really need it so feature can be turned off in ffb-menu and then ffb value for it has no effect

other important stuff:
- Pedals Deadzones (in advanced wheel menu): leave some deadzone like 3-5% to throttle+brake+clutch pedals.
For the brake and clutch so u can rest your feet heavily on pedals without applying anything yet.
For the throttle 5% deadzone so that in Rally1 Hybrid cars to get hybrid boost charge u have to be fully off the throttle under braking and it can easily happen that u slightly apply throttle when braking and then not getting that charge loading.

- Clutch Saturation: if u have H-pattern shifter then also put Clutch saturation like 50% to miss less gear changes. If saturation is 100% clutch has to be always fully pressed before u can move stick and this causes miss-shifts very often.
- Brake Saturation if need: If Brake-pedal is too stiff on that wheelset then also bring Brake saturation down enough so that u reach 100% brake input relatively easily when testing it in that input-menu.

[LimeyPolo]

What's your wheel rotation? Maybe do 360 for wheel rotation - less tough and incessant movements are needed for decisive turns, etc. Hairpins, too, are the most technically challenging - it isn't so surprising they're hard to master. Abusing the handbreak is fine, too, for acute corners (AWD specifically).

[Patches]

You need to set something as the handbrake. It'll get you around lots of corners fast. Adjust the handbrake pressure to your liking.

I'm old so I play on automatic. I have the handbrake mapped to both paddles. Rotation on 540. I can flip around a corner going either way with ease.

Automatics will be full time in racing before long. Several forms of racing have already proved they are faster with like a 6 or 7 speed automatic.

g

oh, I use a G29 most of time even though I have a 2.5v Fanatec.

[DmAnd]

In Ghub set rotation angle to 450, then in game calibrate to same rotation and turn on soft lock

[karik_FIN_134]

Originally posted by DmAnd:

In Ghub set rotation angle to 450, then in game calibrate to same rotation and turn on soft lock

Soft lock won't do anything if degrees of rotation is 450

Soft lock feature = changing degrees of rotation by the car and lowest in any car is 540, then it can be up to 1080 in some older cars.

[8mob8]

more so have to throw it in w/the throttle and weight transfer of the car to get around the hairpins mayB saving the last downshift as you apex.

the ebrake is so hit or miss for me and doesnt treat the car like i would expect.

i run 450degree steering in Ghub, no spring, calibrate in game, with all settings except self aligning torque at 0

[EAX]

All you gota do is to steer heavy and fast to a 90 degree angle and hit the handbrake, while having the proper amount of speed left.

Like the slower your steeringinput, the more stable is your car and the opposite is faster steering, more unstable/oversteer behaviour.

Theres no reason to adjust steering range, because if you steer alot, it tells you that you arent driving good/fast or an awful Manta400.

Other but not so effective methods are skandinavian flicks, steer towards the outside while braking, release brake and steer fast towards inside, thats quite a decent move if you do not have a proper handbrake and just awful keybind possibilities for handbrake binding.

Like as some stated, if you run automatic gearchange the best is a handbrake paddle binding on both sides, because pressing a button while steering is messed up.