Silent Hunter 3 Basics...

The purpose of this guide is to lay out the basics for those that are new to the game. And understanding the use of the U-boat.

Introduction...

>There will be some real world and historical explanations, but mostly of the info will be more based to the game.

>Basically this is a open running campaign. You patrol grid locations and sink the enemy as well as dodge the enemy from sinking you. You have war start till war's end. If you make it to the end, well, you basically survived the war. All renown and high honors will no longer have any bearing so there is no glorification. After all, Your on the side that lost the war right?

>You have access to the U-boat types produced during the war. You have the type 2, type 7, and the type 9. The type 21 is also available, but if you want to go by the history about it, there were only 2 available and they were just proto types use on some missions for testing reasons. But its full potential was never seen because, the war ended. How ever it doesn't stop you from using it in the game as a "in service boat"...

>You have upgrades that you can get/buy pending on the amount of your renown.

>You can select your crew, dismiss personal or enlist new ones.

>The equipment on the boat is very important, you have depth gages, hydrophones, speed control, and a two way radio from you to base.
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U-Boat Weapons...

>The Deck Gun

For the most part on your you boat you have a deck gun which were fitted on the
type 7 (VII) 88mm deck gun (about a 3inch gun in standard measurements) and type 9 (IX) 105mm deck gun (about a 4inch gun in standard measurements) . Now during my own research shows a conflict what the deck guns were used for. One side says " never really used and found more so useless" another says "to finish off a ship that failed to sink by torpedo" and the last one said "first choice at any chance on a clear day to save torpedoes until they become really needed."
Your the skipper, you will have to make your own choice.

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>Anti air craft gun, fitted to all U-boat types.

The surface enemy of the U-boat was not so much a destroyer, but the air plane. They drop right out of the clouds with load outs of min bombs, depth charges, and a hail of bullets. The anti-aircraft guns on board is what you need to help you stop them, or get them off your back!

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>Torpedoes are the main weapons on the U-boat

Torpedoes, basically like a small mine under propulsion. It is a very devastating weapon. You can launch on the surface or below the surface. Why I say like a small mine, because like a mine it blows the hull wide open, in reality that is...
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>Using the Boat..

Understanding on how to use the boat to your advantage may make the difference if you can play out or restart were you left off.
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Enemy Anti Sub Weapons of the destroyers...

>Depth charge

A water bomb that detonates by depth selection. When it explodes, it also hydro shocks the area, this would in turn hit the U-boat, causing ruptures with in it. The closer, the more effective it was. Since the U-boats were more U and less boat making them stronger in WWII, depth charges became more of a shock and aw weapon causing U-boat Captains to surface. One of the Captains of the U-505 so far is the only navel personal in history to suffer "shell shock" from prolong depth charging...
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>Hedge Hog

Contact bomb. Originally it is a anti-mine weapon used by the British military to clear German mines. latter in the war, The navy began using them on the destroyers. It fires each one in a manner to create a giant ring. They were more effective, un-like the depth charge it would drop and when it made contact to the U-boat, it would blow it open without question. The navy didn't have to guess was it a hit like they did for depth charges, if a hedge hog blow up, it was a no doubt hit and destroy.
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>Navel Mines

A powerful explosive device that is attached to a chain. If it makes contact with any ship, it would blow it open. Avoid it...
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The Boat Itself....

A war vessel making it possible to go were war ships can not, or can be attacked. At war start the British set up a blockade near the opening to the Arctic Ocean and stretched it to Iceland. This made it difficult for German war ships to get into the Atlantic Ocean to gain access to the main shipping lanes.
But the use of the U-boats made it possible for the shipping war to touch off because the U-boat was low to the water making it hard to spot and could dive, making it possible to travel under water to slip past the blockade. Since it could be submerge, and had the use of torpedoes, convoys could be sunk and no way of knowing were the U-boat that sunk it was at.

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>TYPE 2 (Type II) game uses A and D models..
This is a small Coastal Patrol Vessel. It has a limited range and only enough torpedoes to do what it can. Its working depth is also limited. In the game, trying to use limited options you will find it practically impossible, Since the grid charts you get, take you beyond the real range the boat was even designed for.
3 Fore Tubes loaded, Stores 2 internal
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>TYPE 7 (Type VII) game uses B and C models
This is the famous Boat type used in the movie Das Boat, known to many as U-96. It was well known for use in the Wolf packs against the convoys. It was faster + cheaper to build, and crewed by less than the Type 9 was. What made the type 7 so good is that it is a balance of the type 2 and type 9. Some of the grid charts for this boat may take you as far as the US. Problem is, this was never a ocean going U-boat. It was never ranged to take that kind of distance. So once again using the limited options may not work out that well.
4 Fore Tubes loaded, Stores 6 internal, 1 external
1 Aft Tube loaded, Stores 1 internal, 1 external
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>Type 9 (Type IX) game uses B, C, and D2 models
The unknown under dog. This was a ocean going U-boat that did its fair share just as the type 7 in the war. It was also used to get spies into Canada and the USA. One of its famous locations of interest was torpedo alley, and also as far as the Florida keys to all the way to Brazil. The grid charts are not that far different than the others, and at times using the limited options tend to prove pointless at times, doesn't seem like the boat can do the range it was intended to do.
4 Fore Tubes loaded, Stores 6 internal, 5 external
2 Aft Tube loaded, Stores 2 internal, 2 external
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>TYPE 21 (Type XXI) Stand alone model, war was over before it could be used in production
Was a prototype of the new age convoy hunters yet to come. Was faster submerged than any U-boat made and could go longer under water by its batteries. Instead of 4 tubes it used 6. With a large complement storage internal held more than the type 9 and could go farther. One of its missions went as far as the Caribbean Islands region. But the war ended before it could be produced as a "In service" U-boat among the 7s and 9s. Game wise the charts are not much and there are some issues with the boat by default, Really you will not get enough renown to even be able to get it. The war usually ends before then, how ever it is there never the less.
6 Fore Tubes loaded, Stores 17 internal
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Which one should I go with you ask? That is completely up to you. Most players already have decided what U-boat is best for them. No matter the 2, 7, or 9, even the 21. I personally like the type 9. I am a Type 9 kind of guy...
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Understanding Bearings......

