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What type of flooring do you have? Vibrations can travel...
Why do you overvolt if you're not overclocking?
Thanks!
I have hardwood flooring, it's sounds more like the hum of the fans then any audible rattling (last computer had a horrible "coil whine" noise). Opening the sides of the PC made the hum much louder.
I don't believe in overclocking, good idea for older hardware, but the difference today isn't worth the potential for shortening the hardware's useful lifespan. I do a lot of non-gaming stuff that relies on floating-point computing, so accuracy and stability is a must, overvolting (from what I understand) does this, with the tradeoff being heat and energy.
Avoid the PC case being ground level or hard up against a wall, etc.
Larger fans allow for more airflow at a lower noise rate: 140mm or greater is good to use
Liquid cooling on the CPU can help. Removes the CPU fan and pumps the heat away from it instead to a huge heat sink, in which a larger fan can cool more effectively. Rather than that crappy standard thermal grease on your CPU, scrap it off and use a line of Arctic Silver 5 - a high-density polysynthetic silver thermal compound, which can reduce the temporary even more.
Best ultra quiet fans you can get to replace your stock fans is:
Noctua 140mm
Check the airflow amount vs the noise (dBA) level. Depending how much airflow your case needs to run at low temperatures, get extremely low dBA.
Ensure the PC case is quiet enough and HDD, etc, aren't rumbling around in it. Some cases have noise foam and are designed to be more silence than others. Note that silent cases could also reduce airflow. It becomes a toss up of airflow vs noise level. Better airflow is sometimes better. Larger the case, the better for airflow (so long you keep the cables all clean and out of the way inside), than larger fans allow them to lessen the workload and run at slower, quieter levels - rather than 100% full blast.
Don't overclock, it's not even required for this generation of PCs. All your be doing is shorting it's lifespan for more heat and little noticable results (when you already can get a good 60FPS+ out of ultra settings without overclocking anyways, what is 3FPS more going to do).
I would say just get a bunch of corsai quiet series fans, and make sure you fill every fan slot in your case with one of those. So that all the pc fans don't work as hard.
I have a cooler master silencio which has sound proofing foam in the doors and side panels, I also recently bought a Noctua NHD14 heatsink and some more acoustimat to stick in the roof of the case (coolermaster decided not to put any there) and anywhere else I could fit it. It helps a little but still the biggest noise is my 4 hard rives whirring away.
Without the drives running ti is quiet on idle (I have my OS on an SSD) but when they are all spinning its a constant humm and bbbbrrrr nise which at night can be heard in the next room which is my bedroom.
There is no resonance travelling through the case to the floor since it has rubber feet and is on the acoustimat mats I have nt used.
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18269719
Strongly consider between liquid cooling and air cooling!
Full liquid cooling - I recommend only for the extreme and crazy who know what they are doing, this would include buying liquid cooling heatsinks for the graphic cards and a liquid cooled heatsink block to stack on your CPU and DDR3 memory. Unless you know what your doing and maintain it well, you can run the risk of a system leak and completely destorying your expensive components. Some liquid cooling system pumps sound louder than just using standard air fans, so it's not just to make your system quiet, rather instead have the lowest temperature for overclocking purposes.
Semi-liquid cooling (Self-contained) - Recommend this more for an advance user, who doesn't want the hassle. Enclosed, zero-maintaince, CPU liquid cooling only, going to a heatsink at the back of the case. Rest of the system is fan based. Again depends on some pump noise, most are quiet however.
Fan-only - Simply greatly increase the CPU heatsink to an oversized beast that can just fit in your case with large fans either side of it. Greatly increases airflow and will normally run extremely quiet, if you get a good one with quiet fans - check the dBA levels on them. You will need a full size large case to do this, but it could be a better option than liquid cooling for some.
Also, if you haven't already got them, consider custom coolers on your graphic cards - they can run much quieter and cooler, compared to standard single fan ones. DirectCUII or ACX coolers are purchased along with the card in the store, but it is possible to replace a standard one with an upgrade kit - if your already just using standard cards.
So, which is better? Air cooling or water cooling? The answer depends on your particular usage needs and your pc case.
I have now cleaned the guys of my PC and have downloaded an app for my mobile to measure the volume of my PC. At normal operations (browsing, watching videos, downloading etc) it is about 60 decibels; when it is working a more intensive task (Crysis 2) it raises to around 65 or 70 max. From where I stand, it is closer to 40-50 decibels. If you could compare your own volumes to mines, that would be most helpful as well! Thanks all.
