Finally got Steering Wheel to work (Logitech G920)

[V I D A L]

After buying this game 3 times and refunding it twice, I gave it another go after tempering with the Wheel support of the original, which was also pretty messed up.

The problem I was having: On controller settings, the game showed the wheel as an "Unknown Device" and whenever I tried to map any action, it would immediately force LS input. (Which turned out to be the accelerator).

In the original, the same problem exists. The game at least identify my Logitech G920 but it would also stuck any action to LS.

In both games, you could still map the wheel axis by turning it all the way to the max in one direction, which would prove that somewhere hidden in this remaster, the code for wheel support was still there and I would still get force feedback.

The solution: Quite simple actually.
Open the Logitech G Hun app. (I know, it's garbage and you should never use it otherwise).

Then in the "Game & Applications" section, add a new game. Pick NFS11Remastered.exe from whichever path you have the game installed.

Set steering wheel operating rage to 180 which is the minimum. (default is 900). Or choose whatever it works for you.

Then, the most important bit: Go into pedal options and check [x] COMBINED PEDALS. This was the single option in which was glitching out the accelerator and making the game force LS in any input. This solves everything in both the original game and the remastered for me.

Now, start the game and voila.. you will be able to map your wheel normally under "Unknown Device" and it works perfectly. Dare a say, better than the original. I've been experimenting a bit with both and the original had no deadzone, making the handling very twitchy to me. The remaster for some reason has a nice deadzone so you can comfortably move the wheel a bit without moving the car too much.

Force Feedback works as it should and everything is fine.

The only con is unlike the original, you can't map menu only actions in this version, so you still need a controller or keyboard next to you to navigate the game outside races.. in the original you could have everything mapped into the wheel and never had to touch the controller.

Bonus, if you have a shifter, you can even map your handbreak to your shift 4 for a bit of more immersion, since the game doesn't have manual gear anyway..

I hope it works for you too if you try. Should be the same for the G29, which is basically the same Wheel, but for Playstation. G920 is the Xbox version.

Edit: Because G Hub is pure trash.. after I launch the game I Alt+Tab to make sure the NFS11Remastered profile is active, because it's often not and G Hub has the awful habit to switch back to the Default Desktop profile. So switch back to NFS11 profile, then Alt Tab back into the game.

[necrogoatlord]

any sort of deadzone for a wheel is garbage and so is only using 180. I dunno why you people keep trying to play this game with the wheel. Its literally the purest arcade triple A racer in the past decade.

[V I D A L]

Originally posted by necrogoatlord:

any sort of deadzone for a wheel is garbage and so is only using 180. I dunno why you people keep trying to play this game with the wheel. Its literally the purest arcade triple A racer in the past decade.

Thanks for your toxic input. You don't know much of what you are talking about.

So you mean Steering Wheels are only meant for simulators?

You must be too young to remember that arcade racers "invented" steering wheel in video games. The first time any of us have ever play a racing game with steering wheel was on the arcades. Arcade racers have had cabinets with steering wheels since the 90s. For a decade we play arcade racing games with steering wheel before there was even a possibility to have a steering wheel controller at home.

Outrun, Turbo, RoadBlasters, Rad Mobile, VirtuaRacing, Daytona USA, Sega Rally, Crusin' USA, California Speed, San Francisco Rush, Scud Racer among another thousand arcade racing game that popularised steering wheel.

Second, no.. deadzone is important depending in how a game handle. Most games with a controller require deadzone and it has deadzone by default you cannot control. In the original, the lack of deadzone makes it impossible to even stay in a straight line playing with a wheel. The remaster thankfully feels better than the original.

Third, you don't even know how the operation range of a steering wheel works, so no point of explaining.

Run along now.. you obviously not interested in playing this game with wheel and seeing other people figuring out how to have fun and to make the game work with the controller they want only makes you mad for some reason.... so go find some purpose, will you?

[pinkimo]

A gamepad deadzone on a wheel is a no-no, a massive deadzone will never feel as good as no deadzone.
But I think I get why you say that. You may have encountered the same bug I just encountered on the original version. On my first session there was no issue at all, with the usual tiny deadzone so we can go straight without problem. But on my 2nd session, it was impossible to go straight, there was a kind of negative deadzone, it was pulling on the right with the wheel centered, and pulling on the left with the wheel turned 1° to the left. Restarting the game fixed that. You may try the original game again and restart it if you can't go straight.

[【ネップ】— Excal —]

Originally posted by V I D A L:

Originally posted by necrogoatlord:

any sort of deadzone for a wheel is garbage and so is only using 180. I dunno why you people keep trying to play this game with the wheel. Its literally the purest arcade triple A racer in the past decade.

Thanks for your toxic input. You don't know much of what you are talking about.

So you mean Steering Wheels are only meant for simulators?

You must be too young to remember that arcade racers "invented" steering wheel in video games. The first time any of us have ever play a racing game with steering wheel was on the arcades. Arcade racers have had cabinets with steering wheels since the 90s. For a decade we play arcade racing games with steering wheel before there was even a possibility to have a steering wheel controller at home.

