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번역 관련 문제 보고
then check the fan profiles in bios
if its a 3 pin fan, set bios to dc/voltage control for that header
if its a 4 pin fan, set bios to pwm control for that fan
if they are using splitters, use whatever the fans are connected to that
if a 3pin fan is on a header assigned to pwm, it will always be at 100%
I really hope it is the PSU that is the problem - it was running with fan at constant full speed last time the system ran (even though it should only turn on fan at all if it gets warm). Ordered a new one, should arrive Monday.
Will report back once I have the new PSU set up. Strangely there were no power fluctuations or anything noteworthy in recent days, I kept an eye on it as last week I found out the PSUs PCIE cable had melted - it seemed ok once I used the spare PCIE cable, but then the full fan speed issue appeared.
AVOID AEROCOOL PSUs - the one I bought wasn't even cheap, it was like 120 bucks and had an infinity mirror RGB on the side (so looked rather fancy).
2y warranty expired exactly one month ago.
I am just quite unsure as the MB is 8 years old now, so I couldn't complain if it died of old age. But since it worked flawlessly, I have hope that the PSU alone is to blame (full specs in profile).
psu fans can be easily replaced without going anywhere near any power rails (mains or output)
most only need 4 screws to take off the psu cover, when the cover is removed, there is no way to touch anything that has any voltage to it
its mains 400+500v caps will slowly drain, but all the electrical connections are on the bottom side of the board
most psu fans are on a 2-3 pin header
you can directly replace it with a 3-4 pin fan
if its wires are soldered to the psus board, you can cut them and bundle them out of the way, and use the new fans wire to the mobo, then you can assign that fan to run according to sb or cpu temp or whatever
op psu melted wires, which is not very common outside the 12vhpwr plug
but yea, avoid most offbrand psus
aerocool, apevia, aza, chieftec, coolmax, cougar, diablotek, enermax, gamemax, logisys, powerspec, raidmax, thermaltake, xigmatek
the list goes on
they may have some good ones, but 99% of those are junk, overrated, with incorrect or missing protections
psu is the one component never to cheap out on, it powers the build
if a poor one is failing, it will try to keep powering even if its going outside the atx spec, sending spikes and noise to rails, which can kill the rest of the hardware
The MB is a very high quality one (old, but high end back when it came out), and the LEDs and RGBs still work in stand by (and it still powers peripheals)
I ordered a cheap PSU for now (just to see if it will start if I replace the PSU, as I currently can't afford to start buying expensive parts on a whim until I find which one was actually the one that's faulty) - but I will follow ur advice and get a quality one asap (especially if it turns out the PSU is the only problem - I will only use the cheap one as a temporary solution and get a really nice one from EVGA or ROG soon).
Thanks for the advice.
parts of the board can die separately
nic, sound, usb ports etc..
it may have killed the drive if it fails to boot
or maybe the gpu if it fails to display anything
have you tried without the dedicated gpu, if the mobo and cpu support the igpu
I wouldn't even get that far atm, as system instantly shuts off in under a second if I try to turn on the PC (and then disables power button until I cut power to PSU, but the same happens again once I turn on PSU and attempt to start PC).
Given you metioned dying cheap PSUs may damage the system, I will leave it and see what happens on Monday when I get the new PSU. Will report back then. Have a nice remaining weekend.
System immediately started up once I had the PSU replaced. Avoid AeroCool at all cost (it was less than 1 month out of warranty).
Will follow advice to get a decent / high quality one asap (now that I know the system still works).
Thanks again, problem solved.