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The quest should start on its own once you reach around level 10-15.
As for how you get there, you have to be a certain level (should be from level 10-15 or higher) and be inside a main settlement. You'll know when it happens. ;)
Anyway, you eventually get on a boat and go to Solstheim. Just be ready to see a lot of ash. But there is also the typical Skyrim snow and ice with some grass. It sounds really bland when I say it like that but it really is a bit of a breather from the usual Skyrim.
There are some pretty cool weapons and armor you can get from the DLC. Personally, I prefered Dawnguard, but they're both phenomenal add-ons with their own merits. Dragonborn's story is 'meh' at best, but it has A LOT of exploration and side quests.
For me it started when I just finished the first quest where you meet the greybeards and learn that new shout.
@Faith, maior settlement??? What does it mean, what is a maior settlement?