Just to clarify a few things; I use a closed liquid cooling device (Corsair H80i) which comes with a fan, the rest of the fans I have not touched. I was under the impression that this is a lot more quiet then stock fans, not too expensive and needs no special maintenance. I also never overclock, only overvolt for system stability.
I'm not too confident with hardware and aftermarket stuff (full liquid cooling and anything high maintenance is a big no-no), so I have left the other fans on as they are. I will check the suggestion for the Nocta 140mm, but I was hoping if anyone could confirm if the stuff I mentioned in the OP (sound absorbing foams, anti-vibration mats) are worth it, since this is something I definitely can do.
Most of the sound *possibly* comes from my HDDS, but I cannot really replace my HDDs, as they are the biggest and fastest I need (all six are 4TB WD, two Blacks for my games and the rest Greens for work, study and documents).
Cable extenders, usbhubs/cd drives, harddrive docks, signal boosters if needed.
If you dont like that idea since money doesnt seem to be a huge problem for you. Go all solid state and put everything under water. CPU, NB, SB, Mosfets, GFX and either use all noctuas on your rads or build a seperate rad/pump box to once again be held in another room or you could even go for an industrial waterchiller.
Also sad to hear your views on overclocking. The "useful" lifespan of hardware for someone that needs raw power like you should be extremely low to begin with. Even with extreme voltages Ive only seen one of my chips finally give up on me. That was an AMD XP 1700+ JIHUB that died two years ago so it was almost 9 years old and went through absurd abuse like DiCE/ln2 runs and phase cooling with stupid voltages.
As far as the difference being worth it Im sitting on an i7 920 D0 thats been running a 58% overclock nearly 5 years strong. Having a cpu that old that was still faster than anything released up until last year or so is well worth the slight risk of electron migration decreasing the silicons half life a year or two or atleast it is for me.
Also I now noticed you overvolt. Voltage and heat is what does the most damage fyi.
Oh and look into the case company Fractal Designs and their DEFINE series of cases.
True, money isn't a big huge issue, but I don't think I could justify replacing 24TB of hard drives into SSD (as much as I would love to!), a big chunk of the PC are actually hand-me-downs. I don't even think the motherboard can support that many drives (Maximus IV Extreme-Z). The watercooler suggestion, though cool, is almost certainly beyond my confidence level, I know I would screw that up.
My last PC lasted me a good seven years, I do intend to keep my current one for almost as long. I might reconsider my position on overclocking one day, but right now the PC is sufficiently powerful enough for me, just need to keep it a bit more quiet. Overvolting (from my understanding) is a necessary trade off of heat and damage for stability, stability potentially affects floating point calculations.
Build a NAS and put it somewhere else. No need to have all of that storage in your main pc. As far as seeing wires Im talking about actually taking your time and fishing wires through walls/floors/celiing/ect. I have a closet in my pc room and that is where all of my hardware resides with some absurd ducting fans moving all excess heat into my attic.
Overvolting is only a necessary tradeoff for stability when you are overclocking. If you need added voltage to get your cpu stable at stock it should have been immediately RMAd. Alot of cpus today see up to 1ghz overclocks rock solid stable with stock voltage. Theres even people into undevolting just to see how low they can go and this is all rock solid stability. Most people literally test stability with the types of calculations you do only running nonstop for days using all resouces with 0 errors. Not trying to push you into it I think you just have a fair ammount of misconceptions on the topic.
Aside from looking at fractal check out AcousticPC[www.acousticpc.com].
I solved my hard drive resonance problem today for £10 for a few bungees and some p-clips.
Doesn't look mazing but boy does it work.
Also You should be able to see some of the acousti mat I put underneath the 5.25 inch drive bay.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/30326465/pics/HPIM2018.JPG
Before the bungee mod it sounded very similar to this (not my video)
http://youtu.be/FScVvm574VQ
In the past I tried all sorts of devices claiming to dampen hard drive vibrations but none of them worked. I bought these a year or 2 ago and they were pretty much useless, I say pretty much because now I use them as feet for my current case :)
http://www.sharkoon.com/?q=en/content/vibe-fixer-iii
That's very intresting, thank you. I guess I could put some of that stuff in between the drives as well. It won't increase the temp too much would it?