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번역 관련 문제 보고
However, one of your new parts may be bad, or the new PSU can't provide enough power (wattage-wise it should certainly be more than enough, but it could also be bad).
You've sort of ruled temperatures out.
I'd honestly presume the SSD is least likely to be causing this result amongst your new parts. That doesn't guarantee it's not the cause, but I'd find it least likely and test all others first.
My first suggestion would have been to do what you say you already did, and that would be to try with half the RAM.
That leaves the PSU and graphics card, and that's where it gets harder to figure out because there's concerns with using your old ones as stand ins to test. The new PSU could be incapable of being stable when delivering the needed load the RTX 4060 pulls but be fine on the lesser load the GTX 1660 pulls, so you could change the GPU, see the issue is fixed, and be led to believe it was the GPU when it was actually the PSU. On the other hand, swapping the PSU might be a concern because the old 450W PSU might (?) be insufficient wattage to be sure it's enough to test with the RTX 4060?
Usually a PC shutting down is some electrical issue (not enough power, not enough voltage ona given part in some situation, etc.). I'd be suspecting PSU first, but that's just a guess.
Did you order these parts online, or was it at a place you can take it to in order to do some testing?
I've swapped between the 450W PSU and the 700W PSU while running the RTX 4060 but doesnt make a difference its still shutting down on games with the both of them, before upgrading the parts i was running the old GTX 1660 with the 450W PSU 8gb RAM and i've never had this issue before the PC was never shutting down on its own while playing and i've had 8-10 hours gaming sessions non stop without any issues whatsoever.
But now after adding the new GPU it keeps shutting down first i had the RTX 4060 with the 450W PSU and it was shutting down i tought the PSU was the issue so i got a brand new one ELITE NEX 700W 230V but still same issue.
As for the RAM i've swapped between both disks but nothing changes. Doesnt seem to fix it even when both are installed or even with one installed.
When i leave the PC on without playing any games it doesnt shut off, even when im watching Netflix/Youtube or doing work on it, only occures while playing games.
The difficulty you're facing is the old PSU is known to be good, but also results in a shutdown. That would imply the graphics card, but the old PSU might simply be lacking wattage. Similarly, I'm not aware of if the "Elite NEX 700W" is a good PSU. Looking it up suggests it's actually Cooler Master and they describe it as an entry level unit. It's not listed as being 80+ at all though, and while that's more of a sign of efficiency rather than how good it is, any good unit will be efficient enough to pass this rating by default.
So while you may have tried teo PSUs, given that one is possibly too low on wattage, and the other is questionable, and the result you're seeing is commonly from a lack of power... I think it doesn't rule out the new PSU as good.
This isn't to say I think the video card can be ruled out for sure either. I just think you definitely need a better way to verify the graphics card is good or not (read as, a known good PSU) before being sure. If you don't have a reliable method to rule one out, you're sort of at a crossroad of needing to guess on which you want to try and RMA first, knowing it might not be bad and you'll need to do a second RMA on the other.
Maybe someone else here has any ideas on how to narrow down which of the two it might be.
You could, of course, also try with your old storage to firmly rule out the new SSD (but I really think this is unlikely to be causing the result you're getting, so I'd find it likely wasted time, but you could spend the time doing it just to formally be sure if you want).
I'd personally return the PSU and get a well rated switching PSU; such as Seasonic Prime GX-850 or GX-1000. As Illusion of Progress noted, that PSU is only achieving a 75% efficiency, which again while not directly being indicative of poor quality it is absolutely a sign of cheap parts and cheaply designed PSU circuits.
Also, download and install CPUz and run the CPUz validator then post the result link here so people can see the specific details of your system and how things are configured/running.
Lastly, is there anything listed in the Event Viewer as an error or warning at the time your system has crashed while playing a game? What are those error(s) or warning(s) if any?
Here's the link from CPUz that i got after Validation: https://valid.x86.fr/72pfqj .
Also in the Event Viewer there are multiple Warnings Erros displayed before during and after the time of the crashes.
I get these errors in Administrative Logs:
The application-specific permission settings do not grant Local Activation permission for the COM Server application with CLSID
{2593F8B9-4EAF-457C-B68A-50F6B8EA6B54}
and APPID (Warrning)
Audit events have been dropped by the transport. 0(Error)
License Activation (slui.exe) failed with the following error code:
hr=0x8007139F
MDM Declared Configuration: Function (checkNewInstanceData) operation (Read isNewInstanceData) failed with (The parameter is incorrect.)
And some in System Warnings:
The application-specific permission settings do not grant Local Launch permission for the COM Server application with CLSID
Windows.SecurityCenter.WscDataProtection
and APPID
The application-specific permission settings do not grant Local Activation permission for the COM Server application with CLSID
{2593F8B9-4EAF-457C-B68A-50F6B8EA6B54}
and APPID
Local activation premission is the only Warning i get in System.
Are you able to run the CPUz benchmark without the system crashing? On CPUz go to the Bench tab and then select the Stress CPU option and it should run in perpetuity until you cancel it. Let that run for however long you normally see when playing games before your system crashes.
If that doesn't crash download a GPU benchmark such as Unigen Superposition[benchmark.unigine.com] or download the 3DMark Demo and download the free Timespy, Night Raid, and Fire Strike benchmarks from Steam
https://store.steampowered.com/app/223850/3DMark/
Also another question; did you wipe your GPU drivers with DDU when you installed the new GPU? usually not an issue but given you are experiencing problems it is worth doing as a troubleshooting step.
no vrm cooling, so the board it will cause it to throttle at load
and psu brand/model/age?
poor psu can cause shutdown or reboots
While the Motherboard is rather junk, if it worked fine with Ryzen 2600 + GTX 1660 I don't see why it wouldn't handle the RTX 4060
Does the new RAM match with the old RAM?
Do you have DRAM on AUTO pr you enable an XMP Profile?
Buy a quality PSU like Seasonic or FSP-Group
80+Gold Certified
I tried the CPUz Bench to stress the CPU and it actually crashes the PC in about the same time I experience it while playing a game.
You do not need the paid version to use as a proper stress test.
You have 8g ram and you add another 8g ram? That's mixing ram homie. You don't do that because your PC will be unstable.
Different ram has different manufacturing process and stability is affected at this level, even if you try to match voltage/timings, etc. It doesn't matter because it's still not the same when tolerances are introduced.
It's really time people stop mixing their ram. There's no reason to because ram is sold in a kit. It's supposed to be installed in kit too. Too many people mess up the easiest thing about their PC, in this case ram.
When you mix ram you create extra work; you have to open up your PC again, search for compatible dimms (good luck with that!), test for stability, etc.. it's just never a smart move no matter what. Even if you're being cheap, it's still not worth it. I'm not sure why this is even a thing.
You have to put a single dimm of ram in a2 slot.