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回報翻譯問題
look over the board for a leaky or bulged cap
Use DIMMS : Re is that you can max the ram much easier. basic PC100/133 ram will more than likely fully exceed anything the board could do with a DIMM of the time (which would have been PC 33 or 66). I run a single 512MB stick of PC133 in my MMX rig and the stick gets chipset limited to 256MB addressable. But the MB has had all the memory related anything brought to its fastest and tightest and as far as the board is concerned it might as well be golden sample memory. In reality its just a few years older than the rest of the rig but still def within spec of an End or Life upgrade from when the machine was still usable for a daily driver.
Keep the S3 - On a system of that age, even if you have one that has 256MB or 512MB usable ram, the memory will still be at a premium, more so if you are asking any remotely modern ability of the machine (mine tri-boots and one option is XP SP3). Giving up a couple megs to the integrated when the S3 was by all rights a fantastic 2D card (if an abysmal worlds first 3d) is just not smart. Keep the S3 and run your RAM full to the system.
Last bit if see if your older board is still serviceable without reboots. Without looking into the model I am not sure, but I know most of the boards from that era had no issues without a CMOS. In fact one of my older boards had a broken CMOS battery latch and never had one in it. Just keep the system powered up and the BIOS settings should be fine. Only downside is having to reset things on a power cycle. I could do a full sweep of settings in about 60 seconds with that system though.
Hey, thanks for that. I think I might have a couple of 256 GB sticks of PC133 laying around somewhere. I was under the impression that going beyond the cache limitation of 64 MB would result in reduced performance. Maybe it does, but not enough of one to matter, and perhaps that would be offset by the performance gain of using SDRAM. Maybe I'm overthinking it too.
Another issue I've run into is the power supply. Well, not really an issue, but more of an oversight. The new motherboard apparently takes an ATX power supply with a 20 pin connector, while the old one was running off an AT power supply. The pros are I can use a modern power supply that's less likely to burn my house down, and it will be quieter than the vaccuum cleaner sound the AT power supply fan makes. The negatives are that vacuum cleaner sound was kind of nostalgic, and I'll no longer get the orange "It's now safe to turn off your computer" message when I shut it down. Modern power supplies seem to skimp on the 5v rail these days, but the EVGA 400 watt one I'm planning on putting in there offers 15 amps, so that should be fine.
The biggest issue with ATX will be the modern voltage/amperage rail configs that you allude to with the 5v. And all the others tbh. Might do well enough pulling an older OEM supply from a pre-build as long as its caps are still solid. Anything with 250w or more will be plenty for an AT styled system.
If you are getting a new MB anyway, think about a Super Socket 7 with an AGP slot. Some are out there. They are rare, but you can get something that will not only run the Pentium but also a good selection of faster AMD chips. AMD kept Socket 7 alive to much higher clock speeds than Intel ever went, and the performance on later AMD chips on the socket is much faster in many ways.
This is my time capsule. It's a corner of my office where I can pretend it's the mid 90s again. A simpler time. The closer to modern it gets the more it defeats the purpose. Right now it's kind of at a sweet spot. It's almost like that PC my rich friend had and he would blow us all away by showing us 3d accelerated Tomb Raider, Quake and Carmageddon in the blisteringly high resolution of 640x480 before I went home to my 486sx with 4MB of RAM that I couldn't even get to run Doom.
a socket and modded pcb is $30 shipped
https://www.ebay.com/itm/134217827379
if the battery pins went straight to the board, it would be easy to just add a new battery on the old one