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Laporkan kesalahan penerjemahan
ram speed is directly proportional to apu performance
if its usng 1333 cl9 ram
going to a 1866 cl9 kit will gain about 40%
to compare kits
speed / cl = value (higher = better)
only better cpu is a amd a10 5750m /w 8650G
@JLH, amd apu = gpu+cpu on the same chip
You can absolutely upgrade your APU. I upgraded my factory installed A4-4300m to a A8-4500m in my HP G6 2210 US. You can upgrade to ANY compatible APU in the 15 series including but not limited to the A8 4500m 7650g, A10 4600m 7660g and many more. Once the upgrade is made you will see a variable increase in gaming performance based on the APU you choose. Currently the average price of the A8 4500m 7650g is $30-50 and the A10 4600m 7660g is $79-120. The prices vary depending on whether or not you are searching for used or new. I will assist you during the installation process if needed. Send me a friend request and when you obtain the APU we'll go from there.
I am one of the most experienced and knowledgable volunteer techs on Steam. If you have anymore questions please, don't hesitate to ask.
Whatever RAM frequency the laptop comes with, use that if u change RAM.
Or at least look up it's specs and see what ranges of RAM (and max ram) it supports.
AMD desktops and laptops that have a APU (or FX CPU on desktops) should be able to support between 1333 - 1866 RAM by default, without any manual OC (or XMP/DOCP). But do not go crazy and buy expensive low latency (lower CL/CAS timings). But make sure of the RAM voltage. Some laptops now require u to use 1.35V RAM. Otherwise, stick to using 1.5V RAM. Nothing above 1.5V should be used. As most laptops BIOS (unless it's a fairly high end expensive laptop) do not have the available BIOS options to apply or change such settings. So if u buy 1.6/1.65V RAM for a laptop, most likely u will run into problems since u have no way to lower the voltage. But overall anything above 1.55V is usually not even supports by most desktops/laptops made since around 2010/2011.
If your laptop came with a 5400/5900 RPM HDD, and u wish to continue using a HDD (instead of upgrading to SSD) then change out the OEM HDD inside for a performance HDD that has 7200rpm, like a Samsung M8 or WD Scorpio Black.
If your laptop has an optical drive, it can most likely be swapped out for a 2.5" HDD caddy. In which you could then switch your OS HDD over to the caddy and install an SSD in the place where the HDD was installed originally. Then install your OS fresh to the SSD and use the HDD for games and backup. Then to use the old optical drive while your SSD and HDD are installed, simply buy a compatible USB adapter for the optical drive. Which u will most likely rarely use anyway.
Overall, as far as staying with the default components and/or running into issues with these, that is what your warranty coverage is for. Just take into account whether it is Standard Warranty -vs- Accidental Warranty. As with standard, if u spill a drink on your laptop, U fix it. If it is accidental coverage, they fix it, no questions. Standard will only cover the basics and should u have a premature failure that u didn't cause, meaning a piece of hardware went bad, then yes they will cover that. But overall Accidental coverage is the best, but will cost u more. But it's worth it should u spill a drink on your laptop, or it broke from being dropped, dog knocked it over and broke it, etc. It's worth it should your Motherboard/CPU/GPU/Screen go up, as those are very expensive parts.
Most CPU and GPU chips are soldered to a motherboard/ daughter board. Some are a socket like desktops have. But most do not have a socket with up-gradable CPU/APU. While the GPU is sometimes up-gradable via it's smaller daughter board being replaceable with a similar spec'ed GPU, they too are usually not interchangeable though. Depends on your laptop's motherboard specs.
And no do not think u are going to go buy a cheaper model laptop and upgrade it's CPU or GPU. As those usually will use a cheaper/low-speced motherboard that will only support a lower range of CPUs, Voltages, etc.
Overall, if in doubt, either research your exact laptop model more to find out or let a tech take it apart for you and see what can be changed.
Also look for take-down videos on your model, u might be able to see the full motherboard better this way and things of that sort. Not to mention, learning the proper steps that go into taking your laptop apart and putting back together again.
In 90% of laptops, usually only the following are up-gradable.
