Steam installieren
Anmelden
|
Sprache
简体中文 (Vereinfachtes Chinesisch)
繁體中文 (Traditionelles Chinesisch)
日本語 (Japanisch)
한국어 (Koreanisch)
ไทย (Thai)
Български (Bulgarisch)
Čeština (Tschechisch)
Dansk (Dänisch)
English (Englisch)
Español – España (Spanisch – Spanien)
Español – Latinoamérica (Lateinamerikanisches Spanisch)
Ελληνικά (Griechisch)
Français (Französisch)
Italiano (Italienisch)
Bahasa Indonesia (Indonesisch)
Magyar (Ungarisch)
Nederlands (Niederländisch)
Norsk (Norwegisch)
Polski (Polnisch)
Português – Portugal (Portugiesisch – Portugal)
Português – Brasil (Portugiesisch – Brasilien)
Română (Rumänisch)
Русский (Russisch)
Suomi (Finnisch)
Svenska (Schwedisch)
Türkçe (Türkisch)
Tiếng Việt (Vietnamesisch)
Українська (Ukrainisch)
Ein Übersetzungsproblem melden
Diskussionsregeln
Diesen Beitrag melden
Best build A10-6800K the works $430:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1donJ
Yes it is overbudget at $430 but that expensive 80 Plus Gold certified power supply is going to save you $ on electricity in the long run unless it's free where you live. The savings with the 80 Plus Gold (90~% efficient) can get pretty serious vs a uncertified PSU at 60-75% efficient. So if you will use the computer often (daily a few hours) for 3-5 years do the math and figure out what you save and if it's worth it. If you use it very often you will probably save like $60 (the cost of the whole PSU) over 3-5 years.
Middle build A10-6800K bad PSU $380:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1doxI
The PSU is included in the case, it's 400w and uncertified so it might actually only supply 250~w continuous when drawing 400w. The other one in the best build was 450w continuous and with 80 Plus Gold certification probably wouldn't ever draw more than 500w to supply that. As you can see the system in either build uses about 200w so far without any later upgrades so either one will be able to fully run it, at least right now. The bad PSU also might not have graphics card connectors so that means you need a new PSU before upgrading to discrete graphics anything above HD 6670 or 7670 (which conveniently does crossfire with the APU). Meanwhile the good PSU has graphics card connectors and supplies enough power to run some worthwhile cards that alone would be better than the APU + crossfire.
Worst build, A10-5800K & bad PSU $365~:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1doBs
Same bad PSU as middle build. Also moves down to the A10-5800K instead of A10-6800K. The reason it moves to 5000 series instead of lower 6000 series is that the GPU (graphics card) integrated into the APU is better in the top 5000 series than in the similarly priced lower 6000 series part. I know that might be confusing but just trust me. In terms of graphics performance it goes A8-3870K, A10-5700, A10-6700, A10-5800K (above A10-6700 because K series gets a little GPU clock boost and also is unlocked to overclock for even more performance), A10-6800K. Make sure you get the promo (I'm not sure if it's over yet as the date is 7/4/2013) if you buy from Newegg and buy somewhere else for $125~ if the promo is over.
All the builds I have recommended allow for overclocking with appropriate cooling. You can also underclock or undervolt to try and save power. You might be able to pull off a small overclock without using any extra power at all. You can overclock the CPU and GPU separately and I recommend only overclocking the GPU to start when and if you start playing around with overclocking. Your CPU in the APU (CPU+GPU) will be more powerful than the GPU by default so that is why I'd overclock the GPU if anything. You should be fine with no overclocking at all and can save it for later as a "free upgrade". Also if you do ever get serious about overclocking buy yourself a good aftermarket cooler and make sure it fits the case.
Can you link it please? I can't find it if it's a case+PSU combo like the toppower is.
If you mean the power supply well it's included in the case with the toppower. So getting the CX430 power supply would still leave him needing a case. There is also no $20 rebate (at least on newegg) on teh cx430 PSU. The rebate is over now.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811208052
side/top vents, with bottom mount power supply
no usb 3.0 ports tho or psu tho
a10 5800 k a85x build will be around $400
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1dp4a
@_I_ - I thought the XION looked like a good cooling case, which is why I put that on my list- I really like the black glossy Rosewill, but in terms of cooling, the XION does look better. Overheating is my main issue with my laptop that is annoying me right now. I'm not really worried about USB 3.0 ports; what are those used for anyway? Most stuff is still 2.0, I've never had anything need a 3.0.
Actually, I just noticed no video card on those builds. Is the video card build into the motherboard or CPU?
Also, I'm probably going to go with windows 7 for the OS- a friend said windows 8 is absolutely terrible for gaming, not sure if you guys tried 8 or not.
