Install Steam
login
|
language
简体中文 (Simplified Chinese)
繁體中文 (Traditional Chinese)
日本語 (Japanese)
한국어 (Korean)
ไทย (Thai)
Български (Bulgarian)
Čeština (Czech)
Dansk (Danish)
Deutsch (German)
Español - España (Spanish - Spain)
Español - Latinoamérica (Spanish - Latin America)
Ελληνικά (Greek)
Français (French)
Italiano (Italian)
Bahasa Indonesia (Indonesian)
Magyar (Hungarian)
Nederlands (Dutch)
Norsk (Norwegian)
Polski (Polish)
Português (Portuguese - Portugal)
Português - Brasil (Portuguese - Brazil)
Română (Romanian)
Русский (Russian)
Suomi (Finnish)
Svenska (Swedish)
Türkçe (Turkish)
Tiếng Việt (Vietnamese)
Українська (Ukrainian)
Report a translation problem
Whether you can get to 4.0GHz depends on the game, but in general it's easier to boost when it's cool.
If you want performance, you need to cool it down and increase power consumption - this is an unchanging formula for desktop PCs and steam deck alike.
That's why I'm dissatisfied with steam decks that can't cool the promised 15W.
What are the downsides?
Well as long as the undervolt is stable, none. You are basically reducing the power envelope for the same performance. But of course you can cause crashes or even brick the system if not careful as you can starve the system of power.
For instance in Helldivers 2 with an undervolt performance clearly gets more stable. There is way less FPS fluctuation and even when franrate goes bellow. 30 FPS it stays more consistent giving it less of a jarring impression. And battery lasts longer. In a demanding game I can get an extra half an hour battery with a -30/-30/-30 undervolt.
If I needed to take any measures myself, I would strengthen the cooling to suppress throttling and find a point where I could stabilize at a higher FPS.
I was just giving an example because I was asked how to squeeze out additional performance.
The reason why the performance per watt is inferior to things like the Rog Ally may be largely due to cooling capacity.
If I have any regrets about choosing the Steam Deck, it's probably this aspect.
And no. The solution is not universally to just use a bigger heatsink. Different devices have different requirements, and for handhelds, lightness and skin temperature are higher on the priority list than min/maxing APU performance or keeping it cooler than actually necessary. So long at the APU is in safe limits (which it is), there's not much benefit to more heatsink when looking at the Deck as a whole and in its intended role.
And again, with undervolting I get BETTER performance. Measurable performance. Because the system has more breeding room. So I am satisfied with the performance. It is better than stock so yeah... And I created this thread because using the option to OVERCLOCK the CPU is not working. I hit the 3.5GHz barrier and it sticks there. I was trying to get 4GHz for a 10% boost in performance or thereabouts.
Manually allowing a CPU clock higher than 3.5 ghz when the GPU clock is changed requires a driver modification with the new CPU clock set after a script reinstall, in the linux konsole, but I was unable to get the packages installed, as it reported multiple errors, since the version number is newer than what is given in the example.
https://github.com/badly-drawn-wizards/vangogh_oc_fix
If someone actually gets this to work on SteamOS 3.6.19-3.6.21 (or main channel builds), please post precisely what you did, step by step, because not everyone here is good with Linux.