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2.40.00 is much cheaper than the 120.00 he was going to pay and that sight is legit i buy from there.
3.the better motherboards are built to a higher standard with better parts ( try a cheap one you'll see the difference ) the one he choose is not cheap its a decent board.
4.he made some pretty wise choices up to this point im sure he will continue.
did you even check how close to 650watts that system is ?
- I never said to buy a cheap mobo... I said that you don't need an expensive, fully featured board for gaming.
- $40 is still expensive. I spent $20 on my copy of Windows 11 Pro from a site advertised by the youtuber Mooreslawisdead.
- Saying Pro will get you significantly better performance and is maintained better than Home is complete nonsense. Please do some basic research.
- Yes, I agree that a 650w PSU is underpowered for what he needs... But I stand by what I said that simply saying to buy an 850w PSU is bad advice. There are a TON of "850w" PSU's that can't even take what a good 650w PSU can. The brand/model matters.
In any case, Windows has gone too far with their should-be-illegal ♥♥♥♥, so it's a good a time as any to start familiarizing with Linux.
Just get a key from a key reseller site, i even think g (2) a has them, and activate your windows after installation.
open cmd as admin
type:
slmgr /ipk productkey (XXXX-XXXX-XXXX-XXXX)
slmgr/ ato
to check activation status:
slmgr /dli
One of them is ASROCK B650M PRO RS WIFI. If you don’t need WiFi then you have more choices. It really depends of your local prices and what features you need. For gaming the most important feature is price and potentially bigger GPU budget.
Asrock offers uniquely good mobos at really good prices but some of them have no built in WiFi. Like ASRock B650M-HDV/M.2 for $119 that even has nvme gen5 support.
Or really impressive and feature rich Asrock Live Mixer for $149. No wifi and silly look but that’s a $300 level mobo at a half price.
You should think of your motherboard as a highway, and the components on it as cars. Adding ten lanes on each side of the highway isn't going to make it perform any better if you only have 5 cars' worth of traffic and you're probably not going to want to put on exits to the middle of nowhere either.
Any B series motherboard will at least let you do conservative overclock if you decide you want to try that later down the road, when your hardware is out of warranty and depreciates to the point where you don't mind potentially killing it in an attempt to extend the life of the system. However, you probably shouldn't be attempting much in the way of overclocking at this period of time, besides overclocking your R.A.M. to its labeled top speed.
Don't try to cheap out on a Windows license by going O.E.M. It violates the E.U.L.A. the last time I checked, which kind of makes paying for it at all pointless, and if you do want to pay for activation you will save money in the long run by being able to migrate the license to a new computer instead of trying it to your system. The penalty for not activating windows is not particularly harsh. Windows simply shames you by indicating it is unactivated on the Desktop and disables desktop personalization. If you feel really bad about using the O.S. without paying the piper his asking price, you can also try to use Linux. Another thing to be weary of is key reseller scams. Without going into all of the nitty gritty details, key reselling is illegal[news.microsoft.com], so you are spending $20+ for practically nothing except the ability to change your wallpaper.
Still though, if you have reason to use an O.E.M. license, such as reselling a computer, you might want to shop around for O.E.M. keys. P.C. World sells a Windows 11 home key for just $60[software.pcworld.com], and I think the name is reputable enough to trust them as a legitimate key source.
If you really want to cheap out on Windows, download it from Microsoft's website[www.microsoft.com] and use Rufus[rufus.ie], Unetbootin'[unetbootin.github.io] or Startup Disc Creator[ubuntu.com] to make a bootable thumbdrive. Rufus is preferred since it has some optional methods to bypass some of Microsoft's more onerous requirements.
Also, do give some consideration to linux. It can be a bit fiddly since it is made by computer nerds for themselves and they seem to have somewhat of a command line fetish, but the state of affairs regarding both usability and has gotten so much better with Proton that I don't personally plan to use Windows anymore. Here are some tips to keep in mind if you do[fosspost.org].
If I were you and I was looking for a full system in that price range, this is what I would get[i.postimg.cc].
The final cost is $1933, although I forgot to add the thermal paste. which is only like $6[www.amazon.com], so let's just call it at $1940.
So I cheaped out a little on the peripherals so that money can be funneled into the main system:
The Ryzen 7800x is considered the best processor you can get in the socket right now for its extra cache, and it only costs a little more than the 7700x.
I chose the M.S.I. B650 S Wi-Fi because [s]the B650E chipset in part has built in wi-fi and P.C.I.E. 5.0. Built in wi-fi ends up being cheaper than throwing in a P.C.I.E. card sometimes, and P.C.I.E. 5.0 might not be worth very much now, but if AM5 lasts as long as AM4 did, you want to be a little forward thinking so you don't have to upgrade your motherboard again. It's a bit of a gamble, and you can get a regular B650 for cheaper if you do not see the value.[/s] [Oh, it's S, not E.] I would get a B sku chipset though, since that allows you to overclock in the future if you should feel the need (try to wait until your parts are out of warranty and they depreciate to the point where you don't mind breaking one before experimenting with that).
The Silcon R.A.M. is 6000 megahertz and Cas Latency 30 like the R.A.M. you chose, and it is even white if that matters to you. You are just not playing the blinky light fee. Realistically, you are never going to actually be able to appreciate the R.G.B. on your computer, since you will be looking at your monitor. Other people might also find the colorful lights distracting and/or garish.
