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Relatar um problema com a tradução
I have seen "analog stick drifting" that was caused by the games own code.
And you are wildly confused on “games own code” causing “stick drift”. All analog sticks that are based on potentiometers will have some small amount of drift inherent in them. This means their “0 x 0” coordinate isn’t going to be precise. What you’re referring to regarding coding flaws is a result of either not having a dead zone or having the dead zone incorrectly sized so that the small errant values aren’t ignored.
@OP if you’re going to spend that much on a controller the King Kong Pro 3 is way better than the Xbox Elite 2 controller, especially for your use case.
can test with pulled out of circuit with a multimeter, they read 0 to 10k, and a few spots near the middle will be open
its the cap in circuit that slowly drains the charge that creates the 'drift' as its no longer being charged/drained by the voltage dividing pot
edit:
im pretty sure these are the ones i have been replacing them with
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Alps-Alpine/RKJXV122400R?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0DJfhVcWlK3TGSZ7Z9bZsLRmIDS1hCK1yvPValiGepw%3D%3D
sometime i need to trim off the alignment pins on the bottom of their plastic base
As for PS3 controllers, those are too much trouble when it comes to using on PC anyways.
I’m charging mine once a month usually.
The Xbox One and Core controllers don't come with batteries. Those what is best is go buy a 2 pack of the aftermarket sealed rechargeable packs with wall charger that are around 2200Mah or higher. Those actually can last quite a while.
Paying over $100 for a controller is just dumb. And most of what an Xbox Elite controller offers can't always be utilized properly on PC