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You can still find them online to purchase. Upgrading your CPU at the same time might be worth thinking about.
I tried ASUS parts in Sweden but they have none listed, I may mail them later (that is where I got other parts - Keyboards and HDD shield brackets from before).
They are the official EU ASUS (they are called Zandparts) parts supplier I believe. http://www.asusparts.eu/
Have you got other info on sources? Even a better GPU board if they're not too expensive and compatible will do, I would have to repaste the North and South bridges too since the Heat Sink covers all three chips past the fan.
I want to be sure that is the actual problem before I order a part if they can get it though.
I could even maybe hunt down a same or similar model and disect that but I think that would be unlikely since most people run them until they burn out (me :) ) or repurpose them (me again :) )
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6ybDipimIk&feature=iv&src_vid=chaoqoebcTo&annotation_id=annotation_3480447751
Looks like that may do it.
1) Strip out the MXM board
2) Reflow the GPU solder
3) New thermal paste and spacer
3) Reassemble MXM board
I was thinking you would find a good eBay seller and buy there. Either the motherboard or gpu module component if thats the case.
I don't trust eBay, and ASUS use CUSTOM (reversed) MXM boards (if at all, some are soldered), it varies from board to board.
The G60VX is on a MXM 2.1 board with a single heatsink crossing the chipset, CPU and GPU on the MXM board.
I can just remove the fan/heatsink unit and then do the GPU in the oven maybe preheated and on foil or find somebody that can do a reflow (fixes cracks inside the solder by reheating and cooling it).
You cannot upgrade this one since its MXM 2.1 (custom) and I think this was the highest GPU model on that board.
I just want it to work to repurpose the laptop, it's been sitting here for a couple of years doing nothing and everything else on it works.
I just have to find Heatsink spacers for reassembling.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mobile_PCI_Express_Module
"Asus utilizes non standard MXM modules in most of their laptops, with a reversed pin on configuration on most MXM 2.1 models (since MXM 3.0 they are no longer reversed) and nonstandard PCB shape and mounting."
If I take it to a repair shop, that is all they would do, reflow it with a heat gun.
Since it's on an MXM board I don't have to do the whole mainboard.
A better fix is reballing
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rework_%28electronics%29
I might ask around repair places to see if they can reflow or better, reball if necessary.
If not, I will DIY or check with Zand Parts in Sweden for a MXM GPU board but since it's old I doubt they will have one (and they don't have them listed).
I think I will try the following in order of effort/risk
- Redo heatsink paste and heat sink spacers on the chips,
- Reflowing to 120/150 oC to check the Die core package first
- Reflowing to 180/200/230 oC for the ball chip package housing the core die
- Reballing the entire chip package
- New MXM board (if possible).
I don't really want to buy a second hand on eBay ( lack of trust of eBay and sellers, and some maybe reflowed thus already damaged ).
I will try the reseating and rethermaling next.
If that fails, I will bake it :)
Have to figure out if I can remove the GPU MXM PCB without removing the copper heatsink assembly and fan first :) I would prefer not to remove the CPU/Chipset thermalling at this point.
I am going to put 1mm thermal pads on the VRAM underneath so they stay in contact, and paste/pad on the GPU/CPU/Chipset (depends on what was there in the first place, I would prefer a pad for longer term than paste due to potential "movement" or gaps in the thermal assembly). 1mm over 0.5mm as it will compress when assembled.
Good thing the GPU is on a separate PCB.
I don't think reballing/reflowing will help the pins on the board because solder has a higher temperature than the GPU was reading 98oC I think I last read before it went poof. That wouldn't cause much stress on the solder since it is almost half the melting point of it. So the 120/150 oC bake trick on the die may be enough.
I will be sticking Linux on it not heavy gaming so it should last longer than heavy use after rebaking it I hope.
I checked google and most are used (and most likely going to fail anyway and a chance they have already been baked for reflow).
RMA to ASUS costs about 60 GBP before they even quote you (that is just courier and handling). I would imagine probably 100-150/200 for a new MXM GPU board replacement (assuming they have them).
Is it possible to get a better GPU reballed (BGA pin compatible) onto this MXM board or is the GTX 260M the maximum I can reball to the MXM board
Obviously it will have to have a similar heat profile since I don't want to modify the cooling.
Didn't take much, 5 mins in an Aga top oven. Wrapped the MXM PCB in foil just kept the die exposed on top.
Working laptop (for now :)).
start saving up for a new laptop or gaming pc
I was dead for a couple of years in a box anyway. I already am on another one. I just wanted to try to revive it for Linux installing.
I won't be doing heavy GPU work on it anyway, it was only 2 years old and it went blank.
I will test it for a while anyway.
What else do you suggest I do with hardware that's sitting in a box almost like new?
Worst case it ends up back in the box for parts :) If I source an MXM board or a new GPU for reballing then that will fix it better I know.
Hardware is for playing with :D I will update this thread after a while or if something changes :)
I may not have even needed to bake it, I didn't do long anyway and not high temps, The reseating and thermal padding replacing may have fixed it, it could have been just thermal shutting down due to bad heat transferring. I just didn't want to go through thermal pads and rework so I just did it all at the same time.
Well I just installed Linux Mint on it and now the GPU (via psensor) is at 54 oC (desktop), before the "black out" it was hitting 98 oC (under load in Windows with Eufloria game and thousands of little of the automatas running). So the repadding may have been the solution.
I will try it under load to see.. but the reseating and repadding helped a LOT in temps naturally. I put on 1mm pads (Phobya thermal pad XT 7W/mk 1mm). The stock pads were rubbish and melted through to the copper.
Since the repadding of the CPU and chipset I also see the CPU thermal stepping going better and the cooling is accomodating the stepping up and down of the CPU.
It could be the bake was unnecessary (and probably ineffective at the duration and temperature I used), I put in some lead free solder to guage the temperature melting point but it didn't melt or even liquify to any degree so the oven did nothing I think.
So with luck, a good working GPU revived from the reseat and repad.
So the GPU looks very temperature stable (and CPU).
Since my GPU was hitting 98 oC before it went blank. I found this, they state the temps CAN reach 105 oC. So, this would be an indicator that the GPU was not rekt.
Race under the sun gives 75 oC tops
Eufloria HD gives 68 oC tops.
Eufloria was the game I ran under Windows just before it went blank at 98 oC.
So now the system is cooling much much better and not hitting the high temperatures it was. Obviously the thermal pads help here.
So irrattic temperature profiles seen on psensor (Linux).