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Een vertaalprobleem melden
My old Asus B550-F Gaming WiFi started doing something similar after a year and a half. I can't remember all of the details but I remember on a cold boot it wouldn't POST properly. I had to turn it off and then back on within a number of seconds of turning it off and then would POST. Certainly came off as some specific part on the motherboard not getting the proper amount of something power related on a cold startup attempt.
The issue just showed up one day, and I was going tor reach out to Asus and the issue went away on its own.
Ended up RMAing it anyway since I later confirmed another issue with it. And before all that went down I was having awkward and hard to pinpoint issues.
Bought another motherboard anyway (different model) while RMing and all of those issues disappeared.
Now yes, technically you could take down all the error info and attempt to do a Warranty RMA process with the Motherboard Brand Maker. However here is the problem with that. They will most likely send you a refurbished motherboard in return which could actually end up being worse off then the one you already have, or they simply don't see or find any problems and send your current board right back to you.
One time I had an issue with an MSI Athlon64 motherboard many years ago. I forget the exact issues, but overall they accepted my RMA and send me a replacement board. I took pictures of the old board so I know the replacement was not the same exact board. Long story short, the new board ended up being worse. And it couldn't even remain stable with the same or lesser CPU OC as I was able to perform and have run stable all day long on the old board. I was supper mad about it, but what can you do.
Can you check your bios what SOC voltage is showing as and also what HWinfo reports it as once booted in windows?
Recommend first doing a full bios reset and cmos clear including taking out the battery, short the jumper and use the button if your board has it and then run full AMD stock and ram stock settings including disabling any gigabyte auto oc values for you cpu to see if the error still stays.
Shutdown the system and wait for power off; then power off 100% the PSU by its rear switch.
Press and hold Case Power Button for 10 secs.
Locate the "coin" CR2032 battery and remove it very gently with a flat but durable tool. Flat head screwdriver works just be extremely careful not to slip or scratch anything in the process. Once battery is removed, wait about 5 minutes. Reinstall the battery, short the 2pins for RESET CMOS (just to be sure it gets reset) with flat head screwdriver (yes for this part it needs to be metal, such as steel).
Now turn on the rear PSU switch, then power on PC via front case button.
See if you getting all same codes, or different.
Enter BIOS and make the needed changes. Do not boot into the OS until you do this part.
Once you are able to, flash the bios with very latest non-beta bios update.
This all started before the warranty even ran out. The M2 may have been faulty from the very start but I never populated it until later.
I think I did get a different (and likely refurbished) replacement back since the serial number was different, but it's pretty standard to not get a new product back as far as I'm aware. It surprised me when I sent my GPU to Sapphire and (seemingly) did get a new one back.
I ended up buying another board anyway. Not because I didn't like the original one (I did like it), but half because I wanted to reduce downtime, and half to move to X570 so I could utilize PCI Express 4.0 speeds on the second M2 port. I got the replacement board back with a slip that said it was diagnosed with an M2 error and tested it for POST but never used it otherwise.