Steam installieren
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Ein Übersetzungsproblem melden
originally an i7 5960x overclocked to 4.5ghz for all 8 cores
later and now an i7 6950x overclocked to 4.2 ghz for all 10 cores
(turbo turned off.. they run permanent at that speed)
(for both the baseclock was 3 with a boost to 3.5) so the overclock is a sizable amount above that.
I know how to build a system.. but I like store warranty to not have to deal with that hassle.. and they only give that if you allow them to build the system
makes it also easier with dealing with warranty if all parts also come from 1 store.. as in my nation warrantly is always trough the store you bought it for minimum 3 maximum 10 years depending on the product (eu has whole books about it)
consumers never have to deal with factory warranty thats for those stores to figure out if they can forward the claim after they paid us consumers..
and I have been fiddlling with pc's since the 80s but not with waterloops... so kind of scared to go meddle with what worked espcially with the insane labourcost they charge for putting it together (part cost aside where normal system assemby is like 50 euro, free upon purchasing all parts with 1 store.. IF you can find a place that builds custom loops.. they not care where you got the parts that are not part of the waterloop.. coolingblocs pumps fittings etc etc they want you to buy from them.. but they generally charge 150/hr labourcost and they billed me for over 1000 euro of labour last time they had to handle an rma (the replacement pump was under warranty the labour to figure out what was broken and to drain it.. and install a new one was not)
as for why not only swap the pump simple answer.. store never does that.. they always replace the whole thing.
-> and with 150/hr labourcost you likely pay more anyway..
basicly I'm the pc guy version of.. my old 80s rusty volvo thats worth 50 euro in scrap metal I maintail myself./. after all if I drop a wrench and break something.. what would that cost me.. 5 euro for a secondhand part?
but if I saved up for a 1 million euro 1950s antique racecar.. i am not going to risk meddling with it.. I hire somebody to maintain it for me.
I taken apart and put back together plenty old clunker pc's worth only a few hundred euro.. and build for people pc's upto 1000 euro..
but a 10k system.. thats just a tad to expensive to my blood to make 1 mistake and POOF 5 grand gone...
I have mine on the mobo with the ram as a display piece now as it looks cool.
I have not pushed it to it's max.. it likely can do much more.. but I run my pc pretty much 24/7... so longjevity and stability are factrors.... a +50% overclock felt good enough for me.. no need to push your luck..
had not even to meddle with voltage for this one.. it does pull a bit more watt though..
so if I slighly overvolt it indeed it might get 4.8 to 5ghz... by why bother..
but who know... if eventually I have a succesor system and playing around is less a risk.. I may toy a bit..
also my loop has a hefty 600mm THICK dense ridge 420x140 rad with the best 140 push and pull fans I could get.
AND adtionally two 140x280mm rad also 60mm thick.. again push-pull and finally two 140x140 rads these one normal this time just push, no pull..
so thats quite a lot of radiator surface and an insane amount of fans keeping everything cool..
Blomin heck, yeah you should try your hand at your own maintainance, it's really straight forward and that store is really taking advantage of you.
Add me as a friend and I'd be happy to help talk you through the process in the future.
Im rebuilding my loop now (new cpu, ram, mobo) and adding QD fittings to make life easier in the future.
It is typically cheaper, less prone to trouble, and usually easier to install.
You will just need to replace a fan typically.
For me, the gaming PC is in another room, so noise is not an issue.
Good air coolers move air horizontally. so you can have an intake fan pulling cool air in from the front of the case, the CPU cooler sucking that cool air from the front of the case and pushing it through the fins to the back side of the case, and an exhaust fan on the back of the case venting that hot air out of the case.
taking cool air from outside through the rad, even if its going into the case will cool the cpu or whatever components in the loop more effectively
why cars have rads, and intercoolers at the front of the engine bay, even if its putting hot air under the hood with the engine
but most cases for clc/aio combos do not allow for this without putting the air bubble at the pipes or pump at the cpu
top mount rad keeps the air bubbles in the rad with its reservoir
if you build a custom loop, you can do that, and put the reservoir where its needed
all the piping is flexible...
it's not that hard to imagine a pc case is sqaure.. 4 rads...
140x140mm 45 mm rad + 25mm fan on back
intakes at bottom, one straight one 90 degrees
fan on the inside blowing outwards.
(tried doing 2x 15mm fan in push pull but that was to tight a fit with motherboard it now pushing tightligh against the ram.. airflow not restricted..
420x140mm 60mm rad + full 25mm fans on top push..
my case has an airfilter and allowes for fans to be mounted on top (with a roster hiding them from vieuw).. so thats how I mounted the pull fans..
fans -> rad (metal of case) slide in filder fans (top roster that I can push and it than release (a click in place lock with sping release)
so the push fans don't actually take space from the inner space of the case.
but 85mm is about all the space I have between top of case and the top of motherboard.. especially the power in line.. hand to use proper managment to bend that main motherboard powercable for if not carefull they could flex upwards into a fan it's quite a tight fit..
the fittings of this one are at the back and 90 degrees (again bargely squasing those fittings in the room with that 140mm fan....
basicly I did a very short piece of hard pipe 2 90 degree fittings to create v^ to get around the fan below... and connect to the 90 degree fitting of the rad in the back.
-- the pipe from the rad on top.. goes with a 90 degree fitting trough the cable managment s
hole in the case .. to the cable managment sectionn... across diagonally to enter again trough a cable managment sleeve into the case.. than connect at the bottom with the rad at the front..
not that hard to do.. it's done a bit sloppy ofcourse pulling it to tight will lead to flexible pipe blocking.. hence hidden out of vieuw..
third rad a 280x140mm rad in front no issue there.. plenty of space between it and the harddisk cages... for 25mm fan 60 mm rad and 25 mm fan... so much hollow space.. no idea why they designed the case like that.. but it was an easy fit..
fittings at bottom.. no issue there did one 90 degree one straight (the 90 degree for intake the other outake.
finally a 280x140mm rad mounted on the bottom of the case (it's not visable for the most part covered by psu scroud... (airflow a bit restricted) though there is free room and the sroud has opening to the hd cages.. so it has a route to pull air just not as straight one..)
a bit like you sitting in a pillowfortress with an open side... you sittll connected to the air in the living room..
pipe goes under the hd cage from front radiator.. to that rad.. and one line goes out trough the cable managment sleeve on the psu cover (sou closest to the case panel).. and straight up to the pump
the pump thus gets water in from bottom and pumps it out to the back towards cpu.. than a pimpe goes down.. to gpu and finally gpu to the 140mm rad
so the water goes pump -> cpu -> gpu -> 140mm rad -> 420mm rad -> 280mm rad -> 280mm rad
hence why the order of gpu behind cpu was essential.
it might be preferable to have 1 or 2 rads in between the cpu and gpu but that would get a piping mess this was much more astarticly pleasing.
better to have the custom loop
pump -> cpu -> rad -> gpu -> rad -> reservoir
you want the pump at the lowest part of the loop, after a rad so it does not collect air bubbles and cool coolant
Loop order and rad locations within the loop makes no difference, the whole loop will have the same temps regardless of the component / radiator order, we are not dealing with temperatures or air flow like a car would have where there are drastic temperature changes.
Only important order is to have the reservoir feed the pump directly, NOTHING else will have any notable impact on the coolant temperatures.
My loop is res - pump - gpu - cpu - memory - 480mm rad - 360mm rad - second D5 pump - 480mm rad - 480mm rad and back to reservoir.
The coolant will all be the same after 30 minutes.