any 3d printing tips for an idiot beginner like myself?

[Xuild]

somehow every single one of my prints end up looking like a whole italian dinner (filament ends up looking like the elephants foot in reactor 4 and just fails to work) despite doing everything else online, any stupid steps i've missed? trying to 3d print myself a quest 3 to quest 2 headset strap adapter because i do NOT want to waste 100 dollars on a thing that makes me not feel like i'm being lobotomized

[PopinFRESH]

which printer do you have? What slicer are you trying to use?

If you are having issues with the spagett then try using a glue stick on your build plate, get a filament dryer and make sure your filament is dried before printing, and make sure you've properly configured the flow rates and temperatures for the specific filament you are using.

[Xuild]

Ursprünglich geschrieben von PopinFRESH:

which printer do you have? What slicer are you trying to use?

If you are having issues with the spagett then try using a glue stick on your build plate, get a filament dryer and make sure your filament is dried before printing, and make sure you've properly configured the flow rates and temperatures for the specific filament you are using.

creality ender 3 s1 pro, i think i got it working but will update later

[_I_]

if its not sticking to the build plate, glue stick helps alot
bed temp to 70c also helps
but fully clean the build plate of glue after every few prints
and re-apply if needed

slicers have setting to help eliminate elephant foot
or you can get a deburring tool and blades for a few $ on ebay or amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Wozoohyi-Deburring-Aluminum-Printing-Deburing/dp/B0CTHRR6B5

[End0fDayz]

Wash build plate w/ dawn and hot water and drying your filament will solve 90% of problems. I run a Bambu Lab X1C and these 2 things alone make my prints nearly perfect. If you can use Orca Slicer, then run the filament tuning which takes an hour or 2 to get the temps/speed correct.

[Xuild]

so, in typical ender 3 s1 fashion, i'm 99% sure the cable is faulty, got two working prints out of it and then it keeps giving me the 203 probing error

okay now its working? tf is this printer doing

[Wampum Biskit]

on the Ender build plate you should not need to use glue , i have never had any problems with any of their build plates not sticking.

as was said before wash and dry the build plate , wipe it off every now and then with isopropyl alcohol , make sure the bed is heated , i usually run mine at 70 dgrees for PLA , TPU and PETG seems to like warmer temps 80-90 degrees (atleast SUNLU filament likes the temps).

i personally never had a problem with moisture in filament , i use the rolls too quickly for moisture to set into the filament , if you use a roll for months at a time before you finish it all , it may be wise to invest in a filament dryer.+

make sure you run the right temps for the filament , if you run it at the lower temp range of the filament and don't have the build plate heated enough the first few layers won't stick very well ,and you end with a spaghetti monster , especially if the fan is cooling at 100% in the first layers.

If you don't want the elephant foot , change the setting from brim or raft to skirt , if your settings are right a brim or raft won't help the model stick any better then without it , i very very rarely use anything other then a skirt.

[Phénomènes Mystiques]

You want to use a crossing pattern (crisscrossing pattern) so to maintain true tensile strength.

[_I_]

any infill pattern is fine, i use gyroid, and it can easily hold my weight with 8%
in cura, tick the box for 'alternate extra wall', that adds an extra wall on odd layers, kinda pinches the infill lines into the walls

[Crashed]

The most important thing is to observe your process.
If you are using the filament that comes with a cheap 3D printer, expect trouble. Assuming you are using PLA, try starting at 180-200°C for the nozzle temperature and 60°C on the heated bed.

Do not walk away from your 3D printer until the first layer has gone down and isn't peeling off. Even when the machine appears to be running well, check in occasionally in case of malfunctions like clogs/jams, part detaching from the bed, etc.

It's normal for there to be a bit of squish when making the first layer; it needs to be pressed into the bed to hold. Just don't run the nozzle so close it's struggling to extrude or so far away that the material is just barely sitting on the bed.

[Xuild]

Ursprünglich geschrieben von Crashed:

The most important thing is to observe your process.
If you are using the filament that comes with a cheap 3D printer, expect trouble. Assuming you are using PLA, try starting at 180-200°C for the nozzle temperature and 60°C on the heated bed.

Do not walk away from your 3D printer until the first layer has gone down and isn't peeling off. Even when the machine appears to be running well, check in occasionally in case of malfunctions like clogs/jams, part detaching from the bed, etc.

It's normal for there to be a bit of squish when making the first layer; it needs to be pressed into the bed to hold. Just don't run the nozzle so close it's struggling to extrude or so far away that the material is just barely sitting on the bed.

i seemed to have gotten it working, for some reason my printer works really nicely if i leave it at 200 celcius nozzle and 60 celcius on the bed for the first layer, then i bump it up to 225 and 65 which fuses the plastic together a bit more

[Wampum Biskit]

Ursprünglich geschrieben von Xuild:

Ursprünglich geschrieben von Crashed:

The most important thing is to observe your process.
If you are using the filament that comes with a cheap 3D printer, expect trouble. Assuming you are using PLA, try starting at 180-200°C for the nozzle temperature and 60°C on the heated bed.

Do not walk away from your 3D printer until the first layer has gone down and isn't peeling off. Even when the machine appears to be running well, check in occasionally in case of malfunctions like clogs/jams, part detaching from the bed, etc.

It's normal for there to be a bit of squish when making the first layer; it needs to be pressed into the bed to hold. Just don't run the nozzle so close it's struggling to extrude or so far away that the material is just barely sitting on the bed.

i seemed to have gotten it working, for some reason my printer works really nicely if i leave it at 200 celcius nozzle and 60 celcius on the bed for the first layer, then i bump it up to 225 and 65 which fuses the plastic together a bit more

good , you will find out it temps just differs between filaments/brand and printers , the temp probes have a tolerance of a few degrees , and the few degrees on some filament (or even the bed sometimes) can make all the difference , my advice is when you find a filament you like stay with it , i know sometimes the sales on some other brands look good , but you will have to play with it again to get it to print right..

I have always had good luck with SUNLU , and thus i tend to stay with them , even across different types of filaments.

[Xuild]

Ursprünglich geschrieben von Wampum Biskit:

Ursprünglich geschrieben von Xuild:

i seemed to have gotten it working, for some reason my printer works really nicely if i leave it at 200 celcius nozzle and 60 celcius on the bed for the first layer, then i bump it up to 225 and 65 which fuses the plastic together a bit more

good , you will find out it temps just differs between filaments/brand and printers , the temp probes have a tolerance of a few degrees , and the few degrees on some filament (or even the bed sometimes) can make all the difference , my advice is when you find a filament you like stay with it , i know sometimes the sales on some other brands look good , but you will have to play with it again to get it to print right..

I have always had good luck with SUNLU , and thus i tend to stay with them , even across different types of filaments.

personally i use esun and it works really nice plus the spool matches with my 3d printer