I'm looking for a mouse similar to a Logitech G602

[ugafan]

My mouse is starting to double click. I'm looking for a replacement, but Logitech no longer makes this model. Any suggestions for a wireless mouse that is similar in size and feel to a G602?

[Supafly]

Could always solder new switches on it. Did that to my G502 last year. Wasn't too hard and I havent used a solding iron since school, decades ago.

[spaceweezle]

I went through a bunch of 602's while struggling to find a suitable replacement for my beloved G700s. It was in fact the closest I could get to it in terms of ergo's and side button configuration.

You can get close enough ergo's on many of Logitech's more modern offerings, but none that I know of that offer similar side buttons.

If your faith in logitech is stretching thin already and you don't want to gamble on one of their premium models, I would suggest something like the M720 Triathlon. Very good ergo's for medium size hands. Has the classic high-arch body. Side button placement quite good, although there is the 3rd button for pairing which is stupidly placed on the side.

If you've got money to burn I would say go for the G502 Lightspeed wireless.

[_I_]

if you want to fix the buttons yourself, they are not too hard to replace

~$75 for almost everything you need to do it


SEQURE MSS12 iron with k tip is $45 usd
https://sequremall.com/products/mss12-mini-oled-soldering-station?variant=41114188513468
or similar model that includes power brick
https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Iron-Kit-Adjustable-Programmable/dp/B0BZ87W7QP

no power supply, but can run off a usb c charger, or 12-25v dc adapter with 5mm barrel jack

kailh micro mini switches are $7 for 4pk (will last longer than the cheap ones)
https://www.amazon.com/KAILH-Switch-80MLife-Gaming-Button/dp/B0BMKX245W

roll of leaded solder, rosin core ~60/40 $10
https://www.amazon.com/MAIYUM-63-37-solder-electrical-soldering/dp/B076QG9N13

desoldering bulb $9
https://www.amazon.com/Desoldering-Bulb-or-Solder-Remover/dp/B012EIYHWC

k tip is wide enough to hit 2 of the switches 3 pins at once, makes it easier
and use bulb to remove old solder
(on first repair, add a bunch of leaded solder that has a much lower melting point, 300c vs 400+c)

if one button went, replace both, and the wheel button while at it, maybe side buttons if you use them often

[Alice Liddell]

I bet a piece of plastic or rubber from the mouse wheel got caught up inside (this happened to me but my front plate broke in three pieces for no known reason plus the mouse wheel got caught in a tiny piece of plastic).

After the plate fell off, I simply took an air compressor (80/90 PSI) with a fine and wide tip blower attachment(s) to the mouse and it hasn't double-clicked since but the mouse wheel would lock up so I used greaseless silicone lubricant and presto, no issues since).

Greaseless silicone lubricant can also dissolve dust and grime as well as protect/prevent dust and grime buildup as it layers a thin film on the device without harming plastic or rubber components (used widely in automotive repair around rubber seals and gaskets).

At first, I thought it was the switches but it was a piece of plastic under the switch which caused the double-click issue and mouse wheel lockup.

The plastic piece was merely 1mm big (if that).

I lucked out that the top front mouse plate/covering broke into pieces giving me a larger space to blow into and thus shake and remove said 1mm plastic piece.

You can find the Logitech G602 mouse feet for $6+ but not OEM (those cost nearing $12+); however, if you have a heat gun, you can remove them easier on a very low heat setting, some dental floss, and maybe a plastic pick/pry bar (possibly reusing the originals if you are careful enough).

Anyways, the best replacement for the Logitech G602 that I found was the Razer Naga Pro with removable tri-way button attachments at a lower cost.

Many "gaming" mice do not have 6+ buttons anymore but the Razer Naga Pro has 2-button, 6-button, and 12-button magnetic attachments.

[_I_]

Originally posted by Alice Liddell:

I bet a piece of plastic or rubber from the mouse wheel got caught up inside (this happened to me but my front plate broke in three pieces for no known reason plus the mouse wheel got caught in a tiny piece of plastic).

that would cause non click,
if its still making the click/clack sound, and double click its the switch contacts going bad

[_I_]

then you had a broken mouse
not a switch that would double click

[_I_]

*had,

if the switch would not click properly, is it considered broken?

[_I_]

just wow

you assume software or drivers changed?
with some software you can rebind mouse buttons to double click, or other functions
but then it would always do that, not sometimes, or not click (while still making a single tick/tack sound/feel)

as for controller drift
it is due to bad pots, software or firmware will not fix it
again assuming no software or driver deadzone setting change
you can widen deadzones in steam controller settings (if using steam input) or game setting to compensate for small amount of drift
but if the pot contacts are bad, it will eventually drift farther out of deadzone range or have more unresponsive areas

with steam input you can bind controllers to do anything, stick move or ps4/5 pad swipes to anything, even shut down windows

[smokerob79]

Originally posted by Alice Liddell:

I bet a piece of plastic or rubber from the mouse wheel got caught up inside (this happened to me but my front plate broke in three pieces for no known reason plus the mouse wheel got caught in a tiny piece of plastic).

After the plate fell off, I simply took an air compressor (80/90 PSI) with a fine and wide tip blower attachment(s) to the mouse and it hasn't double-clicked since but the mouse wheel would lock up so I used greaseless silicone lubricant and presto, no issues since).

Greaseless silicone lubricant can also dissolve dust and grime as well as protect/prevent dust and grime buildup as it layers a thin film on the device without harming plastic or rubber components (used widely in automotive repair around rubber seals and gaskets).

At first, I thought it was the switches but it was a piece of plastic under the switch which caused the double-click issue and mouse wheel lockup.

The plastic piece was merely 1mm big (if that).

I lucked out that the top front mouse plate/covering broke into pieces giving me a larger space to blow into and thus shake and remove said 1mm plastic piece.

You can find the Logitech G602 mouse feet for $6+ but not OEM (those cost nearing $12+); however, if you have a heat gun, you can remove them easier on a very low heat setting, some dental floss, and maybe a plastic pick/pry bar (possibly reusing the originals if you are careful enough).

Anyways, the best replacement for the Logitech G602 that I found was the Razer Naga Pro with removable tri-way button attachments at a lower cost.

Many "gaming" mice do not have 6+ buttons anymore but the Razer Naga Pro has 2-button, 6-button, and 12-button magnetic attachments.

its razor....their software sucks and their hardware is garbage.....

[HIVEmind]

Well that limits what's good down.