Logitech F710 connection issue

[Hstudio]

Hi, I've bought the new logitech f710 gamepad but there is a problem when I using the gamepad. the d-pad and the left stick sometimes not respod and makes the player moves by itself. I have this gamepad almost a year now and I did'nt use much since. I don't know this is my gamepad that is broken or this is my computer problem. Is this issue happen to anyone? Is it the gamepad or is it windows its a problem? I'm using windows 7. What should I do? I felt bad about not using the gamepad for a long time and also waste a lot of money.

[Hextravert]

I noticed the exact same problems when it was brand new.

It's probably not your computer; there are way too many similar stories over at Amazon.

There is nothing you can do, I'm afraid. I suggest getting a wired controller next time.

Originally posted by Hstudios Productions:

Hi, I've bought the new logitech f710 gamepad but there is a problem when I using the gamepad. the d-pad and the left stick sometimes not respod and makes the player moves by itself. I have this gamepad almost a year now and I did'nt use much since. I don't know this is my gamepad that is broken or this is my computer problem. Is this issue happen to anyone? Is it the gamepad or is it windows its a problem? I'm using windows 7. What should I do? I felt bad about not using the gamepad for a long time and also waste a lot of money.

[⚡🍉OverlordTomala🍉⚡]

Try removing the batteries, pressing the A button for 10 seconds then putting the batteries back in. Does it still do it? I've had similar issues with one of the trigger buttons and discharged the controller seemed to help.

[In Game Kamera]

I'm experiencing the same issue...I noticed that the dongle was plugged into a usb port which Windows turns off to save power. I just turned that option off for the port. Hopefully it works...Will report back.

[Gilmore]

Originally posted by G.I. JOEL:

I'm experiencing the same issue...I noticed that the dongle was plugged into a usb port which Windows turns off to save power. I just turned that option off for the port. Hopefully it works...Will report back.

The hardware section might be able to help you more than us.

[Waszipa]

Same issues here: Since this seem to worsen in Win10 i figured G.I. JOEL was right and he was.

Fix:
1: Removed old hardware device/drivers in "hardware devices"
2: Went to PowerSavings advanced options
3: Find USB-settings, expand until you see "activated", deactivate this option
4: Search for hardware changes in "hardware devices"
5: chose the controller and manually set drivers from driver list to Xbox controller for window (some may need Xbox remote controller for windows)

This has solved the problem on my setup

[In Game Kamera]

Originally posted by Waszipa:

Same issues here: Since this seem to worsen in Win10 i figured G.I. JOEL was right and he was.

Fix:
1: Removed old hardware device/drivers in "hardware devices"
2: Went to PowerSavings advanced options
3: Find USB-settings, expand until you see "activated", deactivate this option
4: Search for hardware changes in "hardware devices"
5: chose the controller and manually set drivers from driver list to Xbox controller for window (some may need Xbox remote controller for windows)

This has solved the problem on my setup

Happy that this worked for you too. Enjoy

[Waszipa]

Note: Didn't work on my friends PC. Well ½ worked, the reciver needs to be max 50cm away on his setup to make it work USB extention was used to attach it to the back of his monitor. Futher away gave frequent connections errors after 30-60 mins of gaming (errors as described in OP)

[Host Light]

Originally posted by Waszipa:

Same issues here: Since this seem to worsen in Win10 i figured G.I. JOEL was right and he was.

Fix:
1: Removed old hardware device/drivers in "hardware devices"
2: Went to PowerSavings advanced options
3: Find USB-settings, expand until you see "activated", deactivate this option
4: Search for hardware changes in "hardware devices"
5: chose the controller and manually set drivers from driver list to Xbox controller for window (some may need Xbox remote controller for windows)

This has solved the problem on my setup

Don t work for me

[Waszipa]

Try placing the reciver VERY close to the controller. On my setup i am max 75-80cm away, at around 85+cm connection problems start, at around 100cm i got no connection at all

These recivers seem to be EXTREMLY sensetive, low power devices. Hence the issue with sleeping USB ports. My guess is that on some boards it'll misjudge the low power draw as a mistake and turn it off. Just using a extender would solve this as the add resistance in the wire should make for a more consistant and higher power draw

The issue is that the controller loses the connection for a brief secound and the last pushed button will then remain as if it was still pushed untill the controller reconnects and tells the game "nope, no buttons in use". This is also why sometimes, when it connects again, you'll jump a little around and what no, since the controller now has a small series of commands, you gave it when it was disconnected, it sendes all at once

All in all this is a pretty bad produkt. The controller is great but this absolutely ridiculess reciver they paired it with makes it worthless in some cases (like ours)

[Sawtaytoes]

I've had the same issue. I have 4 of these and thought it was a 2.4GHz issue. Sounds like others have had the same problem.

My only replacement has been PS4 controllers, and they don't feel the same and seem to have more input latency.