Bearings are the numbers in degrees. For example, your bragging to your friends about how you can do a 180 in your car. What is a 180? You already know this, a half circle turn that points in the opposite direction. Well on your boat 180 is the stern/aft (back) section of the boat. Starting from 0 as the front going clock wise around to 180 and around again to 359 to 0 again. So if your looking through the binoculars, periscope, or the UZO, you will see a number graph that moves up or down in numbers as you pan around.

Those are the bearing numbers laid out as degrees. So if your watch officer says "ship spotted at bearing 45" then you already know to start looking off to the right someplace off the bow (front) between 30 and 40. It is very important to know this, what ever view station your at. It is so easy to say "it is not that important" until the watch officer Is screaming about a destroyer at bearing 250 rolling in at 20knots. And your looking around so fast you missed it. It is so easy to pan the full 360 quick. And that would be a bad time to be missing a ship like that.
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U-boat Equipment...

>Binoculars
They are suppose to help you spot a ship. Even though a ship could ID through Binoculars by spotting the flag, the game by default dose not have that kind of binoculars for you. The ship would have to be close enough for you to see the flag and by that time, even you get spotted by the ship trying to ID it, and that would be too late. How ever you can use it to spot smoke on the horizon. You can also get your cross hairs on a ship, and order the main deck gun to fire at your target. Place the cross hairs over the ship and hit the short cut key "space bar".
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>UZO

Basically like binoculars, but are preset on magnification. It is mounted so it stays stationary making targeting a ship more efficient were using regular binoculars your holding them and moving back and forth and right and left against the boat movement in the water. making the target information incorrect. It is used for surface firing, mainly at the cover of night. But game wise, pending the conditions it works, other times you get spotted and the hit is up.

In the game you can lock on to your targets and fire the torpedoes. There is also a data pad and ID manual available for advanced users. here you can use the ID book to put in the information into the data pad to launch a torpedo. I myself is not too good with it, by the time I set it up, I have lost the target and have to re-do it again. So I let the weapons officer handle that.

How ever it dose display the ship type, speed and range (distance) from you. Very important to know if your firing on a destroyer or a merchant ship. If the target is traveling at 12knots or better, most likely your going to miss and waste the torpedo. If its traveling at 11knots or slower, you will most likely hit the target. If the target is at 5knots, the probability is completely in your favor more so.
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>Periscope

There are two kinds, attack and observation. The attack gives you more a precise view of the target. And a better magnification. Torpedo controls are found here. The observation give you a more full view and can be directed completely upward towards the sky. The real one was suppose to be used for checking the surrounding area for destroyers and sky for planes to make sure it was safe to surface. Torpedo controls are also here and also the data pad and ID manual. (see UZO)
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>Hydrophones

The ears of the boat while under water, when submerged you can detect if a ship is near by the hydrophones. The large dial gage shows the bearing numbers from the front of the boat to rear. (See Bearing). You can move the needle around to determine were from your position a ship maybe coming to, from, or passing you.

If you hear a choppy noise and the needle is pointing to 200 degrees, and the choppy noise is getting louder, then it is aft just left of your position and getting closer. fainter or quieter, it is getting farther or going away from you. It only works when submerged, and for the best results call up a all stop. Mainly if you suspect a ship some place not too far, and not loud enough to hear over the U-boats propulsion. Has to be manned by one of the crew, but you can also use it if you have to.
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>Radio

For receiving messages or sending. True it may prove to be pointless, how ever if there is a update on a convoy you can only receive that message when the station is manned by one of the crew. And if you run out of torpedoes because you engaged a convoy before your patrol grid, here you can send in a patrol report and get a reply telling you to return to base.
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>User interface gauges

These gauges are at your lower right corner. Each gauge has two different views triggered by the button below them. The speed control and rudder control gauges have a basic and advance controls, the depth has common shallow and deep depth controls.
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>Speed controls...

If you have the understanding for RPMs you would use the advance view. if you don't, you would use the basic telegraph control view to show forward and revers.

>Rudder controls...

If you have the understanding of you location between North, south, east and west, you would use the advanced view. What I mean is according to the gauge your facing south, you want to turn towards the north, the you click on it till your headed that way on the compass.

Some players guide their turn by the Chronometer used for torpedoes to help regulate their turn. Or if you want a direct result, you would use the rudder view to determine how hard of a turn you want. and use a compass on the wall of the U-boat to determine how far to go or just use your map to make sure your going in the direction you want..
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U-boat Equipment 2...

