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1) You visit it a first time after Eden Prime and there's many missions to collect and complete, but you only have to do the main story.
2) You unlock a few more missions there after you finish a main storyline planet (Therum/Feros/Novaria).
3) Before completing either Virmire as the last planet, or Therum/Feros/Novaria as the last planet after doing Virmire, this should be the point where you make sure to do every Citadel mission you can. After this point, visiting the Citadel becomes more tricky.
4) You end up being forced to the Citadel for a last trip after doing that 4th story planet, and there are 2 unique sidemissions on the Citadel during this period, so make sure you grab them.
And that's it, when it comes to what matters. You don't need to do everything right away. Since I'm kinda 'OCD' about the Citadel though, I visit it after every main story mission and set of space sidequests, check vendors and all locations, and often almost fall asleep from doing so -_-.
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The map itself makes sense over time. There's only really a few areas, spread over the Presidium and Wards.
All of the areas have some sort of sidequests involved with them. You shouldn't worry about how you resolve them
The Tracking Keepers sidequest can bug out. To make sure you get it right, once you accept the quest, run straight (without loading or saving) to the Elcor/Volus Embassy and tag that Keeper! Otherwise it'll keep moving downwards on the map every time you load the game (I think) and be unavailable. This doesn't matter if you intend on finishing the sidemission in one of the other ways you can finish it.
Presidium:
-Embassies (Human, Elcor, Volus, Bar)
-Council Chambers, separate loading
-Barla Von's Office
-Emporium (Shop)
-Consort Chambers
Wards:
-C-Sec Security, separate loading (Shop, Offices, Traffic Control)
-Docking Bay, separate loading
-Wards Access, separate loadings
-Upper Wards (Shop, Med Clinic/Shop)
-Lower Wards (Shop, Chora's Den, Fist's Office)
-Flux (Nightclub, Casino)
Not that bad overall, when you think of it.
Once you visit an area, you can even use the taxi service to fast travel there again.
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Blodh is incorrect. All areas are available to enter on foot.
MS-DOS is pretty much correct. The aim is to explore the place at least 1-2 times fully. Anything after that is up to you though.
The Citadel is the biggest hub in the game (the other ones being in Feros, Novaria, Virmire), so once you get used to it, everywhere else is easy. Except maybe Novaria; that one can have a lot of back and forth happening.