> RAM
> Storage Drives (HDD/SSD/ODD)
> Screen ~ Some models offer various screen hardware options, such as a higher quality 1080p screen option and/or replacement. Or model differences, such as Anti-Glare surfaced version.
> Mini PCI-E slots ~ If applicable, may allow for m-SATA devices, such as small SSD, or caching SSD to be added/changed. As well as changing the PCI-E WiFi card. Some laptops also support BlueTooth and/or WLAN, but often do not have the more expensive WiFi card installed to support such features by default. As this is usually something optional, or that more expensive laptops would offer.
thats a socket
the cpu can be upgraded, but its not really worth it
Overall, thinking that u will go out and buy a cheaper laptop and upgrade it's CPU/APU/GPU is not very realistic.
Absolutely pending you purchase the compatible APU that is compatible, as in this case the 204 pin FS1 socket. Also note that APU's in family 15 are generally 35 watts due to the low power conumption state neccessary to maintain proper operating temperatures. Against what is commonly thought. Todays standard mass production mid-high end range laptops in the same series/family are all outfitted with the same mother board and socket to reduce production time and cost. Thus, if you buy the lowest model in the family series you can in fact upgrade at a much cheaper cost!
In the case of the Hp G6 (15 series family) below I have listed the APU's available for each model for your convenience. Each of the APU's, I have listed below are interchangable and are NOT soldered to the mother board. You must simply disassemble the laptops casing and internal components. This does take some time but, as I stated before can be done fairly easily pending you have patience. Please note that you will need thermal paste to complete the upgrade.
A4-4300M B0 2 2.5 GHz 3.0 GHz 1 MB 25x 0.8125 - 1.3 HD 7420G 128:8:4 480 MHz 655 MHz DDR3-1600 35 W FS1r2 May 15, 2012 AM4300DEC23HJ
A6-4400M 2.7 GHz 3.2 GHz 27x HD 7520G 192:12:4 496 MHz 685 MHz AM4400DEC23HJ
A8-4500M 4 1.9 GHz 2.8 GHz 2× 2 MB 19x HD 7640G 256:16:8 AM4500DEC44HJ
A4-5150M 2 2.7 GHz 3.3 GHz 1 MB HD 8350G 128:8:4 533 MHz 720 MHz DDR3-1600 35 W FS1r2 Q1 2013 AM5150DEC23HL
A6-5350M 2.9 GHz 3.5 GHz HD 8450G 192:12:4 533 MHz 720 MHz DDR3-1600 FS1r2 Q1 2013 AM5350DEC23HL
A8-5550M 4 2.1 GHz 3.1 GHz 4 MB HD 8550G 256:16:8 515 MHz 720 MHz DDR3-1600 FS1r2 Q1 2013 AM5550DEC44HL
A10-5750M 2.5 GHz 3.5 GHz HD 8650G 384:24:8 533 MHz 720 MHz DDR3-1866 FS1r2 Q1 2013 AM5750DEC44HL
A10-4600M 2.3 GHz 3.2 GHz 23x HD 7660G 384:24:8 AM4600DEC44HJ
low power
I hope this clarifies a few of the questions for upgrading the HP G6 and has also helped others understand the fundamentals behind a laptop upgrade. If there are anymore questions, I will be happy to bring some clarity to the subject. As I stated earlier, I will be happy to assist anyone interested in upgrading their laptop step by step. Also anyone interested in how to get the most out of their current laptops configuration by way of tweaks ask away!
Thanks for reading! G
With perhaps the exception to preinstalled RAM and/or Drives. As I don't mind if it comes with 5400rpm HDD, cause I switch that out for a good 7200rpm HDD or an SSD anyways. But buying an SSD from the OEM when configuring a laptop purchase online can be expensive. They often charge way too much to change certain components.
Another thing to consider, your installed RAM and Drives in an OEM system (laptop or desktop) are all covered by your OEM warranty plan. Not the hardware's manufacture. So it might have a WD or Samsung HDD inside, but that is only covered by the OEM warranty, u can not go to WD's website for example and RMA an OEM drive.
By changing out RAM and Drive(s) after your warranty expires for example, with then have u using components that have a full manufacture warranty all their own.