>Depth gage..

The shallow gauge is rated to 25meters and the deep depth gauge is rated to 260meters.
This is important because if your in water less than 25 meter you need the shallow gauge to regulate a proper depth without hitting the bottom. The deep depth gauge is good to regulate how deep your diving from a enemy contact. Always check with your navigation officer for the depth you have to work with. Nothing blows more than calling up a crash dive not knowing your only in 30meters of water. A crash dive takes you to 70meters by default. You will hit the bottom. And the game U-boats are not made to reflect the real ones as in strength. So once you hit the bottom, and its the bubble pop syndrome for you.
Game over...
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>Torpedo control

The torpedo control center lets you do two things, let the game weapons officer set up the torpedo trajectory or you can do it by means of manual input, and the use of the map. Now I can't really explain in detail about this because I am no good with it. By the time I set it all up, I discover I have to do it all over again because the target has moved on.

So I let the weapons officer handle it. Really you have to mess around with it, Look were it says input off and on. When it is red, the manual input is off, so the weapon officer has control. When it is green then manual input is on, you have the control over it. Impact\magnetic, speed and salvo selections you can control with the input "off" in the event you feel it would be the best choice. I have used it manually to hit a standing target because the first hit took out the targets drive and I want to be sure it is going to hit. Other times I used it to launch a aft torpedo wild at 20 meters in hopes I hit a destroyer looking for me..

How ever if you had been letting the weapons officer set up your hit and the torpedoes are missing, the reason for that is the game by default launches the torpedo at a 12 meters depth run. So he is missing because the torpedoes are going under the ship before they can start to surface. Since the torpedo depth can be adjust with the input on, just set each tube to launch at about 3 to 5 meters. When the tubes are reloaded, re-check to make sure it is still at about 3 to 5 meters before sending them. Any shallower than that, the enemy will spot them and start evading, mainly if you send them out at 1meter.
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NOTE: Once a target spots you or the inbound torpedo or the torpedo missed but the target heard it go by, or the torpedo rubbed against the targets hull, or the torpedo was so fast that it reached its contact point that the bow of the target ran it over, the ship will start its evasion maneuver. This is were it starts turning hard to starboard (right) and hard to port (left).
Making it impossible to hit with another shot. If your loaded with straight run torpedoes, to get another chance you have to time its shift so that by the time it turns back it will be in the alignment of the hit. I only had that work out once for me, and that was a lucky shot because I was doing this with a different target in the convoy, and it still missed and ended up hitting a different target who was evading..
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>U-Bold

Basically a decoy, its a metal container that is ejected out the side which has a chemical reaction releasing metal flakes throwing off the sonar, and makes a bit of noise hiding the U-boats propeller noise throwing off their hydrophones. But in the game it is only the sonar. After all, a chemical reaction is going to make some kind of noise right?
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Torpedoes....

>The Torpedo

There are different torpedoes in the game you will come across. Each one dose serve a smart purpose. You have the gas charged, and electric. And from there the types, which is Straight run, ladder run, and homing. Straight run torpedoes are just that, they run straight to were ever you set them to go, no matter if it is 50 degrees or 0. The ladder is set that the torpedo runs to a certain distance, and once it reaches that distance and hits nothing, it begin to fallow a preset ladder pattern going back and forth until it hits something or stops running. And the most favorite, homing, You fire it at a evading target, it will lock on to the sound of its propellers and go right at it, A hit.

But each has its purpose. So really, a boat load of homing torpedoes isn't that smart. Here is why, if you send out multiple homing torpedoes, once the reach a certain distance, way before their contact, the homing goes active, it will cause the torpedo to change course and go after something else. On MP on a LAN this one buddy of mine had a issue of torpedoes exploding before impact. Turns out he was firing homing torpedoes, and they would lock onto each other and hit. Since I was using auto loading checked off, I had control on what was to be loaded next.

Straight run torpedoes are best for hitting un-suspecting targets, homing torpedoes are best on targets that are evading or inbound destroyers. The FAT or LUT is a nice last torpedo load to fire when you run out. If the ship is with in 1km, you can use the FAT like a straight run. The best way to use the FAT is to fire at a target with in a convoy. It uses a ladder pattern and once it reaches it mark, it will start its run inside the convoy columns going back and forth raising a chance of a possible hit. The LUT in the real world is not limited like it is in the game. The difference is, the LUT is used as a straight run, but if it misses, it will continue until it kicks in its ladder settings, then like the FAT, it will go back and forth till it scores a hit or quits. In the game I have no idea why they limited to another version of the FAT. Maybe the Dev got confused, because when you look it up, has a completely different use.. Moving on...

Gas charge torpedoes were faster and could go longer vs electric. How ever, escaping bubbles could be spotted on the water surface, were the electric torpedo release no bubbles on the surface, what it lacks in speed and distance made up in stealth.

When you go to your load out inventory you can click on the torpedo to get its information, this very important when selecting a torpedo. You could have all tubes set to depth 3 or 4meters and still not get a hit if you do not know what your shooting. The main key factor is range. If the torpedo is ranged for 3km, that means it will travel up to 3km and die out. If looking at your data pad it shows the target out at 3456m (3km and 456meters), then that torpedo will never make the hit.

