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討論區規矩與守則
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No, not really. I find this seasonal exclusive bs extremely annoying and it got even more annoying with FH5. Just let me drive the bloody cars, ffs. Still not as bad as the grind in the current Gran Turismo.
Definitely RimWorld. If you're even remotely interested in how that game looks, then get it. It's the best of it's kind.
Noita is a different beast (action roguelike, which isn't on your list and may be a genre you hate), but it's a fantastic game with a ton of depth and replayability. It's just brutal in difficulty. Game absolutely slaps you.
its a stupid game where you play arcade games. its pretty fun
I personally im very concerned with inflation, infact im worried about keeping roof over my head and keeping my kids fed but I could invest in shocks, gold, silver or what not but im too noob when it comes to investing in shocks and shares and for gold, were would I keep large amounts of gold/silver?
But with a high interest account, you will always accumulate interest that compounds overtime. at 7% for example, if you save that $80, the interest would be $5.60 = $85.60 then next time the interest will be on $85.60, you you make another $5.99 = $91.59 and so on but savings is a long term investment, (PS my maths might be a little off here and anything in the market can change to affect money).
https://store.steampowered.com/app/548430/Deep_Rock_Galactic/
While games of this genre don't usually have much longevity, this game in particular boasts great procedural generation of maps, so every mission feels like a unique challenge.
And if you're alright with horrible graphics but care about a deep turn-based combat system, then you could try out
https://store.steampowered.com/app/259680/Tales_of_MajEyal/
It's free on its official website. The paid steam version just gives you donator benefits.
To break it down, between the four of us, we have a 401k, two Roth IRAs, a rollover IRA, two college investment funds and a house.
Now, should go without saying, living expenses are priority. This includes food, mortgage, etc. After that you worry about investing.
Generally, if you have access to a 401k, contributing to the match percentage is going to be your best investment, so we always do that. It might or might not be dollar for dollar, but pretty much any match is going to positively smoke returns via interest. For example, if you're making 6% in some other opportunity vs 4% in your 401k with a 50% employer match, your alternative opportunity won't catch up to the 401k for 245 months. And 100% match is not especially uncommon. Now, this was a quick n dirty calculation so I might be a little off, but hopefully the point is clear: always contribute to your 401k match percentage before you do any other investing. No other investment that's widely available earns even 50% instantly.
After that, most of your debts are generally going to outpace investments, so focus on getting those to zero. We killed our student loans and etc in our first year after college, partly because we didn't have a ton to begin with and partly because we prepaid a ton. The advantage to a prepayment in a loan is that it goes directly to your principal. For example, if you owe 20k at 6%, every month the lender is going to add 0.5% of what's left to your principal. And as you'll see (if you pay attention), early on, if you make minimum payments, this leaves a disgustingly small amount that your principal actually decreases. Like literally ten bucks-ish. But if you pay the minimum plus (for example) $100, then all of that $100 whittles down your principal directly. Which in turn means your next payment will be more effective. Never make minimum payments if you can help it. Sometimes you can't. But if you can.
After you're debt free (with some potential exceptions that you probably won't have to worry about unless you're some kind of career investor or already own a home), the next biggest drain is usually going to be rent. If you're paying rent, you're gettinf no equity. You could be paying a mortgage and gaining equity instead, and it's probably cheaper too. The beauty of equity is it turns your mortgage payment into a payment to yourself. Near the end of your loan, for example, you might be paying $1500/mo out of your pocket, but $1200 of that might go to equity, so you're really only losing the $300 that goes to interest. I hope that makes sense. So look into saving for a down payment on a home. There are different levels here... we saved 20% for our first home to avoid Private Mortgage Insurance, but that was a really cheap house and it was early last decade when homeownership was a lot more feasible. If you can do 20%, by all means do but don't spend a ton of time paying rent to do it.
Next, you should really take a look at your other investment opportunities by risk and yield, using historical data and all that jazz. But honestly, that's too much work, and we also have other priorities. We contribute a carefully-calculated amount each month to the boys' college investment accounts. I don't think they have these everywhere, even in the US, but we have them where I live, so we take advantage. Basically, we picked the monthly contribution to land each boy at around $40k for college by 18 years old. Actually, it looks like we're going to overshoot it, if the curve continues as extrapolated. But what we don't spend on college (even if they decide they don't want to go to college), we'll get back.
We focus on our Roths next. A Roth IRA also has a cheat code on it, in that it's tax-deferred. Meaning that instead of being taxed when you put money in, you're taxed when you take money out. Might not seem like the greatest of distinctions at first, but the difference is that you have a higher principle to gain interest on. Basically, the US government in the 90's administration suspected Social Security was gonna go down the crapper and introduced it as a pre-emptive apology. There's a maximum amount that you can contribute per year... we usually max one and make a little progress on the other.
The rollover IRA is honestly there because we screwed up. It's the contents of a 401k from a previous job that we didn't manually transfer to a better type of account before it was too late. Same rules as a traditional IRA, meaning tax is paid upfront. Naturally, we just use this to hold and accrue interest on its existing funds and don't really contribute to it.
What's left, we allocate as we feel is best between extra mortgage payments and emergency funds/other savings. Never believe what the "just save money" people tell you--you need to have a specific purpose for savings. Otherwise, that money should be invested instead. Now a specific purpose can be emergencies, but you aren't likely to need ten digits' worth of emergency money if you have properly insured your assets. Our savings all has a specific purpose--Christmas, vacation, and "the bank." "The bank" is basically a logical fund in our savings that we treat like a bank. We borrow money from it when we need something big-ish and pay it back with interest. But this interest is money we actually pay to ourselves. This lets us essentially avoid taking out a loan from a real bank. Even, after doing it for a decade, for things like cars.
So that was a huge infodump and I dunno how much specifically applies to you but more than anything the point is: do your research and think about what's going to benefit you most.
Omfg, it is...
https://store.steampowered.com/app/1224120/Jerking_Off_In_Class_Simulator
→ OP, if you like cozy games, farm management, tourism, and such, here are two titles:
https://store.steampowered.com/app/1158160/Coral_Island
https://store.steampowered.com/app/1592110/Spirit_of_the_Island
I personally had good times with Portia and Sandrock is the sequel:
https://store.steampowered.com/app/666140/My_Time_At_Portia
https://store.steampowered.com/app/1084600/My_Time_at_Sandrock
And I heard good things about this one:
https://store.steampowered.com/app/1086940/Baldurs_Gate_3
** Rimworld is great but is VERY EXPENSIVE with all those DLC's.
*** Coral Island has a plethora of content in the game and more is still being added.
CTR is just superior to both this and Mario Cart. Too bad it never made it to Steam.
Yeah they are fun.
The other ones, not on here, but I think there are official Nintendo approved emulators on the Google play store. Not entirely sure, but I would imagine they would want to take them down if they weren't. I haven't bought them, but I would love to play some old games, and find a nice way to attach some kind of Nintendo controller to it
I would love to have plenty of physical copies of games again. I definitely don't mind getting the actual games.
Interesting read, makes sense