How to Build the Satsuma [UPDATED]

A simple and step by step guide on making the Satsuma.

How to Build the Satsuma

Lot of people don't know how to build the car properly, so here's a guide, from the MSC wikia.
If you do exactly like it is written, your car should be running perfectly.

Before beginning, you should go to the shop and build food and beer. Take the Gas Can with you and fill it with gasoline at the shop.
Buy a fan belt, 3 clutch/brake fluids, 1 motor oil and 1 coolant.

Wheels are inside the haunted house.

ENGINE----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Crankshaft to Block

Crankshaft Main Bearings-6x9mm

Pistons -8x7mm

Head Gasket to Block

Cylinder Head-10x7mm

Rocker Shaft-5x8mm

Camshaft-2x5mm (Goes in a hole on left side of engine.)

Camshaft Gear-1x10mm

Timing Chain

Timing Cover-6x6mm

Water pump-5x7mm

Crankshaft Pulley-1x11mm

Waterpump Pulley-4x7mm

Distributor-1x6mm

Alternator-1x7mm, 1x10mm, 1x Screwdriver (Put the Fan Belt on before you tighten the Alternator.)

Fan Belt

Engine Plate

Starter-2x7mm

Carburator-4x8mm

Headers-5x8mm

Flywheel-6x7mm

Clutch Disk to Clutch Cover Plate

Clutch Pressure Plate to Clutch Disk

Clutch Assembly-6x6mm

Oil Pan-8x7mm

Oil drain plug 1x13mm

Gearbox-6x7mm,1x10mm

Drive gear-7x6mm

Motor Hoist to Block-2x10mm

(Lower the hoist till it is near the Block, tighten the bolts to attach.)

Adjust Valves-screwdriver

(There are 18 total settings for the valves. The nuts will spin infinitely, but scroll down 18 times to the bottom, then scroll up to desired setting. 1-6 tick, 7-13 do not tick, 14-18 tick. 7 is the preferred setting.)

Rocker Cover-6x7mm

Fuel Pump-2x7mm

Air Filter-2x6mm (You might want to wait until the engine is in the car and the hood is installed to install this.)

CHASSIS----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Subframe-4x10m

Move the Motor Hoist to the Engine Bay, Lower it carefully and when it is in the 3 correct position bolts should appear at the Motor mounts for you to tighten with a 11mm spanner.

Steering Rack-4x9mm

Steering Column-2x8mm

Wishbones-2x10mm each

Spindles-1x12mm each

Steering Rods-1x12mm each (Wait to tighten until Struts are installed.)

Disc Brakes-1x14mm each (14mm Bolt Shared with Halfshafts, install Halfshafts before you tighten.)

Halfshafts-3x9mm, 1x14mm each (Bolt Shared with Disc Brake.)

Struts-4x9mm,3x10mm, 1x12mm (12mm Bolt Shared with Steering Rods.)

Steering Rod Adjust-1x14mm each (Eyeball it the best you can for now.)

Trailing Arms-2x12mm each

Coil Springs

Shock absorbers-1x12mm,2x6mm each

Drum Brakes-1x14mm each

Wheels-4x13mm each(You may want to pick the chassis up with the forklift from the side now as it tends to slide around otherwise.)

Hubcaps

Spark Plugs (No spanner required, but must be tightened.)

Battery

Electronics(to body)-2x8mm

Fuel strainer-1x8mm

Radiator-4x7mm

Radiator Hoses

Oil Filter (Same as Spark Plugs, must be tightened.)

Clutch Master Cylinder-1x9mm, 2x8mm

Brake Master Cylinder-1x9mm, 2x8mm

Clutch Line-2x7mm

Brake Line-8x7mm

Brake line (at wheel, one each)-4x7mm

Steering Wheel-1x10mm

Fuel Tank-7x11mm,1x12mm (at fuel line)

Gear Stick-3x6mm

Gear Linkage-3x5mm

Dash-2x10mm

RPM Gauge (or Clock if you prefer, attaches to Dashboard Meters)-2x7mm

Dashboard Meters-2x6mm

Radio

Headlights-2x7mm each

Grille-2x6mm

Bumpers-2x8mm each

Driver/Passenger Seat-4x9mm each

Hand Brake-4x8mm,1x5mm

Exhaust Pipe-3x7mm (This can be a pain, you will need to take the chassis off the forklift for this. Jack up one side of the car with the floor jack, attach the Exhaust Pipe near the handbrake. Two bolts at the header, one in the rear.)

Exhaust Muffler-1x7mm

Fenders-5x5mm each

Doors-4x10mm each

Fuel Tank Pipe

Boot Lid-4x6mm

Rear Lenses

Back Panel or Subwoofer Panel

Hood-4x6mm (You'll have to remove the Air Filter to install this)

CARBURETTOR TUNING----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Easy way: "unscrew" carburettor 30 times (scroll down), and then scroll up 24 times. It may not give the best performance results, but it will still run without any problems.