You have to take in to consideration a few things, if the torpedo can go far, will it hold its course. because like a bullet that looses its height as it travels through the air, the water, and under current can cause the torpedo to slightly go off course. So range is a real big factor here. Below I laid out what I use as the most effective range for me...
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>Torpedo chart

T I (G7a) Gas charge type. WWI torpedo, and used in WWII,...
Range: 5-7.5-12.5km <best used at night 1km to 7km

T I FaT I (G7a) Gas charge type, ladder torpedo...
Range: 5-7.5-12.5km <best used at 1km to 2km for possible straight run, 3km to 4km for good ladder

T II (G7e) First electric type. Had issues, ok had a lot of issues..
Range: 3km <best used at 1km to 2500meters (2km500m)

T III (G7e) Second electric type, The issue were resolved...
Range: 5km <best used at 1km to 4 km

III FaT II (G7e) electric type type, a advance version ladder torpedo
Range: 5km <best used at 1km to 2km for possible straight run, 3km to 4km for ladder

T IV (G7es) - Falke electric type, first homing type
Range: 7,5km <best used 1km to 5km

T V (G7es) – Zaunkönig I electric type, advanced homing
Range: 5,7km <best used 1km to 4km

>>>>Edit LUT information..
While looking up other stuff, I came across some information to correct here.
A LUT Torpedo is a straight run, that once it has missed it's target, it will began to go into a ladder pattern like a FAT Torpedo. Were the FAT Torpedo, once launched, it automatically goes into it's set ladder pattern right away..

T I LuT I (G7a) Gas charge type.
Range: 5-7.5-12.5km

T III LuT II (G7e) electric type
Range: 5km

T XI (G7es) – Zaunkönig II electric type, more advanced homing
Range: 5,7km <best used 1km to 4km
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NOTE: The real Difference between the Falke, Zaunkönig I, Zaunkönig II? The Falke was the first generation homing, the Zaunkönig I is a second generation homing with a better engagement homing system, and the Zaunkönig II with a far better engagement homing system. I read some place that the British were trying techniques to throw off the homing torpedoes by dragging sound decoys behind the ships. So I guess this would be why there were more than three types made. Just a guess...
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Stations....

>Stations

Your access to any main station, either by short cut key, or the selection menu to the left side that scrolls out.

You can also use your mouse to get from one station to the next. If you pan up you will see the conning tower access, left click and your in the conning tower itself, looking up you see a hatch, left click again gets you to the bridge. Right click will send you back down. If you turn you view around, were ever the mouse cursor goes red, you should be able to left click to enter.
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Map Chart
This is were you do your navigation. You would plot the course to get you started in the direction you need to go, and to the grid chart to get to, not to forget a patrol pattern that you may need once you reach the grid. Because once you are at the grid, you will need to patrol it for 24 hours. The best time compression use would be to patrol at slow speed. If you travel at fast speed, then under the time compression you will finish your patrol course quickly and have to do another one.

You have tools to use also for different things. Advance players make the most use of the tools. The tool I use the most beside the navigation tool is the ruler to measure distance to targets or their direction. Very useful if you need to make a intercept and kill box.
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NOTE: Is there a game time out side of time compression. No there isn't. If the course you plot takes two hours for arrival, and you do not compress the time. Then in two real world hours you will arrive at the location in the game, according to the game plotted course time. Isn't that neat?
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>Damage Control/Crew Management
This is were damage repairs and crew location is sorted out.
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>Crew Management
The nice thing about SH3 is if you want to keep a real world log record on your crew to help make choices on what to do with them, it can be done. Here you have the amount of patrols they have done, you can have anyone at any station, or use a note pad to keep track on who is who and were you feel they should be at. Crew experience is rated depending on active station, and going to patrol grid and returning to port. You can exit out at sea by selecting return to base, but the experience points will take longer time to build. Or return to base so their experience points takes lessor time to build. It is completely up to you on how they should be set up, there is no right or wrong way.

The green bar above the compartment will tell you if that compartment has the needed hands to run it. If it is half way, it may not run as good if the green bar was more. If it is less it may not be enough to run the compartment. For example, engines won't run, and torpedoes won't load. Qualifying petty officers and Sub-Lieutenant Help stations run more efficient. Only Sub-Lieutenant can have up to 3 qualifications. And petty officers can only have 1. Promotions of all crew members increase their experience level to make them more efficient.
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>Damage control box

Most likely since the subs will most likely suffer a bubble pop syndrome ending the game with a hit or two, you may end up never using this. However just in case the hit was not too bad and some how you can save the boat, here is what you do.

First off the #1 enemy of the sub is not the surface enemy. Its water. Think about it, your in a steel coffin made to put man were he was never born to live and now its damage filling up with water, the very thing it was made to be under to keep you alive. And now your gonna be lost to it. The deeper you go, the more pressure against the hull, the more the rupture caves in, the more water gets in, the more heaver it becomes, the faster the boat dives, and out of control to the crushing depths of Davy Jones locker. May sound dramatic, but if the boat is flooding, compartments need to be fixed to stop the flooding so the pumps can get the water out. If not, that is what is going to happen you.