Outrun, Turbo, RoadBlasters, Rad Mobile, VirtuaRacing, Daytona USA, Sega Rally, Crusin' USA, California Speed, San Francisco Rush, Scud Racer among another thousand arcade racing game that popularised steering wheel.

Second, no.. deadzone is important depending in how a game handle. Most games with a controller require deadzone and it has deadzone by default you cannot control. In the original, the lack of deadzone makes it impossible to even stay in a straight line playing with a wheel. The remaster thankfully feels better than the original.

Third, you don't even know how the operation range of a steering wheel works, so no point of explaining.

Run along now.. you obviously not interested in playing this game with wheel and seeing other people figuring out how to have fun and to make the game work with the controller they want only makes you mad for some reason.... so go find some purpose, will you?

Absolutely destroyed him. Preach.

[ObamaLawyer]

doesn't work for my g920, tried messing around with the combined wheels and pedal sens but it kept thinking everything was ls

[V I D A L]

Originally posted by Cruzmatt22:

doesn't work for my g920, tried messing around with the combined wheels and pedal sens but it kept thinking everything was ls

Not sure how to help without knowing exactly what you've missed. Make sure to, after launching the game, Alt+Tab back into the G Hub app to make sure the NFS profile is active.

[Wolfmann Mike]

Originally posted by necrogoatlord:

any sort of deadzone for a wheel is garbage and so is only using 180. I dunno why you people keep trying to play this game with the wheel. Its literally the purest arcade triple A racer in the past decade.

you need to at least try to use a wheel before judging.

a 2 or 3 % deadzone with 180 Degrees rotatation will work fine.

I use a g25 and have that setup, it's defintely more arcade than a simulation, but the small deadzone and high sensitvity otherwise, brought from 180 degrees rotation, is enough to fine tune even Hyper series with twitch accuracy to turn on a dime and also not bne fishtailing without a deadzone.

https://youtu.be/SGtu5c84GMY

[Meinlein]

Thrustmaster T150 works here using the Thrustmaster tool to make the same settings as OP

[Wolfmann Mike]

for people with G25/G27, the lgs software that supports those wheels but doesn't have SDK support , version number is 5.10.xx and is hard to find but will be the Official software for G Series wheels.

I have a google drive link here: (Note: 64-bit version ONLY)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xBI-lYbEZGxKG2Wuk64eBbX3dk0-rNEa/view?usp=sharing

[Jackson]

This game instantly crashes after pressing any key on the first menu when I have a wheel connected (Logitech) but the original game doesn't for some reason. Wondering if it's due to a GHUB Update.

The farthest I can get is to load a game up, then try connecting the USB Cable, but it still insta crashes if GHUB is installed. If you uninstall GHUB and the wheel from device manager you can start the game, but the wheel range issue is present so everything maps to LS.

[V I D A L]

Originally posted by {SoM} Jackson:

This game instantly crashes after pressing any key on the first menu when I have a wheel connected (Logitech) but the original game doesn't for some reason. Wondering if it's due to a GHUB Update.

The farthest I can get is to load a game up, then try connecting the USB Cable, but it still insta crashes if GHUB is installed. If you uninstall GHUB and the wheel from device manager you can start the game, but the wheel range issue is present so everything maps to LS.

This sounds very familiar. I had this issue too, but I really don't remember how I got past it. Maybe I just reinstalled everything? I don't remember.. may have solved itself.
One thing I'm sure of, plug the wheel before launching the game. For me it would crash if I plug or unplug it while the game was running.

[Wolfmann Mike]

Originally posted by {SoM} Jackson:

This game instantly crashes after pressing any key on the first menu when I have a wheel connected (Logitech) but the original game doesn't for some reason. Wondering if it's due to a GHUB Update.

The farthest I can get is to load a game up, then try connecting the USB Cable, but it still insta crashes if GHUB is installed. If you uninstall GHUB and the wheel from device manager you can start the game, but the wheel range issue is present so everything maps to LS.

Disable Crossplay aftter uninstall/reinsatll, and delete your profile in Documents Diectory.

[mrorange]

ah well just wasted half an hour download to find out it does not support steering wheels the native way... thanks for the guide, but not in the mood to fiddle for now :)

[V I D A L]

Originally posted by mrorange:

ah well just wasted half an hour download to find out it does not support steering wheels the native way... thanks for the guide, but not in the mood to fiddle for now :)

I get you. It really sucks that a fresh release of a racing game doesn't give you plug and play support for steering wheels.
I'm used to the hassle because I mostly use my wheel to play classic arcade racing games on emulation such as Crusin n USA, San Francisco Rush, Daytona, Outrun2 etc.. A lot of hours and patience setting them up.

[mrorange]

Originally posted by V I D A L:

Originally posted by mrorange:

ah well just wasted half an hour download to find out it does not support steering wheels the native way... thanks for the guide, but not in the mood to fiddle for now :)

I get you. It really sucks that a fresh release of a racing game doesn't give you plug and play support for steering wheels.
I'm used to the hassle because I mostly use my wheel to play classic arcade racing games on emulation such as Crusin n USA, San Francisco Rush, Daytona, Outrun2 etc.. A lot of hours and patience setting them up.

Actually a great idea to get back to those classics. Loved them in the arcades.