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Докладване на проблем с превода
About the monitor, if you're wanting to save money, and you're only doing 1080p, why not just hook up to your TV for now?
As for monitors, check out the Pixio PX247 or AOC 24G2. I think it makes more sense to get a $20 Amazon Basics keyboard and mouse and toss them into the closet as a backup once you save up enough for whatever fancy ones you really want than put with a bad monitor that isn't that much cheaper than a good monitor.
you can start with a 500g-1tb ssd, and add 2/4+tb hdds later
500g ssd is more than enough for the os and a few games
get a good monitor, they will last 10+ years through several builds or upgrades
same with a quality power supply, and good case
cpu/mobo/ram combos normally stay together to move down the upgrade chain (gaming -> htpc -> streaming client -> browsing)
gpu upgrades as needed also
for 1080p60 gaming 1660s is the best budget card, will not use much power and good performance for 60fps
if you go wtih a 1440p60 or 1080p144, get a 2070 or better if possible
try this, nvme ssd, and using filters
https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/list/YtKswh
also using the TV is a great idea actually, thanks :D
why do i need a onboard audio ? is these like intergrated speakers ? and thanks for the Monitor recommendations.
i mean, the problem is that i cant find a good case or a PSU because whenever i choose something and ask on forums 5 people recommend and 5 other who say "DONT GET IT ITS A BOMB (for PSU) or has bad airflow (for cases)"
For a mid-tier build with a reasonable component selection, you should be more than well equipped with anything 600W or under PSU. Some builds are perfectly fine with a 450W, some maybe a 550W would be a better investment, but unless you're buying a 2080 Ti, over 600W is probably unecessary. It looks like the one you've chosen is quite serviceable, and I really like Seasonic, personally.
For game dev, the AMD GPU is questionable if it will ever get ray tracing support. Supposedly AMD will have a solution to "back port" a ray tracing solution to RDNA 1 in software, but will they actually? If they do, will it actually be good? Who knows.
The RTX part actually has ray tracing support today, so if you're going to do any fiddling with ray tracing, there you go. There's some rumors I've seen saying ray tracing support can be enabled on GTX-class cards (potentially even Pascal) through a software solution, but again, knowing NVIDIA, this is unlikely, but we'll have to see. All I know at this moment is that if you want official ray tracing support right now, RTX is the only currently available solution.
For CPU, AMD is probably the better solution just based on a mixed workload; if you're doing dev work, the extra multi-threaded capability and "cheaper for more cores" solutions available from Team Red probably fit better here. You can get 16 cores for $1000 with an excellent motherboard and memory, whereas with Intel unless you step up to HEDT you're limited to 10 (admittedly very fast with good OC headroom) cores for around the same cost, maybe a little less if you aren't factoring in the cost of adequate cooling to achieve the most performance from the i9.
You've chosen a 3600, which is fine, and will save you a little cash now, but you can get another couple cores for not much more money if you think you could take advantage of them, but it's up to you if this would be enough of an improvement in dev to be worth the extra cost. The AM4 platform you'd be investing in would also allow you at least (but probably only) one more CPU upgrade down the line if that sort of thing is an important consideration for you.
I would maybe consider spending a few more dollars on a slightly better motherboard. perhaps this one - https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/product/39LwrH/gigabyte-b550m-aorus-pro-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-b550m-aorus-pro
It isn't exceptionally better, but it has (what I assume) are slightly better Realtek gigabit NIC and integrated audio controllers, a slightly beefier VRM, and an actual heatsink on the SoC VRM. That last bit about the heatsink isn't necessarily the biggest deal in the world, it's just IMO better to have one than not so you just don't have to worry about airflow and overheating components on the mobo. Otherwise they're fairly similar boards, with a few differences in terms of internal connectors. The DS3H has fewer rear I/O ports than the Aorus, but if you need a PS/2 port for keyboard then it's the only one of the two that has one.
As for memory, the kit you selected is fine, however for future-proofing maybe a 32GB kit would be a wise investment, especially if you're doing dev - I don't know how important system memory is in game dev, but I would imagine more couldn't hurt. There are also performance gains to be had with dual-rank DIMMs such as these - https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/product/kXbkcf/gskill-memory-f43200c16d32gvk
This would also allow you to upgrade to 64GB in the future if you needed to. Unknown to me how helpful it would be, so I'd let someone else better versed on the dev side of things to speak about it, but this would allow you a little bit of flexibility in that regard.