The levan JPS800 is a little cheaper than the Corsair P3 Plus. They're both 2tb P.C.I.E. gen 4 m.2 drives, and I doubt the minutia between the two is worth the cost premium..
The GTX 4070 Super was just released about a month ago. It's a bit more powerful than the RX 7700 XT, although not by enough to merit the $170 price differnce in terms of raw performance. Userbenchmark suggests it's only 14% more performance for 30% extra cost. However, more performance is more performance and Nvidia kicks the pants off of A.M.D. for ray tracing if you care about that either now or going forward looking forward. A newer card might also be more appealing if you ever choose to sell the thing off second hand.
The case is just the one you chose because I don't care enough about cases one way or the other to make an alteration.
The Apevia Galaxy P.S.U. costs the same as the Corsair, but it has more wattage headroom, an 80+ gold rating instead of just 80+ Bronze for power efficiency. It also has that silly power connector Nvidia wants people to start using on G.P.Us. Apevia isn't an entirely unheard of brand either. Having more wattage headroom in a P.S.U. is nice, even if you are not using it, since you might end up using it in more builds or upgrading to more demanding parts in the future.
I included the full retail license for Windows 11 Home under the assumption that you're going to buy it anyway, even though you could just just keep Windows unactivated or learn to use Linux. I used the cost of the thumb drive as the basis instead of the D.V.D. version, since your build does not include a D.V.D. drive and your case does not even look like it supports it. I suppose buying the D.V.D. version and making your own thumb drive could save some money though.
The Acer Monitor is the one you chose and looks like one of only two options for a 4k 60hz display on P.C. part picker. I don't normally look at monitors in the sub-$400 price range to tell you if there's a more sensible option.
The E.V.G.A. X20 is a fine mouse for the price with a 16500 D.P.I. sensor. The only thing wrong with it i a strict sense is that the scroll wheel has a tendency to break on some people rather quickly, but if that happens I assume you just R.M.A. it. It is also a right handed mouse, if that is a problem for you. E.V.G.A. has traditionally been known for good customer service after all, It is also a distinctly right handed if that poses any issue.
Truth be told, I would not actually buy the Agon keyboard at that price either. Not because it isn't necessarily worth the $50, so much as I have seen it on sale for cheaper recently. I personally got in on a Newegg group buy recently and bought three of them for $25. Be careful, since there is also an Otemu switch version, and Otemu's switches aren't as good as Cherry's. I just included it on the list since P.C. part picker didn't have this Sawjay GK980[sawjay.com] with Gateron Reds, which is also $50 if you buy it on Amazon[www.amazon.com]. Either way, they are both 1000hz polling rate mechanical keyboards which advertise n-key rollover, which covers all of the basics. The sawjay also has bluetooth and 2.4 gigahertz connections which give it some added value over the A.O.C. agon and I like the retro-chic aesthetic a little more than the black look.
That's about all I have to say.
1. You meant the 7800x3d which is what Rumple put in his build.
2. Microsoft doesn't give two craps what you use to get a key... it won't affect anything if you get a cheaper key.
3. For the rest of the build, Rumples was better.
4. A 7800x3d isn't an overclocking chip... honestly, none of the AMD chips from AM4 or AM5 are. You'll have better luck undervolting with the ones that allow it, and the x3d ones you enable PBO and the results are basically best case scenario.
Exactly, Microsoft doesn't give a damn and isn't going to blacklist your OEM key.
Besides, 99% of users are not going to migrate their license key between devices, so there is no reason to not go for the OEM/ROK key route and save yourself a lot of money.
If you're paying 60$ for a windows key you're getting scammed, prices should be around 10-30$ for one and yes that's the pro version.
Yeah that's a really good tip.
If you're going for a full AMD build like mine with a 7900X + 7900XTX get yourself native EXPO compatible RAM.
https://www.amd.com/en/technologies/expo
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MXTppB
The build Rumpelcrutchskin put together is pretty solid. The above build is slightly modified from that swapping the GPU, PSU, and the KBM
Biggest takeaways from either of those builds and the original build in the OP
Also right now if you search around at some local retailers there are some 4070 Supers with a $10 - $20 price drop (same with some 7700XT). My local Bestbuy had a Gigabyte 4070 Super windforce on sale for $589 and they also still had a couple of the NVIDIA 4070 Super FE cards in-stock at the $599 MSRP.
EDIT: The reason I swapped out the PSU and KBM is because I stopped getting anything corsair after dealing with their trash customer service. I'd also lean toward Logitech for the peripherals anyway due to the better software experience I've had with them.
I did not say anything about getting in trouble and many people do not get in trouble for plenty of things they should not be doing.
My main point is that (for a lack of a better way to put it) buying something from somebody who has no right to sell it in the first place does not confer ownership rights onto you and is thus worthless though. The only things that make sense to me are getting a fully legitimate Windows key, or no Windows keys at all.
However, I must admit that was predicated in part on the notion that Microsoft got rid of the nags, which upon further examination they didn't. Nevertheless, buying from a key reseller seems scammy to me though, so I still do not see it as an advisable purchase.