The damage control box is were you place crew at to do repairs to the boat. occupied compartments by crew members will also be doing repairs, but in the damage control box they increase the speed of repairs in those compartments, and in compartments that are empty, including the watch tower and gun emplacements. You load up damage control station with some crew members, then left click on the compartment that needs repair. Yellow is not so bad, orange is bad, red is things were destroyed.

If your flooding you need to determine what is flooding badly and what is flooding slowly so you can have the crew work on the important damages so the pumps can get the water out. When the repairs are done, the flooding will stop, and the pumps will take care of the rest. If you get multiple flooding, then look what is flooding faster, sometimes there is nothing more to repair than just the compartment, that the other things inside the compartment are done. Then stop the repair and go to the next spot were things are damaged and need to be fix. Once that is done you can return to the other compartment to finish the compartment fix.
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NOTE: If the Conning tower is destroyed, anything in the conning tower destroyed, or the gun emplacements are destroyed. You sub will always sink. out of control and never hold its depth. I do not know why the game is made like that. I have seen pics of a U-boat returning to base for repairs on Tower that was badly damaged because a depth charge landed on it. The conning tower is not part of the main hull body, The purpose of a hatch door on the main body that leads to the conning tower is to prevent flooding internally if the tower is destroyed.

I have seen a pic of a deck gun emplacement blown off the sub and hanging over the side and it did not cause it to sink either. Then again its mounted to the U-boat body, not the pressure hull. The only time I saw information on a damage conning tower causing the sub to sink was because it took a hit at the wield seam were the tower meets the pressure hull body. So the water came in through that.

If your Conning tower is destroyed, anything in the conning tower destroyed, or the gun emplacements are destroyed, and if you can leave the area of combat, I suggest you abort and get away to safety so you can return to base. Once destroyed, it can't be repaired. And you will never maintain a working depth for operations. You will just loose the boat.
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Stations 2....

>Officer Commands

This is located to the lower left, if in the crew management you move a officer from post, his slot will be empty. In order to have things done, a officer has to be at station. you left click on the officer icon and you will see a small icon box, each one of these will have different functions to have the officer to do.

For example, you see only one target in the periscope, and you decide since this one is alone, you want to use the deck gun and spare some torpedoes, but you can't determine the weather well through the view port. You can not man a deck gun when the wind speed is over 10 meters a second. If you surface the boat and the wind speed is higher than 8 meters a second, you will lose your chance. The enemy will spot you, and began the evading maneuver, causing you to loose your opportunity torpedo shot.

If you shoot a torpedo, what if you could have saved it for latter, now its off and running and you still could have more to come. Here you would click on the navigation officer Icon, and select weather, he will tell you the weather conditions, and the wind speed. He can also tell you the depth of the water, important information to know. Each officer has a set of commands for you to choose them to do, regarding their station. From loading torpedoes to silent running.
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>Things you should know...

The weapons officer has a command icon to gain access to the torpedoes loaded and gun ammunition. When you select the icon that looks like two torpedoes on top each other you will see you inventory (short cut key "I"). Auto loading means just that, they will auto load any torpedo into the tube that is empty. 7s and 9s use external compartments to carry extra. You will need to drag and drop the external torpedo to the empty slot of the internal compartment. The torpedo will be moved to the inside, this can only be done while on the surface.

If you get annoyed with the auto loading because you want certain torpedoes loaded, unchecked auto loading. Here you can decide what you want loaded and not loaded. For example, lets say, you depleted all 4 tubes, but instead and you have 3 straight run, a lut and two homing, and the auto load put in all the homing and the lut and one straight run, looking at your target you can tell its not going to work out, Unless they are close enough with 1km the lut is useless to you, and the homing will not work out because you need to send two, and are saving them for the destroyer that is taking notice of what is going on. and if the one straight run makes a hit and fails to sink it, then you have to send the homing which could be a waste because there is another moving target near it.

With the auto load off you can decide what torpedoes get loaded next, you can have the two straight runs loaded, the lut and one homing. (see torpedoes)
Also you can check you deck weapons inventory on what is left, in the upper corner you will see a icon that looks like shell rounds, click on that and it will display the weapons and the box loads for them that are left.

Keep in mind with Auto loading off after you launch you must go back to the inventory to drag and drop another one into the launch tube from the internal reserves. External reserves need to be moved to the internal reserves stock first before loaded into the tubes. Each player uses a system that works best for them. So really it is up to you how you do it. There is no right or wrong way. Also if you change your mind about a torpedo loaded and want something else when having auto load off, if the internal reserve has a empty slot, just drag and drop the loaded torpedo from the launch tube you want back into the reserve inventory spot that is empty, The torpedo will be unloaded.
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U-Boat Tactics...

>Were you stand at..

Sound travels under water easy. The surface enemy also has its own listening devices. In WWI Destroyers were fitted with their own kind of hydrophones to find you. ASDIC (Sonar) was also available then, even going into WWII. They will search you out, fallow the noise, then start pining you, once they get a hit, they will continue as they speed up to over take you and then depth charge you into oblivion. Because in this game there is no getting away from the bubble pop syndrome.