with those, fast ram makes a huge difference in its gpu performance
minimum suggested, is 1600 cl8, or 1866 cl9 or faster, but above that can get spendy for a smaller increase
there are more and more usb 3.0 devices
memory sticks, external drives are the main ones that actually need the speed
win8 has minor improvements over 7 for gaming
but the ui takes some tmie to get used to, or it can be modded to look like 7
2133 cl9 1.65v kit is $80
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226199
its about 14% faster than 1866 cl9 kit
or 1600 cl8 1.5v kit for $71
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226401
easy way to compare ram kits
speed / cl = value (higher = better)
1600 cl9 = 177
1600 cl8 = 200
1866 cl9 = 207
2133 cl9 = 237
2133 cl9 is about 14% faster than 1866 cl9 kit
if your gong to go for faster, your better off getting a dedicated gpu and i3 setup, which will run about $100+ more
ex. i3 3220, b75, 7790 = $500
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1dHVM
with this faster ram will make no difference
Hey, all the parts should fit any mATX case except the PSU. It's ATX full-size so you will need to find a case that supports full size ATX PSUs. The one I used in that build is mATX but it specifically states that it supports ATX PSU size. If there is a case you like and want to use instead then check the manufacturer website and give them a phone call to ask if you do not find the information published. I'm sure many mATX cases support full ATX PSU but some few are too slim or else have a included PSU already soldered into them and no way to remove it or mount a new one. The Toppower cases in the cheaper builds for example might have a soldered PSU or the HEC Vigilance400 that you liked might also so you might not be able to replace those.
The XION XON-500 mATX case [www.newegg.com] specifically says that it does support ATX PSU size at the bottom of the detailed information on it. So you can get that case for $20 more to the build total if you want.
The A10-6800K will natively support up to DDR3-2133 while the A10-5800K will support up to DDR3-1866. They can both support more but you will have to overclock the IMC (integrated memory controller) or something to make it actually work. Your motherboard might do it for you but it will still be using it outside of regular specification.
The cheapest DDR3-2133 9,11,10,28 that I could find was $80~, $30 more than DDR3-1866 9,9,9,24 so it doesn't seem worth it to me and it would put your build that much more over your budget. It's also 1.65v which is higher than the 1.5v standard. Take a look if you want:
Mushkin Enhanced Redline 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) Desktop Memory Model 996996
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226199&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
Personally I'd just get the DDR3-1866 that I recommended. Also, if it does not boot at DDR3-1866 (or DDR3-2133 if you get that instead) automatically then you should make a official complaint or even sue them. Also you don't have to pay for it and can reverse credit card charges. The reason I say that is that unfortunately many manufacturers label their RAM faster than it is actually set to run by default. It then requires the user to overclock it up to the advertised speeds. This is even more likely to happen with the DDR3-2133 than the DDR3-1866. It's a illegal business practice on their part wich is why I say if they do that to you you don't need to pay and can sue. Also far to many of them will advertise their RAM as having the same Mhz as it's DDR speed. This is false advertising, it has 1/2 the Mhz as it's DDR speed and the DDR speed is the effective speed because DDR stands for "double data rate".
Most RAM will boot at DDR3-1333 or DDR3-1600 by default. I know for sure that Patriot Viper 3 cl9 kits all or almost all boot at DDR3-1600 (making it one of the better brands I've found) but unfortunately even their DDR3-2133 will go DDR3-1600 be default and requires overclocking to go faster. I think that means it's the same chips if you buy Viper 3 DDR-1600 or DDR3-2133 from them. Meaning they make you pay more to overclock with a warranty for it. It's illegal and deceptive to market like that. Most companies I know are worse than Patriot and their RAM will only go DDR3-1333 top speed by default.
Anyways, hopefully the RAM I recommended to you will go DDR3-1866 by default as advertised. If it doesn't then don't pay for it and make a complaint. If you want to be friendly about it tell them that you will pay them as soon as they ship you some DDR3-1866 that will boot at that speed without your interference or overclocking and that as a friendly gesture you will even send back the other RAM that was slower AFTER you receive and test that. You are within your legal rights to do that if you want, because what they do is false advertising.
I had a 32GB quad-channel kit (4*8GB) of Corsair Vengeance DDR3-1600 RAM that it ended up was going only DDR3-1333. Unfortunately I didn't catch it in time to reverse credit card charges. However I did make them give me a full refund after I bought a 32GB quad-channel kit (4*8GB) of Patriot Viper 3 DDR3-1600 that actually booted at that speed. I did have to send their RAM back to get the refund and while they paid return shipping they didn't cover my original shipping costs. I'm considering sueing them for damages on principal because I loath that kind of dishonesty, specially in the computer industry and I'm pissed off at Corsair for repeatedly lying to me and wasting my time. My legal right is that I'm not responsible to pay for anything I don't order. I ordered DDR3-1600, not DDR3-1333 so when they delivered DDR3-1333 I had no obligation to pay and them taking my money was fraud. It did have XMP-1600 but they advertised it as DDR3-1600 and unfortunately it was not that.
Anyways enough about me. I hope your DDR3-1866 from PNY (if you choose to buy that) will run at the rated DDR3-1866 by default. I do suggest you test it. I don't recall any personal experience with PNY RAM in the recent past so maybe it will and you will have no problem. I certainly hope so. Remember to take it for free if they lied and tried to defraud you, cause it's your right.
I checked the PNY website for that DDR3-1866 XLR8-PNY RAM and it says that the speed it is set to run is DDR3-1333, DDR3-1600 and DDR3-1866. RAM does have multiple speed settings so this means that in compatible systems (yours for example) it will run the top speed of DDR3-1866 by defualt. That means it should perform as advertised and you will not need to overclock it. Many other RAMs don't run as fast as they advertise when it's above DDR3-1333 or DDR3-1600. This PNY kit should so I recommend getting it. Whatever RAM you get, don't pay for it unless it automatically runs the advertised speed as long as your system can support that.
Anyways the PNY is a good price and you won't need to worry about anything with it, or you shouldn't.