80+ gold or titanium psu?

[eldraco86]

my current psu is dying but still usable thankfully since i have to wait until next month to buy a new psu (unless it completely dies). the psus i'm looking at are the corsair rm750x and the be quiet! dark power 13 (looking at 750 watt one). they've mostly been maintaining the same price difference for a while which is about $40 usd.

if they keep that price difference is it worth it to get the dark power 13 over the rm750x? i'm just upgrading the psu.

[eldraco86]

Originally posted by Outcast82:

-still personally never in my life came to a point I not had savings and could not afford to replace something when it breaksm. even when still on minimumwage.. though while on minimumwahe an unespected 3000 euro dentistbill followed by a broken pc bill of 2000 .. did make me have to go into debt for a few 100dred for 1 month when when it too broke + eat very sober the next 2 months.
-good financial skills and diciplinr helps a lot
*but I also know how much worse usa is when you fall you fall so much harder and deeper.. less a safety net than here..

the issue is i live most check by check barely have anything left to spend on whatever i want sadly.

[Ontrix_Kitsune]

I read every reply in this thread and I'm kind of shocked no one else commented about this so I guess I have to. The color coded rating on the power supply is NOT just about power usage or efficiency. It also reflects the quality of components inside the power supply. Along with line noise, voltage ripple, voltage regulation, etc.

If someone is just building a basic computer to say for example: just assemble it, load defaults in bios and go play games then for them a 80+ bronze power supply will do everything they need without looking at gold, platinum, or titanium.

However the people in here claiming these higher tier power supplies don't have a purpose is just laughable.

If someone wants to overclock their computer, and tune it to get every last single 1% or 0.5% of performance out of it then they definitely need the stability that comes from quality components from a platinum or titanium tier power supply from a well known Tier-1 brand. There definitely is a reason these power supplies exist and there is a reason to use them, for some people.

Also in general: It's best to try and size up our computer's power load so it only loads the power supply to 50% of it's rated capacity. If we have 400 watts worth of load from our hardware then get a 800 watt power supply. If we have a computer that pulls 600 watts then a 1200W power supply would be best. This is because all power supplies have an "efficiency curve". Peak efficiency and the best performance is in the center at 50% of rated maximum. All power supplies are going to be significantly less efficiency at either 100% of maximum load or down < 30% of maximum load. Go to google images and search for: power supply efficiency curve. That should give you a visual idea of what I'm talking about.

[_I_]

its more about the design than the components

80+ has no spec for holding atx standard for voltages, only efficiency
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus
says nothing about rail noise, ripple, coil whine or anything else

[Bad 💀 Motha]

The brand and model is more of a reflection on components quality then the rating alone. There are plenty of cheap Chinese PSUs with faked 80+ ratings

[Karumati]

Originally posted by WinterSolstice:

Originally posted by Karumati:

There is a reason custom cables exist

PSU "custom" cables also come with a risk. :csd2smile:

Nope

[Phénomènes Mystiques]

Originally posted by Bad 💀 Motha:

The brand and model is more of a reflection on components quality then the rating alone. There are plenty of cheap Chinese PSUs with faked 80+ ratings

This is true.

Originally posted by Karumati:

Originally posted by WinterSolstice:

PSU "custom" cables also come with a risk.

Nope

I have seen PSU's burn out or just not work properly or at all, same with risers - be careful of the cables/PSU's/musical equipment that require reverse-polarity.

[_I_]

modular psus have no standard pinout for their cables
every brand uses different pinouts, and even within same brand and models versions have different pinouts

always keep modular the cables with the psu they came with
or if unsure, throw them out, and order new cablemod or the mfg and be sure to give the brand/model/date of the psu

[76561199793899658]

Originally posted by Ontrix_Kitsune:

I read every reply in this thread and I'm kind of shocked no one else commented about this so I guess I have to. The color coded rating on the power supply is NOT just about power usage or efficiency. It also reflects the quality of components inside the power supply. Along with line noise, voltage ripple, voltage regulation, etc.

If someone is just building a basic computer to say for example: just assemble it, load defaults in bios and go play games then for them a 80+ bronze power supply will do everything they need without looking at gold, platinum, or titanium.

However the people in here claiming these higher tier power supplies don't have a purpose is just laughable.

