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Ein Übersetzungsproblem melden
You can send them a message.
Let them know what's going on, link this thread of you want.
I would remove the Graphics Card and RAM. Then power on the PC. You should get error LEDs or audible errors. Which is a good indication it's is working as intended. Then can repeat the RAM and GPU and connect any required GPU Power Connectors, then connect 1x Display to either HDMI or DP on the GPU card and power on the PC and go from there and see.
Intel CPU that ends in KF does not have an onboard GPU so ensure you connect Display to GPU card, not the Motherboard
https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/B760M-HDVM.2%20D4/index.asp#CPU
As for trying a different GPU unfortunately I don’t have one. This is a whole new build. Just trying to figure out why it’s not even booting into BIOS (or if it is why I can’t see anything). Machine is physically ON.
Mainboard might not have diagnostic lights.
The gpu fan should spin for a few seconds at start up then stop. Might be some exceptions?
In the monitors menu see if the right video port input source is selected. Like hdmi, vga, display port etc... Might not be auto detecting.
Gpu slot cracked, etc...? Shipping damage?
Can try other stuff but continue refund/support with the seller.
RE not getting past 180W how bad is that for gaming? Is it worth getting the seller to replace/fix this? Or straight up pursue a refund? I mean…I am not prepared to buy this prebuilt (a good deal stretching budget to the absolute maximum) only to have to fork out more money for a whole new motherboard and then have to rebuild the entire thing anyway. That would be pointless. I don’t care about 200 FPS on games (if it’s the difference between 200 and 250 FPS or something lol). I’m more interested in AAA titles with decent graphics than competitive esports. But if it’s going to cause stuttering or reduce FPS significantly (like from 60-100 down to 30-60 or something) then that’s horrific.
Ugh. The CMOS battery? I don’t even know where that is on this board (unless it’s hidden underneath the CPU cooler…it’s a gigantic Peerless Assassin 120SE that covers even the RAM lol). Had to remove one of the cooler fans to even get to the RAM earlier…
Was it ever working? like before you changed ram? or it never booted up right?
Oh, well I will suggest again the cmos battery with the directions I posted earlier. If you're interested, just google it and should be able to figure out where it is on your board. If it's too much of a hassle, I understand.
Right now I’m deciding between asking them to fix/replace (as it’s their responsibility) or whether to request a refund instead. A bit worried about the motherboard from earlier comments with it apparently power limiting the 13700K. From what I’ve googled since (coz I’ve stopped trying to troubleshoot the no signal issue nothing is working) it appears it’s a thermal throttling issue due to low VRM? If that is true won’t the 6 case fans and the decent Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE solve that issue? To clarify I’m not looking to overclock but I do want decent performance at standard clock (on eBay/manufacturers website it lists the cpu as “13700F” but the box supplied with the delivery shows “13700KF”, which is the unlocked one). I’m not going to be overclocking it but I don’t want to be severely limited at stock clock to an extent that it will negatively affect gaming performance. I will mostly use the machine for gaming (only other uses would be light web browsing. MS Office, etc) but mostly gaming so gaming performance is very very important. I know it’s a budget motherboard but will it be “good enough” for a i7 13700 (stock clock) and 4070 Super GPU with the intention of either running Ultra settings at 1080p (monitor) or 4K with DLSS (LG C2). If not I’m better off refunding (with that said though it was the only 4070 super build available within my budget). Even parts for my own similar specced build were more expensive, partly due to a promo discount.