Razer Deathadder V3 Wired keeps losing connection.

[THE LORD]

Is razer's QC really this bad? I'm on my 2nd one already.

Anyone's deathadder v3 wired keep losing connection over and over?

The shape and performance are both amazing but it's the damn QC.

[_I_]

probably a bad usb cable

they use super thin cable that tend to break where they are flexed the most

razer products are just trash cash grabs

[THE LORD]

Publicado originalmente por _I_:

probably a bad usb cable

they use super thin cable that tend to break where they are flexed the most

razer products are just trash cash grabs

Well, I can't just keep RMAing the thing.

[_I_]

then get a better quality mouse

[Alice Liddell]

The best mice are those with Wi-Fi and/or BT because those wires can be replaced easier than hard-soldered wired mice.

Check the cable for softness, crinkle, twist, bunching, chafing, or snap in the wire.

You can check the mouse for power and continuity with a multimeter but do not use "alligator clip" test leads, use probes instead.

[THE LORD]

Publicado originalmente por Alice Liddell:

The best mice are those with Wi-Fi and/or BT because those wires can be replaced easier than hard-soldered wired mice.

Check the cable for softness, crinkle, twist, bunching, chafing, or snap in the wire.

You can check the mouse for power and continuity with a multimeter but do not use "alligator clip" test leads, use probes instead.

If the wired version is bad, isn't the wireless one even less reliable?

[Alice Liddell]

Publicado originalmente por THE LORD:

Publicado originalmente por Alice Liddell:

The best mice are those with Wi-Fi and/or BT because those wires can be replaced easier than hard-soldered wired mice.

Check the cable for softness, crinkle, twist, bunching, chafing, or snap in the wire.

You can check the mouse for power and continuity with a multimeter but do not use "alligator clip" test leads, use probes instead.

If the wired version is bad, isn't the wireless one even less reliable?

It is the wire quality that makes or breaks the mouse and wires will eventually break.

The mice that are wireless, have either proprietary cables (bad news) or universal cables (great news).

In regards to controllers and mice, I found wireless > wired due to wire quality over time.

I never owned the Razer NAGA wired (but I do own the wireless Razer NAGA Pro) so I cannot say if the wired versions are better or worse but for branded controllers I will say the truth is the wire quality failing over time and not the product itself so to speak.

I have owned a wired and wireless Sony PS controller which was like night and day.

It took me a long time and a lot of convincing to use a wireless mouse but this Logitech G602 has stood the test of time over these past 7 years and so then the Razer but I like the G602 more but not all wireless mice are created equal regarding response time.

Razer DeathAdder in its wireless form is supposed to be good, or so I have read and was the one I was looking at but it failed my button overview where NAGA Pro had won.

There are more issues for some people with the 'Razer Synapse' app than anything but I have no issues on Win10 using the AM4 system.

[_I_]

Publicado originalmente por Alice Liddell:

The best mice are those with Wi-Fi and/or BT because those wires can be replaced easier than hard-soldered wired mice.

Check the cable for softness, crinkle, twist, bunching, chafing, or snap in the wire.

You can check the mouse for power and continuity with a multimeter but do not use "alligator clip" test leads, use probes instead.

wifi and bt mice are the worst
get a 2.4ghz wireless mouse with a dedicated usb dongle
not from razor or steelseries
logitech, ms, even kingston are better than those

[Bad 💀 Motha]

solder on a new cable

[THE LORD]

I like the shape of the deathadder v3, is there any alternative that isn't razor?

[Wampum Biskit]

Publicado originalmente por THE LORD:

I like the shape of the deathadder v3, is there any alternative that isn't razor?

i went to a Logitech G502 after going thru 3 death adders that all developed the left double click issue , they all died within 8 months , i just replaced a 4 year old G502 cause it had an intermittent click issue.

I'm a finger mouse user , meaning i don't move my wrist or arm while moving the mouse , i just move the mouse with my fingertips and the 502 is very comfortable for me

i don't mind replacing a mouse every 4 years , same as with a game controller i see mice,keyboards and controllers as a consumable (up to an extend of course) , most people think peripherals should last forever and they just won't , you will be amazed how many times you click your mouse in a year if you track mouse clicks.

the buttons in a mouse are still mechanical in most mice , so they have a working limit as far as how many times it can be pressed , they just wear out over time.

[Bad 💀 Motha]

Publicado originalmente por THE LORD:

I like the shape of the deathadder v3, is there any alternative that isn't razor?

REDRAGON M711

LOGITECH G703 (wireless, sealed recharge battery, recharge via USB cable while using mouse, comes with Logitech wireless usb dongle, battery easily can last you for a week playing 4-6 hours per day)

[smokerob79]

Publicado originalmente por Alice Liddell:

The best mice are those with Wi-Fi and/or BT because those wires can be replaced easier than hard-soldered wired mice.

Check the cable for softness, crinkle, twist, bunching, chafing, or snap in the wire.

You can check the mouse for power and continuity with a multimeter but do not use "alligator clip" test leads, use probes instead.

do you have any clue how many are not soldered???.....yeah you dont.....its cheaper to put it on a socket and makes production faster......

Publicado originalmente por Wampum Biskit:

Publicado originalmente por THE LORD:

I like the shape of the deathadder v3, is there any alternative that isn't razor?

i went to a Logitech G502 after going thru 3 death adders that all developed the left double click issue , they all died within 8 months , i just replaced a 4 year old G502 cause it had an intermittent click issue.

i don't mind replacing a mouse every 4 years , same as with a game controller i see mice,keyboards and controllers as a consumable (up to an extend of course)

my MS sidewinder mouse is from 2009 and still works fine......its had 1000's of hours of gaming put on it before being retired to the daily driver PC that is on 16 hours a day.....im using it right now.....built right a mouse should last over a decade.....it only being 2000 DPI is why its been moved to the other PC.....

[Bad 💀 Motha]

Well often times the USB cable going to PCB inside the mouse has a 4pin connector on it, but the bigger issue is how thin the wires are and they can't take much stress. You could get a USB data sync male to male or male to femaie cable of like a thicker wiring guage and maybe even braided, then cut off the female end and re-solder to the inside of your mouse. Before you solder it, put the mouse-end of the cable in a knot to absorb cable stress. Then after it's soldered in place and proven working again, put hot-glue all over the cable end that is soldered to the PCB, to further help not break the end that meets the mouse internal PCB

[skOsH♥]

Idk how the one I have still works but it has been dragged very fast into the edge of my keyboard a few times, which caused it to get some deep scrapes, which killed my last raze mouse

Idm how old my current one is. Maybe 2 years? One of the side mouse buttons sometimes gets stuck

Edit: I still use a wired. Can't go wireless for myself idk. It's a preference thing. I just wish I had a better mouse bungee cord