It is important to know that you need to do some evading too, so I will share of some of my own tactics on what I have done. They are a 50/50 chance of escape, each player skipper comes up with a tactic of their own that works best for them. So my suggestions are just that, to point you in the direction. Who knows, you may come up with one better than I.
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>Attack air craft

Your on the surface and suddenly planes attack. Now the old sword fish are not very hard to take down, but the newer more faster attack air craft is. I go full speed, and hard turn towards them. I set my anti-air craft gunners by using the watch officer commands, so they will fire at will, and only on engaging targets. The attack planes will set up their run and one after the other will come in for a hard dive bomb run. Its a hit or miss chance that when they drop the bombs, my turn would have thrown off the timing cause the bombs to miss. If I run straight the chance of being hit is higher.

I will hard turn the other direction to the next wave coming in if I need to. basically I am going in a circle. Once they had done their attack run and pass on by, they will turn around. After they pass, I call up a crash dive, and put the rudders amid ship. Getting under fast and quick is better than risking a hit to the boat on the surface. As the years go by, the will get better. Yeah I could have called a crash dive when they were attacking, but during their approach and or attack, their chances of a direct hit on you is practically 100%. Which as you know is very bad.

The ideal is to do what you have to so you can evade them until they past by, once they past by, crashing diving will be more so in your favor. The bad part is the first group past by but a second group is incoming. Prolonging your chance of escape and increasing your chance of getting hit. Lost a gunner crew and watch Officer due to problems like that. can get tight quick..
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>Ship Attack

Once a ship is spotted I always dive to periscope depth. I do not know who the target is. Once a periscope depth, I look to see who it is. On the map I lay out its direction with the ruler and lay out the kill box. If my torpedoes can do 5km, then I set the box to 3km. If its 3km then I set to 2km. I am thinking, is the target alone, is it part of a escorted group. Is the target armed, do I have the weather right for a deck gun attack. How many other contacts out of my visual range do I have, I have the sonar guy handling that. it may seem like a lot of stuff to think about, but for me I am a bit of a vet, so all this is already thought of and done.
If I can do a deck gun attack I prefer to get in at 2km if I can. Once I do this, its full speed and emergency blow to pop on the surface as quick as I can. If it has to be a torpedo attack, then that is what I do.
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U-Boat Tactics 2...

>Attack On Destroyers

Best way to deal with them is to avoid them, how ever it may come down to it you can't. If you fire a torpedo at them you have a good chance of a miss. Anytime you fire a torpedo at them miss or hit they zero on you. If its a hit, the others will be coming for you and zeroed on you too. So if you fire, be prepared to run. Believe it or not, I use one torpedo for the purpose of getting his attention, once he turns and starts heading at me, I check his distance. In the data pad he will be hauling and that gape closes fast. Once he reaches about 4km, even with a 3km torpedo will be nothing because he will close that too in real short time.

I fire that torpedo with the 50/50 chance of a hit. Then dive under silent running to 50meters. I figure if I dive under silent running, then he can't detect I am moving, so he will hold course straight in to the torpedo that is on its way. The trick is to get below 25meters before he hits 1km. But by then the weapon officer declares a hit, and the target is destroyed. This has been a very successful maneuver for me. But if it misses and he is almost on me and starts pinging, I just roll full flank and get deep quick.
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>Attack on Escorted convoys

I usually intercept the convoy, again I use the ruler to set up the intercept and kill box. Once I am inside, periscope depth and then go to silent running. (engineers command). Silent running no torpedoes will be loaded or repairs done and you run at low propulsion. I check the targets range through the periscope and call up all stop. Here I can determine if I need to get closer, how many warships to deal with and how many cargo ships to deal with. If the escorts are wide spread, I will target starting from the farther cargo ships first to the closer ones last. The reason is once the target is hit, anyone behind it will disperse. So if I fire at the farthest ones in my best hit range to the closest, then each will get hit.

Once all tubes are expended I will return to normal running and get torpedoes loaded, but always watching on what is going on. If they began evading and I have no homing torpedoes, I might as well go. If I have some homing torpedoes then I will send them out 45 to 60 seconds apart for each launch to prevent them from chasing each other. Also I am watching to make sure the destroyers are not heading my direction. If they do come at me head on, well I just send them one and leave. Other than that, I am there until all torpedoes had been used.
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> Evading Destroyers

Very hard to do in this game. Because the game makes them do what is not really accurate. Destroyers do not abandon a convoy to chase you down, because they never know if it is just you or you with others. They just do what they have to keep you down and away from the convoy, after the convoy gets by, they fallow with it.

So of course a crash dive is needed. they can detect you easier above 25 meters. If the destroyer coming up from behind you, I usually going full speed at hard right or left as he goes over me. Some times I take it to 200 meters. Once he is on me I am at full speed until he goes over me and past me, a few seconds after wards I go to slow speed. All the time I am at silent running. What I try to do is get out of the area. If I am trapped near the convoy, then I will go under the convoy forcing the destroyers off my back.

If I have decoys, I will run at full speed and then release the decoys, dive to 150 and go to slow speed. Its a big cat and mouse game. I have them hit me up, and other times I lost them. One time I got hit good enough that I sunk to about 169meter or so and hit the continental shelf. Now I got this destroyer looking for me, I am heavily flooded, trying to get repaired with out him hearing me, it was a mess.
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>Crash dive control

You can control Crash diving. Your in 25 meters of water, call up a crash dive, and watch your shallow depth gage. Once the needle start moving to 10 meters call up periscope depth, may have to do it a few time, should slow up around 17 to 19 meter and then go back up. Its a risky move and I use the short cut keys to make it faster.
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>Evading Mine Field

your playing and come to a location you been before but this time your destroyed, and it say destroyed by mine. To get through a mine field you need to dive at periscope depth, or 13meters. Then raise the periscope just enough to see under the water. And look for the mines, its a bit spooky when they appear out of no were. Just maintain a speed in which you can control your U-boat to give you stopping time or turning time.
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hints and tips...

