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Yeah, 90mm seemed like a proprietary size when I first saw the specs
All a manufacturer has to do is make their own layout for how it screws it and also connects to the pcb, and they have you locked
Next check the cables around the motherboard, try keep them cable tied to the sides or behind the motherboard, making it clean. Ensuring airflow has no blockage across the motherboard.
Notice how the pc case splits into a top and bottom area, with the graphics card dividing it. You need one or more front fan(s) at a low position. Hot air rinses. The CPU fan and rear fan take out exhaust top-rear or optionally the top.
The graphics card has to do the lower area though. Make sure there's a line of flow for cool air on both. Some pc cases have an optional side fan to give better airflow for that low area, so if available consider adding an additional fan there.
Make sure to have a gap behind the PC case as well, as not to hot pocket air back there, which would cycle back around the graphics card. After running the PC for a while, feel around the back of the PC case, is it warm/hot? That would be returning into the case, making the graphics card fan have to work overtime.
Bigger the fan size, the better the airflow and less noise it tends to make. I don't personally go below 120mm, ideally wanting 140mm fan sizes. So that 90mm will be louder than others, but perhaps helping it with additional fans and better flow will keep it from needing to max out on speed / therefore increasing noise levels.
You can adjust the fan curve with an app (AORUS ENGINE), but I would only recommend you doing that after ensuring it can keep the temp down. That app is designed for overclocking, but ignore that part and just check the fan settings instead. For example: If another larger PC case fan is directed to cooling the graphics card and is effective enough, then the graphics card fan itself can be set to semi-active, lowering the fan curve or even turning it off at times. However, you don't want it to suddenly just blast max speed when temps are too high or not being able to cool it down at all!
The only other option would be replacing the entire heat sink / fan cooler on the graphics card for a custom one or liquid cooling... or replacing the card itself.
the back support bracket will be against the heatsink/rad
ziptie screws are fine, or sometimes you can order the correct fans from ebay, but will cost more than standard 80-92-120mm case fans
I wouldn't recommend it. The optional side fan on case, sure, but actually replacing the fans on the graphics card tends to require some design work in airflow direction.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7LCxir54Cpc
https://www.amazon.com/GDSTIME-Graphic-Card-Graphics-Cooler/dp/B07H5KPY8P/
optional variable control:
https://www.amazon.com/Baosity-Computer-Controller-Connection-Interface/dp/B07PH8P25F/
Use a 4-pin PWM Fan and plug into a Motherboard header so you can control it.
The GPU had temperature monitors on itself, which the motherboard fan controllers won't detect. You would either have to run the fans at high speed all the time or use guess work to keep the graphics card stable at all times. It would heat up a lot faster than the motherboard.
Doing this via BIOS or even Windows is impossible, but you might get away with using a third-party app such as Argus Monitor? Reading the GPU temp monitors, then feeding it back to a System Fan Curve.
https://www.argusmonitor.com/
black = gnd, red = +12v, yellow = rpm sense(only connect to one fan per header), blue = pwm
https://www.ebay.com/itm/184504834634
if the gpu has a header or sense pin for each fan you can connect them as the orig fans were