WIRING----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

There are a total of 24 wires that can be attached. They do not need to be attached in any particular order, and some wires are not required for the car to start.

After all the wires have been attached, bolt in the 8mm positive bolt on the battery (red), then the ground bolt (black). Tightening the ground bolt first causes sparking, and not disconnecting the ground bolt will make the car to catch fire.

Warning: Make sure to always untighten at least the ground (black) side of the battery when attaching wires, as neglecting to do so may result in death by electrocution.

Updated Guide

Before building
There are some things that could save a lot of hassle during and after the car assembly:

Most damageable parts are in critical condition at the start of the game. These parts can be serviced at the repair shop, but the smarter, though slightly more expensive option is to buy new ones from the repair shop shelf. Replacing everything will be very expensive, but all parts will eventually get replaced anyway. The easiest way to make a quick buck is to take the wrecked cars to Fleetari, but there are also other ways to make money.
Ordering the fuel mixture gauge and ratchet set from the parts catalog will prove very useful for the initial assembly of the car, as well as for tuning it later on. In total these items will cost 908 mk, and will take some time to arrive. This will also require two trips to Teimo's Shop; first to take the envelope to the post box, and later to pay for and pick up the packages when the shop is open.
Note: The envelope should be taken to the store at the same time as the initial grocery trip, as the payment will only happen once the packages have arrived at the shop.
Getting started
Below is a complete list of car parts with their bolt sizes and quantities required for the car to run, for example: 6x9mm is 6 bolts/nuts with the 9mm spanner or ratchet.

Press F to open the spanner or ratchet set and then press 2 to enter tool mode, press 1 to go back to normal mode, pick a spanner or ratchet with LMB while in tool mode. Spanners and ratchets cannot be placed back inside the sets, the normal hand mode will still function normally regardless of whether a tool has been picked up or not.

Engine
Crankshaft to block
Main bearings (3) - 2x9mm each
Pistons (4) - 2x7mm each
Head gasket to block
Cylinder head - 10x7mm
Spark plugs (4) - Scroll up with sparkplug wrench until tightened
The spark plugs must be bought from Teimo's Shop in the form of spark plug boxes. This is included in the shopping list.
Rocker shaft - 5x8mm
Camshaft - 2x5mm (goes in a hole on left side of engine)
Camshaft gear - 1x10mm
The camshaft must be aligned correctly to avoid damaging the engine when starting the car. This can be done by using the 10mm spanner/ratchet after fully tightening the camshaft gear, the gear will rotate after being bolted in.
There is a small notched arrow which should be pointing directly towards the crankshaft.
Timing chain
Timing cover - 6x6mm
Water pump - 5x7mm
Crankshaft pulley - 1x11mm
Water pump pulley - 4x7mm
Distributor - Screwdriver (goes to the side of the engine, where the spark plugs are)
The distributor must be adjusted properly in order to maximise power output and minimise part wear. The general idea is to have the distributor as advanced as possible, more information can be found here.
Alternator - 1x7mm, 1x10mm, screwdriver
Put the alternator belt on before you tighten the alternator. Tighten the two bolts to secure the alternator, then adjust the belt tension by scrolling the mouse wheel while looking at the alternator to change the alternator position. Rotate it until the pulley is touching the belt, then tighten the screw.
Once the engine is installed and running, come back and properly adjust the alternator position with the engine running by loosening that screw again. Loosen the belt tension (scroll down on alternator) until the belt starts to squeal, then tighten it just enough it stops. If your alternator belt is too tight it will eventually snap. You can buy a new alternator belt at the store if yours is worn down or has snapped.
Alternator belt
Engine plate
Starter - 2x7mm (leave the front bolt untightened later for wiring, otherwise you will have to untighten again later)
Carburator - 4x8mm
Headers - 5x8mm
Flywheel - 6x7mm
Clutch disc to clutch cover plate
Clutch pressure plate to clutch disc
Clutch assembly - 6x6mm
Oilpan - 8x7mm, 1x13mm
Inspection cover - 4x7mm (shared with gearbox)
You can remove this inspection cover later for tuning
This part is not required and the bolts can be tightened without it being installed
Gearbox - 6x7mm (4 of which are shared with above), 1x10mm (lower middle of engine block, right below headers)
Drive gear - 7x6mm
Motor hoist to block - 2x10mm
Lower the hoist, and align it with the hoist notches on the engine. The hoist is in the correct position for tightening once a faint clink can be heard. Tighten the bolts and the engine will be attached to the hoist.
Adjust valves - screwdriver
Can also be done while the car is running, see more information
Rocker cover - 6x7mm
Fuel pump - 2x7mm
Airfilter - 2x6mm
Oil filter - by hand (scroll)
Chassis
You may want to jack the body up off the ground using the floor jack. Or you can push the car inside of the garage with the blue van (this slightly damages the car-frame)

It is recommended to pick up the suspensions from the front if you can, as it tends to tip off as it gets weighed down by installing new components. Otherwise just be mindful as you go.