>Time Compression...

You leaving port at a high time compression, suddenly it is lagging and you can't make it stop. The "backspace" key pauses the game, hitting on this is better because it will stop the game, making it easer to resume under a lower time compression setting.

Your in the middle of the north sea and every time you pass this point the game begins lagging for no reason. Forcing you to run on a lower compression setting for awhile and then it is fine again. When ever it lags under a high time compression, some were, some place is a ship or convoy. Of course you dive and the sonar guy picks up nothing and surface sees nothing.

Its best you dive to periscope depth and call up a all stop, and YOU check it out with the hydrophones. What your listening for is a chopping propulsion, it will be very, very, very faint, but man made sound. If it is fast sound then the ship is fast moving, if it is slow sound, then the ship is a slow moving. It will be up to you if it will be a worth while chase. Find the bearing and pursue. make sure after so much of a distance you re-dive to periscope depth to check if it is getting louder or changed direction. If you get close enough for the hydrophone operator, he will start telling you.
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>Crashes going right back out to patrol after returning...

The game tends to crash as is, so it is best when you complete a patrol, do what ever you need to with the crew members, then exit the game. Then go back into it. This way you can be sure that you will be able to go to the store for your sub upgrades or torpedo arrangements and also be able to go on another mission with out a risk of a crash loosing everything you just did. It is what it is, there is no getting around it. And truthfully, A lot of PC games do tend to crash regardless who makes it...
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>Realistic Options..

Realistic Options menu, It is up to you to choose really. Me personal the game already throws a deep steep curve any way because seems to me its not about a proper running U-boat. It is about what ever it takes to make sure you can't complete the game. So the reality level to me is in the bottom anyway. Just choose what you feel good with, and run with it. Getting worked up over nothing will make the game a burden instead of fun. And remember, This can also be said about other games too, so no need to nick pick the little things..
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>Getting around the U-Boat...

The best way to get things done is using not only the mouse but also short cut keys. F1 shows the list for the keys and their stations for them, I use short cut keys mainly for things like rudder amid ship key ( ' ) or hard right ( key ] ) hard left ( key [ ) crash dive ( key c ) surface boat ( key s ) blow ballast tanks ( key e ) periscope depth ( key p ) received radio messages ( key m )
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Hints and Tips 2...

>MP online or LAN games has been a common question. So here we go...

For some reason Ubisoft doesn't have a hosting server anymore for SH3. Now there is no point of getting up set because many old games no longer have their hosting servers up. The last company that truly cared to keep a server up for a old game was Nova logic for their old Delta Force games. And were talking old games as in 1998, and now its down. So there is no point to scream at Ubisoft over this...

Now there are some forums who have away to get SH3 MP to work via the LAN. Last I saw it was Tungle. I do not know if it will work with the steam version because the last I was on I was using the DVD version. Other than that I get together with some buddies and have a day were we all get together trying each others mods and playing MP scenario's on the LAN. I also know others getting together at a hotels to get a big room and also run a LAN like they are at some kind of SH3 convention. I judge no one, each to their own.

However if you happened to be able to either get a LAN by forum or Tungle or something like that, this is what you need to do. The LAN MP will only work if you and the other players are using the same data files. If you use a mod you still need a clean data folder because not everyone is using the same mod, and you will not be able to connect to the game with it.

Just have copy of the clean data folder at the ready over a re-name. That way the modded game can be re-name to disable and the default game can be re-named to be re-enabled. I also do not know if the LAN will work on steam. If you have a friend on the list that also has the game, make arrangements to give it a shot, and post the results so we all can know...
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>Deck Gun Control

It maybe fine to leave the Anti-aircraft gunners at fire at will, but make sure the deck gun is at "halt fire". If you don't, they will shoot at any ship in range, including the ones you don't want hit. Mainly if your trying to do a surprise attack. (Watch officer command). If you decide to use the deck gun yourself, use your UZO to get the targets range so you can adjust that in the gun sights. To enter the gun sights it is the same as the binoculars, scroll the mouse button.
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>Navel Academy

It is ideal to go here as in being new. You can have a chance to practice and learn more on what to do. Plus if you take and pass the exam for all courses, then when you start your career, you will get 1000 renown added to your typical 500 renown.
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>Watch Officer
After you submerged and then re-surfaced. The bridge crew will return to duty, but he hangs out in the sleep quarters. You will need to put him back to bridge duty..
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>Time compression

When checking the crew members in crew management, make sure time compression is at 1. This will help prevent them from getting tired quickly..
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Further documentation can be found in a folder called "documentation" which is found in the main game directory.

Thank you for your time, have fun! :)

SH3 Video tutorial examples...

Quick over look of what was mentioned in the guide plus short cut keys to know...


http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=424058081

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=424058086

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=424058070

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Patrol Tutorial.......

