First time custom watercooling GPU/CPU - What do I need, how to do it properly?

[DoomSlayer]

I'm mainly looking to watercool my Strix 5700 XT... I've been wanting to replace it with a 6000 series GPU or a 3000 series Nvidia card, but who knows when they're going to be instock - and I'm not exactly in the position to spend $1000+ on a new GPU, even if I were to sell my card.

I've overclocked my GPU and CPU to insane levels ever since I bought them. My Strix card is capable of holding a clockspeed of 2245MHz, but it gets wayyy too hot wayy to fast with the air cooler.

I've got a Deepcool 360 AIO on my CPU already, so technically - I only have to watercool my GPU? But if I'm even going to bother custom watercooling, I might as well do my CPU too?

So, what should I do first? What parts do I need, and whats the "cheapest" route to do all this lol?
I don't really care about RGB...even if I got a case with rgb...cooler...ram...I digress...getting the case I got now was a mistake, pain in the ass to setup but whatever... lmao.

Thanks!

--
My specs and current OC settings...

-Case: deepcool matrexx 50 add-rgb 4f

-CPU: Ryzen 7 3800x @ 4625MHz all-core 1.375mv (LLC drops to 1.33/1.34v under load)

-CPU Cooling: Deepcool Castle 360 RGB V2

-RAM: TEAMGROUP T-Force Delta RGB 32GB (4x8GB) 3200MHz

-Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Gaming X

-PSU: Corsair CX750M

-Gigabyte G27QC 1440p 165hz monitor
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[_I_]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pU2KvawDP10

[DoomSlayer]

Originally posted by _I_:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pU2KvawDP10

I understand the basics of custom watercooling - I just need to know where to start off, what stuff I should get and if I should worry about doing my CPU as well or not

[_I_]

he goes over alot
check some of the other videos for more specifics

aio is cheap but has limited lifespan ~3-5yr
a custom loop can be cleaned and reused

basically a
120mm rad for each component at stock
240mm rad for each component overclocked

pump
waterblock for each component to cool
reservoir to hold extra coolant
tubing
coolant (distilled water + additives + color)

basic flow
pump -> block -> rad -> block -> rad -> res
rad on cold air as intake (largest temp difference as possible to cool rad)

if the case has room for watercooling everything you can

[r.linder]

It's not really worth it, you're better off waiting until it blows over because a 6800-XT or 3080 is going to be significantly better than any overclock you can pull off on a 5700-XT, and a custom loop even for just a GPU is not cheap, raising the total cost of the GPU to basically the same level for significantly less performance and it will be more difficult to sell the card later -- and blocks are not usually compatible with other GPU core models or even the same core but a different brand or model.


Also, that's too much voltage for a Zen2 processor in a manual OC, as I've told you many times. The FIT is designed to protect the chip so it doesn't do exactly what you're doing to it, you're just slowly damaging your CPU over time, and your LLC setting isn't set correctly, that's why the vdroop is so bad under heavy load and that is a stability concern, you do not want to be losing or gaining voltage at all. For most Gigabyte boards, Turbo seems to be the best setting for overclocking from my own experience and from the recommendation of Yuri Bubliy (1usmus, developer of Work Tool and its successor, Clock Tuner)
When you run a manual OC, the FIT is disabled, so it can't protect you, and anything over 1.35v (AMD's recommendation) of actual core voltage is not good for the processor, and FIT normally will not allow anything higher than that in a high or max current load. As the silicon becomes damaged over time by an unsafe OC, the FIT will have to react accordingly and the CPU will not be able to boost as well as it did when it was first taken out of the box.

Regardless of cooling, Ryzen processors were not designed to be pushed like Intel CPUs can be pushed, and AMD pushes them basically to their safe limits already in the factory. It's just that the auto OC functions like Precision Boost are still imperfect and generally use more voltage than necessary, but tools like Clock Tuner can find an optimised profile that uses much less voltage while staying under the same TDP, while more voltage generally results in only a few percent better frequencies but much higher power consumption, making the chip less power efficient and making it harder to cool.
You need to stop overclocking so recklessly, because you're likely destroying the lifespan of the parts in the long term, and if you're planning on passing them down or selling them, the next person in line is going to pay the price.

[dOBER]

Originally posted by DoomSlayer:

So, what should I do first? What parts do I need, and whats the "cheapest" route to do all this lol?

Unfortunately there is no "cheap" route for custom watercooling.
For basic things we talk about:

100-200 bucks for gpu cooler ( depends on your model)
150+ bucks for reservoir/pump combo
80-100 bucks for each radiator (decent ones) and you want as much as you can fit in your case. Only one will be bad for temps and acoustic if you plan to use it for cpu and gpu.
50-100 bucks for a cpu cooler
30-50 bucks for softtube fittings
5 bucks for softtube
Fans with good air pressure for radiators. Good ones cost about 25 bucks each.

Custom watercooling can escalte very quick. I payed ~ 2500€ for my loop and it doesnt even have "expesive parts" in it.

[_I_]

as for value, watercooling is never worth it, unless its for a show or demo job that needs it
a good air cooler (nh d15) can do close to the performance of a 240mm rad
gpus have a good enough cooler on them for their stock clocks (and oc models)