If someone wants to overclock their computer, and tune it to get every last single 1% or 0.5% of performance out of it then they definitely need the stability that comes from quality components from a platinum or titanium tier power supply from a well known Tier-1 brand. There definitely is a reason these power supplies exist and there is a reason to use them, for some people.

Also in general: It's best to try and size up our computer's power load so it only loads the power supply to 50% of it's rated capacity. If we have 400 watts worth of load from our hardware then get a 800 watt power supply. If we have a computer that pulls 600 watts then a 1200W power supply would be best. This is because all power supplies have an "efficiency curve". Peak efficiency and the best performance is in the center at 50% of rated maximum. All power supplies are going to be significantly less efficiency at either 100% of maximum load or down < 30% of maximum load. Go to google images and search for: power supply efficiency curve. That should give you a visual idea of what I'm talking about.

these days bronze rated psus and gold rated ones cost pretty much the same.
(silver rated you won't find anymore abd bronze rated ones are becoming rare)
-so gold rated is now pretty much the default.. with platnium anf titanium as the more expensive options.

bronze goes 82% efficient below 20% or avove 80% load.. at 50% 85%

gold is a large improvement.. at 50% 90% with under 20% or over 80% efgicency of 86%

platinum is barely better at 50% (92% efficient) but at under 20% and over 80% loads sticks at 89%

and titanium has equal 89% at under 20% and 92% at 50% but does not curve down but gets more efficient the closer you get to max draw.. upto 95%

so to say that a platinum psu will be 2.5% more efficient than gold for average user if we not know his actual draw is a decent estimate..

as for building quality.. rating has nothing to do with that. some brands make much higher quality gold rated ones sone make very crappy ones with far less and weaker made transistors.

[Bad 💀 Motha]

If the PSU is modular then only use cables specifically made for that PSU model. As pins outs can differ from model to model and brand to brand. If you want to use Cable-Mods make sure the cables are made for your PSU model

[76561199793899658]

Originally posted by Bad 💀 Motha:

If the PSU is modular then only use cables specifically made for that PSU model. As pins outs can differ from model to model and brand to brand. If you want to use Cable-Mods make sure the cables are made for your PSU model

op is on tight budget paycheck to paycheck.. he is delaying a 100 dollar psu purchase and asling if 40 dollar difference is worth platinium rated over gold...

so bare bone essentials here

I really doubt he will even spend money on modulair psu and certainly not on fancy custom cable mods..

[Bad 💀 Motha]

I don't see why the need for a new PSU though; RM750X should be fine and last approx 10 years if it holds out that long. I have tons of Corsair PSUs that were used near max loads for years and they usually exceeded their warranty.

[UserNotFound]

My philosophy is, IF you're putting good money into building a mid-high to high end, let alone extreme system, why settle for less than the best you can afford? When I was building a GB X570 Aorus Xtreme + R9 3900X system circa 2019, with a Vega64, I knew that I'd be upgrading sooner of later. And though a 750W Gold PSU from, say, Corsair/Seasonic/Enermax/Be Quiet!/etc would more than suffice, I'd chosen a Corsair HX1000 Platinum instead.

I knew I'd be upgrading to a more powerful, and hence more power hungry GPU, so a 750W PSU would not be able to handle it. I've since upgraded the CPU from the 3900X to a 5900X to my present 5700X3D, upped my RAM to 2x 16GB DDR4 3600C16 and my GPU from the Vega64 to an RX 6900XT to my present RX 7900 XTX. No issue with the PSU since I knew it'd be able to handle most single GPU setup easily enough.

[Karumati]

Originally posted by WinterSolstice:

Originally posted by Bad 💀 Motha:

The brand and model is more of a reflection on components quality then the rating alone. There are plenty of cheap Chinese PSUs with faked 80+ ratings

This is true. :csdsmile:

Originally posted by Karumati:

Nope

I have seen PSU's burn out or just not work properly or at all, same with risers - be careful of the cables/PSU's/musical equipment that require reverse-polarity. :csd2smile:

Buy from proper companies like cablemod

[kevinhatcher32]

Yeah you don’t need a platinum or titanium I have a 1300watt titanium atx 3.1 cause I’m running a highend pc with a amd 9950x upgrading to 9950x3d or 9900x3d I also have a 4090 upgrading to 5090 soon enough I also have the msi x870e godlike motherboard with 96gb of ram running on a 4K 49” gaming monitor