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Сообщить о проблеме с переводом
you can buy a new ds3 clone for < $15 on amazon
the ps3 console itself, depends on the gen
first gen with ps1/ps2 compatabality (memory card slots and ps1/2 controller ports) will be spendy
(to play ps1/2 games you need a sony memory card and ps1/2 controller)
the later gen or thinner ones will be cheaper, but often need to be repaired (psu, odd+mobo, hdmi, cpu/gpu reflow or reball, hdd)
Either the 30gb - 60gb - 80gb PS3 Versions?
How much would be a fair price of each FAT PS3 Gens that works and doesn’t need repairs?
i might be mixing it up with the wii, that needed the gc controller and cards to play gc games
the orig ps3 did not have the 9pin ps/ps2 controller ports, you can use a sixaxis or ds3 on it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMZVIu-rCsY
iirc it was only the 20,60g vers that had backward compaabilty, but you can replace/upgrade its hdd to a 500g-1.5t
Also, how much would you think is a good price to buy one of those older fat PS3 gens? I have no idea how much they are worth.
You're right. The 20GB and 60GB original PS3s are backwards compatable. The 80GB version was backwards compatible for a time, but that was only via emulation.
I wouldn't pay more than $50 for the 20GB and $70 for the 60GB versions personally.
People who try to sell them on ebay as "WOW RARE BACKWARDS COMPATIBLE PS3" are scamming you, they're not rare and widely available at resonable prices.
they are rare now, many died or were unfixable
not sure on their price
if you have a capable pc you can use retroarch for ps1 games, or pcsx2 for ps2 games
then use an x360/xbone/xbones/ds4 to play them
and a later gen ps3 for the ps3 games
I bought a 20th anniversary PS4 for about $775. Worth it? Absolutely not, it's just a PS4 that's worth half the price. But I wanted it, so I decided it was worth it.
getting around the 'warranty void' sticker can be done carefully
but most ametures that try to work on them leave clues that they have worked on them
pry/scratches, burns/flux, poor solder joints, incorrectly re-assembled ect..
if the board was baked in an oven to reflow, it can cause more problems
proper bga reflow/re-ball tools (bga or reflow station, stencil) can be expensive, not for most home gamers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6iGqyBsHxQ
You don't need to mess with solder or leave any signs for the ultimate temporary bodge job. You just unscrew the case and blast the cpu with a heatgun for a minute or so. It's as easy as that. If memory serves the screws on the case are black and scratch relatively easily. That will be your only sign. Not everyone is dishonest but look out for those who are
and they also do not heat the solder balls evenly
if it is touched or the table shakes while the solder is soft it can shift and destroy the reflow job and require reballing
heat bed and bga heat gun can reflow (using kapton tape to cover other components so they do not get hot)
but the proper fix is to replace the balls with leaded solder balls
the penny fix on the ps3 was the worst, add pennies to force the clamps to press the cpu/gpu on the board tighter
they are only on the first few gen of fatties
id still suggest a decent pc using reroarch and pcsx2 for ps/ps2 games
if the pc does not have a cd/dvd drive you can turn the game discs into rom or iso using winiso or other rip/burning software and transfer them via lan or usb
then find a newer ps3 slim for ps3 games
Which is exactly my point, with something as cheap as a heatgun you can effictively do a really sneaky bodge fix that leaves little to no evidence of tampering. I tried this myself on my old fat. The first time it lasted about 3 hours in black ops and the second time i did it, i managed to watch about 20 minutes of a film. it takes 15 minutes to do and leaves little to no trace of tampering. The penny fix was terrible, again very easy to do with little or no trace. So all im doing is urging the OP to take extra care when purchasing an old fat PS3. Nobody wants to be ripped off