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=425546002

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=425546006

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=425546007

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=425546012

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=425546014

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=425546018

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=425546020

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SH3 Video tutorial examples 2...

Patrol Tutorial continued...


http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=425546021

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=425546023

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=425546027

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=425546029

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=425546031

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=425546032

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=425546033

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=425546036

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=425546037

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SH3 Video tutorial examples 3...

Bonus vids...

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=425546038

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=425546040

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=443092432

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Short Cut Key Lay out...From The SH3 v1.0 Old Retail DVD... You can also pull up the full list in game by F1.



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SH3 Video tutorial examples 4...

These are on the understanding of the automatic torpedo lock system and ranges

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SH3 Tutorial Part 23
Automatic targeting for beginners

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=1346127045


SH3 Tutorial Part 24
Automatic targetting for beginners in combat

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=1346127049




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[Oparator Stalker]

@CAREEREVIL, sorry for late reply. By default, it is displayed when your at the career menu, where it shows your profile name and rank plus boat is on that list. It is displayed when you go to the store menu for the U-boat. I believe the upper left. You can also find it displayed at the barracks menu. The total renown for any patrol is found on the desk in the patrol log. This renown is added to your amount. So if you have 500rn, and you sink a boat worth 700rn, and a fighter worth 75rn. Your total take home is 775. When you see the amount you have, it will show 1275rn. The patrol log is just a final tally of any Renown take home if you received any. So by Default it will display. I do not know if GWX removes this. It has been a real long time since I played it.

[CAREEREVIL]

you can find what ur Renown are when you start the game. you have to click on Saved Career to get in to the saved patrols on the side you will see the list Name..Start Date..U-Boat Name..Flotilla...Patrols Completed...Renown.. i have 5246.83. i was going to look in files after i got off the patrol but found it starting up the game

[CAREEREVIL]

yes i know at base where find the renown's. im saying when i move to France ill get a type IX my next home base . i have the steam version as well don't use it . i use the dvd revival game with GWX saved on the pc .played 2 or 3 year most played game for me... im thinking i have lots renown's saved up.i never had this bad a patrol i don't sink small boats i wait for the big one's im to cheap with my Torpedoes. i may just open the file with notepad to see my renown's.but to find the cost of a type IX and grew ha ha ill take a little look

[Oparator Stalker]

@CAREEREVIL, yeah it was cool to see inside and standing next to it. When I was a kid, I use to think if I could have it, I make it work again. I have not been back yet since they put it inside. Too many stupid things going on in Chicago to make a trip.
If your in the Mediterranean, you probably not find one. In that area the Type VII was used. It was made on location there. This was easier to do and more cost efficient. So I wouldn't worry about it. You can find out how much renown you have when at base. It should show up when looking at your profile name and rank at your office, or at the store. Also your log book at base, should be at the desk, should show you the amount of renown you got for the patrol sinking. Naw I didn't read the manual. Played this game since back when it first came out on DVD 1.0 Version in the days of WINXP. Still have the box, and the convoy map that comes with it. Also have the updated DVD as well as the steam version.. lol, yeah I am a fan of the game..

[CAREEREVIL]

iam still on the Mediterranean Sea. my VIIC boats is all updated so ill have see if i can pay for a Type IX and ill need more crew mate's and update's. the Type IX boat must be updated id think? i have 5 or 4 mouth's before the Milk Cow is over there in (MAY)... iam not doing that great here in the Mediterranean just sunk 1 boat. i only saw 1 boat that was save to sink..i do not know how much renown i have saved up ? just in case i will patrol a little longer here on the Mediterranean. . have to try a diff Type U-boat to see if the Type VIIC boat is my fav any way right ha ha. Did you ever read the GWX3.0 Manual any one how plays Silent Hunter 3 will get some thing out reading it ... ur lucky to see a real U-boat... b so cool.. ty warcatt00

[Oparator Stalker]

@CAREEREVIL, I'm sorry the reply is late. By history it is the type IX that are the long range U-boats. And can go as far as Japan, because they did. These Boats were sent to the U.S. Currently there is one in the Gulf Of Mexico. True there were a few type VII that had been sent, but they were loaded up to the hilt with mainly fuel, they were expected as one way mission boats that will not return. Type VII boats are medium range attack boats. They were cost efficient to build, crew by less, and effective in wolf pack groups against convoys they were never made as long distance boats. Were the type IX cost more, crewed by more, and is really a loner U-boat that can stay out on patrol at great distances more efficient. Each boat had their roll. I am a Type IX Captain. I fell in love with this boat since I was a kid. This is because when I was a lil guy, my Auntie took me to the Chicago museum to show me the U-505. And I was aw struck.. I have visit this boat so far 4 times...

[CAREEREVIL]

oh and watching the Tutorials ... i have GWX3.0 .. do i wait till the milkcow is there in May ? can i use the deck gun without getting shot at over there jan 1942 .im watching ur Tutorial's now looking for this info.

[CAREEREVIL]

thanks, happy new year. i am about to head for the USA for the first time with my Uboat .what Uboat is the best to use? year is. jan 1942. milkcow will be there in may 1942. im using a VIIC Uboat right now... warcatt00 have a great new year!!!!

[Oparator Stalker]

@CAREEREVIL, thank you, happy holidays, and happy new year.

[CAREEREVIL]

love read ur SH3 Tutorial's