Alternatively you could jack the car up and build the suspension and push the car into your garage, giving you access to the underside easily.

Sub frame - 4x10mm
Steering rack - 4x9mm
Steering column - 2x8mm
Wishbones (2) - 2x10mm each
Spindles (2) - 1x12mm each
Steering rods (2) - 1x12mm each (shared with struts, install them before tightening)
Disc brakes (2) - 1x14mm each (shared with halfshafts, install them before tightening)
Halfshafts (2) - 3x9mm each (Shared with gearbox, but it doesn't matter if you tighten them before you install the engine), 1x14mm each (shared with disc brakes)
Struts (2) - 4x9mm each, 3x10mm each, 1x12mm each (shared with steering rods)
Steering rod adjustment - 1x14mm each
The adjustment has 120 clicks total travel stop-to-stop. Turn both of them out all the way to the stop and then bring them back the other way with exactly 60 clicks. This is dead straight-and-center.
Trail arms (2) - 2x12mm each
Coil springs (2)
Shock absorbers (2) - 1x12mm each, 2x6mm each
Drum brakes (2) - 1x14mm each
Wheels (4) - 4x13mm each
Mount the engine
Move the motor hoist to the engine bay, lower it carefully and when it is in the correct position 3 bolts should appear at the motor mounts for you to tighten with an 11mm spanner/ratchet.
Warning: Be careful when handling the motor hoist when the engine is attached to it, sudden movements may send the engine flying across the garage, requiring it to be re-attached.
Finishing up
Hubcaps (4)
Battery - Connect with Wiring mess (guide)
Electrics - 2x8mm
Fuel strainer - 1x8mm
Radiator - 4x7mm
Radiator hoses (3) = 1, 2, 2 (screw driver)
Clutch master cylinder - 1x9mm, 2x8mm
Brake master cylinder - 1x9mm, 2x8mm
Clutch lining - 2x7mm
Brake lining - 11x7mm (6 line nuts and 1 bolt in the engine bay, 1 line nut at each wheel)
Steering wheel - 1x10mm
Fuel tank - 7x11mm, 1x12mm (at fuel lining)
Gear stick - 3x6mm
Gear linkage - 3x5mm
Dashboard - 2x10mm (one bolt in glove box)
RPM or clock gauge (attach to dashboard meters) - 2x7mm
Dashboard meters - 2x6mm (both bolts in glove box)
Radio
Headlights (2) - 2x7mm each (putting in front light wiring beforehand recommended)
Light bulbs (2)
Grille - 2x6mm
Bumpers (2) - 2x8mm each
Rear seat - 2x9mm
Front seats (2) - 4x9mm each
Handbrake - 1x5mm, 4x8mm
Bolt the 5mm bolt after the other ones, otherwise the handbrake will fall off.
Exhaust pipe - 3x7mm
Exhaust muffler - 1x7mm
Doors (2) - 4x10mm each
Fenders (2) - 5x5mm each
Fuel tank pipe
Bootlid - 4x6mm
Rear lights (2)
Back panel or subwoofer panel
Hood - 4x6mm
Wiring - Wiring all of the car's electrics will be the final step before completion. A full guide for wiring the car can be found here.
Fill up the car's fluids by unscrewing the caps on the engine components, then holding the containers upside down over them until a white bar appears (the fluid containers don't have caps). The clutch cylinder uses brake fluid. The gas can, coolant, brake fluid and motor oil aren't infinite. Tighten the caps again when you are finished. You can als

[floppy]

dude i did all of this even the wiring and the car wont turn on when i try to turn it on nothing no sound can someone help?

[Titanic Stuff, And More!]

"for example: 6x9mm is 6 bolts/nuts with the 9mm spanner or ratchet." nice. needed this to help

[benny.xc]

why is it when ever i open the door the fender comes off? its really annoying

[Stärke im Inneren x)]

THANKS. ITS WORKING!

[B3A5TY]

i built the car nearly now :)

[B3A5TY]

i died when the game was getting good ;c

[Kuba]

the wheels arent there for a long time but get the boat and boat roughly straight accross from the dock and bring the sledge hammer to get the gt wheels at the shed there beside a small house

[nicholas92]

anyone else have no wheels in the garage anymore when starting a new game?

[Nothing]

how do i get the spark plugs

[Jimbo]

Is there no mention of aligning timing system?