It looks nice, and if you really want that kind of thing, it's your money in the end. I would personally want something with a little better airflow. Here's an alternative - https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/product/crqBD3/phanteks-eclipse-p300a-mesh-atx-mid-tower-case-ph-ec300atg_bk01
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L9YfbCirTg
You would probably want to add at least one or two fans to the front as intakes, but these fans are reasonably priced and perform very well for the amount of noise they produce - https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/product/byjJ7P/arctic-p14-pwm-728-cfm-140mm-fan-acfan00124a
https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/product/Wm66Mp/arctic-p14-pwm-pst-728-cfm-140mm-fan-acfan00125a
https://www.amazon.fr/ASUS-Gaming-Souris-Optique-Droitier/dp/B07XS8Q3Q6/
Here are some more tips about the PSU. The brand doesn't matter as much as quality. I'd suggest getting at least a Silver or Gold rated one. I'd probably get at least 600w. You probably don't need more than that for what you're doing, but I probably wouldn't get less, either. The main other thing to think about is if you want it modular or not. That means you can unplug all of the wires you don't need so you don't have as much of a mess in your case. Some people care about neatness in their case, and others don't care as much.
About the onboard audio, I wouldn't worry too much about that. For one thing, unless you're recording music/audio, most onboard is decent. But more importantly, you're probably not going to even use it at all for audio output. You will most likely just use the HDMI audio that is built into your video card, especially if you're taking my previous advice on just using your TV.
Lastly, someone mentioned that you should go ahead and get 32GB. My thought is that's overkill for what you're shooting for, and 16GB will be fine to start off. Adding more RAM later is one of the easiest upgrades, and I don't really see 64GB being necessary for a very long time. Definitely not before this hardware will be obsolete.
Look at using an existing or cheap 1080p hdtv that has hdmi
Look at maybe grabbing a cheap $10 keyboard for now, change that later on. For mouse, a G203 or 403 is decent enough to start with.
Ssd are cheap I would just get maybe 1x 250gb and 1x 500gb ssds and if need more later, get like a 4TB 7200rpm hdd down the road. Or maybe just a 1tb ssd now and a decent hdd later.
Good bang for buck now would be...
Ryzen 3600
Hyper212 EVO cpu cooler
B550 Motherboard
Corsair 200R case
Corsair CX650M PSU or better
Gtx 1660 Super (upgrade to RTX 3060 or better later on)
so i downgraded to ryzen 3 3100 (ryzen 5 2600/1600af equivalent) so in the future i can get a new 4000 series or a ryzen 7
i got one of the best (and cheap) b550 motherboard that got everything i need
ram is still the same 2x8 (maybe i'll give this to a friend in the future and get 2x16)
SSD is the same 500Mb (i'll get a 1 or 2Tb HDD l8r)
same GTX 1660 Super (which will be cool for 1080p 60hz gaming and some VR)
i changed the case tho, i found this nice Metalic Gear cases which look cool and got nice airflow imo
and a 80+bronze 600W EVGA psu for future upgrades (which has some nice reviews)
i also added 2 be quite! 120mm fans (maybe will get a 3rd one in the future)
i will also buy a 10-20€ fan controller, a usb or pcie wifi adapter (10-30€) and cheap keyboard/mouse/headphones (for now)
i'll use my tv as a monitor or will buy a cheap second head one for the beginning
all this thanks to you guys so thank you again :D
The motherboard has plenty of fan headers, so you could conceivably eliminate the fan controller entirely and just use the BIOS to control them. There's a fan header listed as "water cooling CPU" or something along those lines, however there's no reason why you can't just use it for a case fan. Also, if for some reason you have too many fans for the amount of headers available, Y splitters are cheap and the Arctic fans I linked to earlier labeled as PST include one in the package.
Your original PSU was fine, but so is the EVGA. EVGA has excellent customer service here in the states (not sure about Europe), and IMO is one of the best companies in the industry. They're just outsourcing PSU's from other OEM's, which is fine, other reputable brands do the same thing, and probably even use the same OEM depending on the unit.
As for the case, I would recommend when you receive it and do your build, swap the fans that come installed in the front for the aftermarket ones you're buying, and install the RGB's in the rear and the top respectively as exhausts. It'll light up the part of the case you might actually want to see, and since I imagine the fans aren't as great a quality as the be quiet's or other name brands, you might hear them less in the rear, and whatever failing they have performance-wise will be less detrimental as applied to an exhaust fan, rather than as an intake.
For a WiFi adapter, definitely get an internal PCIe expansion card. PCIe x1 WiFi cards can be had very economically and won't interfere with the rest of your system, and you won't have to deal with any USB wonkiness. Stick with Intel here, such as a 92x0 802.11AC adapter, or AX200 802.11AX (you'll have to find one integrated onto an actual add-in card, from for example ASUS, but the actual WiFi M.2 module should still be Intel).
Good luck, and enjoy your new build!