Questions for You Guys:
- Are you experiencing these issues with or without the extension plugged in that comes with the unit?
- Does it happen if you plug into a powered USB port (such as a powered hub)?
- Does this happen in D-Input mode?

Other Questions
- Does changing the driver to Xbox controller really fix it?
I used to have this setup in Windows 8 (way back), and it didn't do a thing.

- Is it really fixed by playing close?
I remember, using the extension off a powered USB hub, and I think I still had the issue.

- Did completely powering off the controller and pressing the A button 10 times fix the issue?
I've never tried this.

[Paulo Teixeira]

Originally posted by Waszipa:

Try placing the reciver VERY close to the controller. On my setup i am max 75-80cm away, at around 85+cm connection problems start, at around 100cm i got no connection at all

These recivers seem to be EXTREMLY sensetive, low power devices. Hence the issue with sleeping USB ports. My guess is that on some boards it'll misjudge the low power draw as a mistake and turn it off. Just using a extender would solve this as the add resistance in the wire should make for a more consistant and higher power draw

The issue is that the controller loses the connection for a brief secound and the last pushed button will then remain as if it was still pushed untill the controller reconnects and tells the game "nope, no buttons in use". This is also why sometimes, when it connects again, you'll jump a little around and what no, since the controller now has a small series of commands, you gave it when it was disconnected, it sendes all at once

All in all this is a pretty bad produkt. The controller is great but this absolutely ridiculess reciver they paired it with makes it worthless in some cases (like ours)

Thanks for the tip Waszipa. In my case it was the USB port that was turning the receiver off from time to time.

I have this gamepad for so long i thought it had broken. I plugged my receivers all together into a USB extender ... the F710 gamepad, headset, wireless keyboard and solved the prob.

I also usually use a PS4 controller with bluetooth dongle, i only have one problem.
When switching from DS4 to F710 many games dont accept the transition, its not automatic like from gamepads to mouse and keyboard. I have to go the controller options in Steam settings ... I dont know if theres a more efficient way to switch from DS4 to F710.

[Host Light]

Originally posted by Paulo Teixeira:

Originally posted by Waszipa:

Try placing the reciver VERY close to the controller. On my setup i am max 75-80cm away, at around 85+cm connection problems start, at around 100cm i got no connection at all

These recivers seem to be EXTREMLY sensetive, low power devices. Hence the issue with sleeping USB ports. My guess is that on some boards it'll misjudge the low power draw as a mistake and turn it off. Just using a extender would solve this as the add resistance in the wire should make for a more consistant and higher power draw

The issue is that the controller loses the connection for a brief secound and the last pushed button will then remain as if it was still pushed untill the controller reconnects and tells the game "nope, no buttons in use". This is also why sometimes, when it connects again, you'll jump a little around and what no, since the controller now has a small series of commands, you gave it when it was disconnected, it sendes all at once

All in all this is a pretty bad produkt. The controller is great but this absolutely ridiculess reciver they paired it with makes it worthless in some cases (like ours)

Thanks for the tip Waszipa. In my case it was the USB port that was turning the receiver off from time to time.

I have this gamepad for so long i thought it had broken. I plugged my receivers all together into a USB extender ... the F710 gamepad, headset, wireless keyboard and solved the prob.

I also usually use a PS4 controller with bluetooth dongle, i only have one problem.
When switching from DS4 to F710 many games dont accept the transition, its not automatic like from gamepads to mouse and keyboard. I have to go the controller options in Steam settings ... I dont know if theres a more efficient way to switch from DS4 to F710.

Me too man the problem was with the usb

[THE DEATH]

#### WORKING ###

I can confirm that F710 controller have exellent connection with USB-splitter, that uses one slot for USB 2.0 flash with led indicator(yes with LED, or will have problems with controller again if without LED) and other slot for Logitech USB reciever.

I try with other USB 3.0 Flashes without LED indicator, but in this way controller still have connection issues and lag.
But with USB Flash with LED indicator in one slot, controller NEVER have drop connection or lag! And i play a lot time to test it.

So, my config is this:
USB splitter to 2xUSB whitch is plugged to USB 3.0 port.
1 port: 8GB USB 2.0 A-Data XPG with LED,
2 port: Logitech USB reciever.
And no modification to drivers or anyting else.
My OS is Linux Ubuntu 18.04 if that matter.

[Sawtaytoes]

That sounds really strange. Also, where would we find a USB splitter and why the USB flash drive?

[THE DEATH]

It can be a USB flash or some other USB device to keep USB port bussy and not sleep, because Logitech USB reciever need so less energy, that USB is put to sleep from time to time.
USB splitters are in any hi-tech magazine ot computer store.
Also i found that in Logitech controllers, batterry lasts so long. Maybe monts, years...? Never had to replace or recharge. For Xbox and PS4 i know that batterry can last like 12 hours of play and then need recharge. With Logitech, that is not happen, because that is not a Bluetooth wireless, but a wi-fi connection. There are no lag from controller to PC, if connection not break.