Running early-game multi-unit trains

While early-game railroading in the valley, you have probably hualed a train that required more than 1 shunter to pull.

I have run a lot of multi-unit trains in the valley, and I have some advice to for those of you that may be having a hard time.

Don't underestimate the power of these shunty bois!

Shunter locomotives are designed to be compact, but powerful.

The same applies to the DE2s in the valley. 2 axles may not give them much traction, but if you are gentle and patent, you can hual long trains easily.

Pushing the throttle of your locos and trying to gain speed is a waste of fuel and sand. Instead, set the throttle to the highest it will go without the wheels slipping, then just leave it there.

Even though you might not be going very fast, the engines will pull the train over the hill.

This method works because (as long as the wheels aren't already slipping) as the train is slowed down by the weight of the consist, the engine effectively applies more force, and the train keeps moving. Throttling up puts the wheels under too much stress too quickly, and causes the wheels to slip. Keeping the throttle at the same setting as you start going up a hill prevents the wheels from suddenly needing more traction that they don't have. The train instead effectively applies force a lot slower, and no slipping occurs.

When using this method, I would recommend having 1 shunter for every 200 tons.

Managing engine temperatures

When you are managing more than one locomotive, you probably have realized that you need to carefully monitor the temperature of each loco.

One thing that the game does tell you but you still might have missed is that the DE2 is cooled by a front radiator. The engine heats up a lot faster when you are driving backwards.

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This is exactly what to NOT do. You can see that only the front locomotive is facing fowards, while the others are facing backwards. If possible, try to have ALL of your locos facing fowards.

Going downhill

Lots of you probably were worried when you got to the top of a hill with a long, heavy train, not knowing how well your brakes will work as you head down.

No worries, because the brakes on derail valley's trains are pretty darn good! If you really want to stop a train NOW, throwing the train brakes on full stops your train pretty fast.

When running a heavy train downhill, try getting your speed down pretty low at the top, and allow the hill to give you your speed back. Then repeat this method, slowing down to 20 or 30 kph, then speeding back up using the hill, until you make it down safely.

Getting going again

Let's say you just had to stop the train for some reason. Maybe you just got to your destination, and you need to throw some switches.

Once you have stopped your train with the air brakes, go ahead and apply the independent brake, then release the air brakes.

While you throw the switches, the air lines will get refilled, and the train will be ready to move again. It also might already be moving, as the independent brakes often are not enough to hold a heavy train on a hill, so be sure to use a little caution with this method.

[Trainguyrom]

MUing DE2s is really kinda OP given the cost to operate and repair them. Only part I find myself wanting for is more speed when I have 2(or more) DE2s MUed up

[turnerdeedo]

It's impossible for the DE2 to overheat while at notch 3, so you can set it to 3 and slowly chug up the hill no problem as long as your train is light enough. There are a few random ridiculously steep grades like on the west side of food factory, the loop in the northeast, and east side of the harbor. I can't expect any normal train to be able to climb those hills so they should be avoided.

[Enderminion]

See the problem with the first section is that there are some loads that require sufficient throttle that some hills are too long to climb, the engine will overheat even if you were making progress up the hill. And starting moving once stopped, on an upslope, with an underpowered engine, is Fun.

[turnerdeedo]

Mu'd engines are smart enough to figure out if they need to be set to backwards of forwards. The reverser will be set to whatever position is appropriate.

[pkc12577]

I know that all Engines have to be powered up to get the traction from those Engines and I know the engines connected together will mirror what you do in the first engine in regards to throttle and break controls.
My question is if anyone knows the answer is if for example 2 de2's are hooked together back to back and you move the forward/reverse leaver forward will the leaver in the second engine also move forward so one engine is in forward while the second engine is in reverse or would putting the leaver in forward on one engine also put the leaver into forward on the second engine causing both Engines trying to go in opposite directions when coupled front to front or back to back.
Regards Paul.

[turnerdeedo]

No. Only locos that are turned on and have their engines running apply power to the train, even if they are MU'd.

[ArrivedKnight7]

are both locos making power when they are hooked together and one is on? or do you have to prime both?

[turnerdeedo]

For me, I find it best to always bring 1 extra DE2 along in case things go south. I like to have 1 DE2 for every 200 or so tons. Using more locos will raise your fuel and maintenance costs, so be careful about that.

Before you get the MU license, you have to jump between locos to adjust each one, but once you get the licnse, you just connect the blue cable and all of the controls are mirrored on each loco. If you apply the brakes on one loco, all other connected ones apply their brakes too, witch is useful to get some extra independent braking force. To keep an MU'd loco from applying throttle, (the control levers will still move, meaning that things like brakes will work) just turn the loco off.

[ArrivedKnight7]

can you use 2 DE2's at once and do both need to be on in order to get maximum performance? I've used one for the most part but anything over 400t and you begin to have problems stopping and starting. I know it's better to use either the steamer or the DE6 but i'm going the cheap oddball route.