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Probably depends on the dust filter pattern* itself how much airflow it blockage.
I personal use Polyester fabric dust filters, but also only for my bottom and side, the top is always free. I think dust filters on small cases have a bigger impact about having slightly increased temperatures compared to big cases. When you plan to clean it anyways frequently I would simply leave the dust filter away as long the PC doesn't sits on the floor and soaks possible dirt inside.
that being said, one can assume when i person says they will clean frequently, it doesnt always happen "frequently" they just get to it when they can and regret it later.
anywho, i would use the filter.
not all dust simply "blows" off the components, loads of it sticks to the surface, crevices, ect.. and has to be wiped/cleaned off.
also lets assume, not all places/areas are more or less dusty and require tons of dust cleaning and wiping down dust one day to find a film of dust the very next day, is quite annoying to say the least, i would prefer majority of that gets stuck to a filter, than have to take apart my pc weekly to clean it properly.
Shouldn't have to open and blow out all dust with compressor but maybe once every 3-6 months.
not all parts of the world are "dust free" (well... no parts of the world are dust free), not including areas near farms, were dust is plentiful.... or other areas that have tons of dust, it has nothing to do with an "un-clean house".
also, even clean houses have dust, but needless to say, the whole purpose of a fust filter is to help keep your pc free of dust, simply because not only is it a hassle to clean, but it can cause issues with hardware, some not so common and some very common, most notably heating issues.
lets also not forget, things like gpu's have layers covering other layers (ie.. plastic covering a heatsink, heatsink covering a pcb... ect...), you cant simply "blow" dust from such parts, nor heatsinks, you have to actually manually clean that stuff or it will continue to build up till it causes issues.
My suggestion to those using liquid coolers + radiators would be that maybe your best bet would be to configure the system so that the radiator is used for exhaust @ top rather then front intake. Then have front intake case fans and have filters on the bottom and front.
i have been doing this for 30+ years as well...
i agree, radiators should be venting heat, not putting it into the pc.
i disagree with not using dust filters tho.
if the rad fans are any good they would be fine with the little extra sp needed to go through the filters
still, cleaning the pc every 3-6mo depending on environment is a good idea
Re-calibrated Smart Fan curves.
i9-10900F
MSI Coreliquid 240R
Setup the case without the filter...
Idle temps are 28-30
Dying Light 35-45
AIDA64 Stress Test 60-65 stable, min. 1 hr
With filter on...
Idle temps are 33-36
Dying Light 50-55
AIDA64 Stress Test 65-70, min .1 hr
I'll probably keep the filter on.
> Prime95 > Small FFTs Loop Test
> FurMark -or- MSI Kombuster (select stress tests, not benchmark, as the stress tests will be looped; also use your screen native res, to ensure a proper load on the GPU)
Run them together for approx 1 hour and this should give more accuracy with regards to probably the highest temps you'll ever see; based on your overall coolers, fans, airflow, fan curve settings as well as ambient temp.
CPU & GPU should be totally find upwards of 80-85*C areas.
If it is an NVIDIA GPU then it is best to try your best to keep that below the 85*C area at all times to avoid thermal throttling. Keeping such a GPU cooler also helps its ability to auto turbo boost higher based on thermals.
My test suggestions will also yield higher temps then any Game would ever do, which is a good thing because even if your CPU or GPU gets near the 80-85*C range during such stress tests, it shouldn't be coming close to that during Games then, since those will never be as stressful.