[SOLVED] PC Wont Boot/POST

[KingKai]

I recently upgraded my pc so i got a new mb, cpu, and ram. Ever since this upgrade my pc has been turning on but not posting. All the lights and fans are on but the screen says no signal. I have tried booting the pc several different ways but no luck with all of them those ways being; just cpu mb and psu(this was for a issue that has stopped now)/ only one stick of ram (trying each of them individually)/ everything but the gpu plugged in/ and tried different monitors. While all of this hasn't worked i tried resetting the cmos and no luck there but this is what helped the issue I mentioned. through these multiple tests only once my monitor and keyboard lights flashed for just about a second then immediately turned off but the fans and lights in my pc continued to run. Last thing to add is that my mb has a 8 pin power connector but i'm only using a 4 pin connector is this my issue? All help is appreciated.
My Specs
Gpu: rx580
cpu: r5 1600
ram: 8 gb ddr4 (2x4gb)
mb: asrock x370 pro4

[Omega]

Your CPU does not have an integrated video chip so you need to have the GPU installed and your monitor needs to be connected to the GPU.

Make sure all power cables are connected, the Ryzen should indeed run with a single 4pin do connect an extra CPU power cable if you have one available. You need to connect the 4pin CPU power on the right side of the connector.

You can also try clearing the CMOS, simply remove the CMOS battery from the motherboard for a few minutes.

[KingKai]

Originally posted by Omega:

Your CPU does not have an integrated video chip so you need to have the GPU installed and your monitor needs to be connected to the GPU.

Make sure all power cables are connected, the Ryzen should indeed run with a single 4pin do connect an extra CPU power cable if you have one available. You need to connect the 4pin CPU power on the right side of the connector.

You can also try clearing the CMOS, simply remove the CMOS battery from the motherboard for a few minutes.

I have done all of this but there is still no luck

[an annoying pirate]

you need a gpu to have a display

try reseating the cpu (happened to me before prob some pin not making good contact)
check all your cable

[KingKai]

Originally posted by an annoying pirate:

you need a gpu to have a display

try reseating the cpu (happened to me before prob some pin not making good contact)
check all your cable

ive tried this too today but still nothing

[Bad 💀 Motha]

But you said "tried with and without the GPU"
You don't have a choice cause your CPU has no onboard GPU, so you can't use any of the Video Outputs on your Motherboard with said CPU, period. So you must use a dedicated GPU and plug Display into this card.

If it has seemed like a dead-end, remove the Motherboard from the Case and test on a safe flat surface, like on-top the Motherboard box and start with the basics; excluding hooking up extras like Drives and such. Checking that everything is correct and secure. Resetting the BIOS couldn't hurt either to ensure BIOS settings of any sort aren't an issue here.

Re-seating CPU shouldn't be a need, if it's installed then it's either a working CPU, or not.
If not then it's usually something else, such as the Motherboard. Also you have to be very careful with AM4 CPUs cause removing a cooler on these fully "could" yank the CPU from the socket if not careful, due to the paste has settled into place fully, making the CPU seem almost glued to the cooler's base. So if you remove the cpu cooler, before any pulling upwards away from CPU, first give it a slight twisting left and right motion to "break" the clasp the paste has between the CPU and Cooler surfaces.

[KingKai]

Originally posted by Bad_Motha:

But you said "tried with and without the GPU"
You don't have a choice cause your CPU has no onboard GPU, so you can't use any of the Video Outputs on your Motherboard with said CPU, period. So you must use a dedicated GPU and plug Display into this card.

If it has seemed like a dead-end, remove the Motherboard from the Case and test on a safe flat surface, like on-top the Motherboard box and start with the basics; excluding hooking up extras like Drives and such. Checking that everything is correct and secure. Resetting the BIOS couldn't hurt either to ensure BIOS settings of any sort aren't an issue here.

Re-seating CPU shouldn't be a need, if it's installed then it's either a working CPU, or not.
If not then it's usually something else, such as the Motherboard. Also you have to be very careful with AM4 CPUs cause removing a cooler on these fully "could" yank the CPU from the socket if not careful, due to the paste has settled into place fully, making the CPU seem almost glued to the cooler's base. So if you remove the cpu cooler, before any pulling upwards away from CPU, first give it a slight twisting left and right motion to "break" the clasp the paste has between the CPU and Cooler surfaces.

well for gpu i also tried it with gpu i upgraded from but still nothing. I did try to boot on the motherboard box with no gpu or hdd with nothing happening so i then moved on to no ram as well. still nothing. I dont know how to reset the bios but i dont think that would be an issue because since i upgraded i havent gotten far enough to even get the chance to try to go in the bios yet. I also did reseat everything but that still lead to nothing as well.

[Bad 💀 Motha]

You don't need to go into the actual BIOS in order to reset this to factory defaults.
This is done from the board itself with power off.

Either there is a button to hold on the motherboard; there is a 2-pin jumper; or you can do this by disconnecting the PSU cord, hold Case power button to discharge the Motherboard + PSU, then remove the coin battery from the Motherboard for a few minutes.

You motherboard manual would detail how to reset the bios.

Please test any GPU on another working PC if you can to ensure at least one of them working fine, because since you do not have any onboard GPU, you will need a working GPU card in order to see the Motherboard actually POST at all.

[KingKai]

Originally posted by Bad_Motha:

You don't need to go into the actual BIOS in order to reset this to factory defaults.
This is done from the board itself with power off.

Either there is a button to hold on the motherboard; there is a 2-pin jumper; or you can do this by disconnecting the PSU cord, hold Case power button to discharge the Motherboard + PSU, then remove the coin battery from the Motherboard for a few minutes.

You motherboard manual would detail how to reset the bios.

Please test any GPU on another working PC if you can to ensure at least one of them working fine, because since you do not have any onboard GPU, you will need a working GPU card in order to see the Motherboard actually POST at all.

oh ok i was reseting the bios both with the jumper and with the actual battery but that didnt do anything for me. I dont have a second computer to test that the gpu's are working but they should be because before i got the new mb cpu and ram i was using the rx 580 with my ollder mb cpu and ram. Also the lights and fans on the card turn on.

[Bad 💀 Motha]

If the system refuses to post with known good RAM and GPU (remember you don't need any drives hooked up to post to bios, so disconnect those fully for now); then overall I'd have to suggest this is a dead Motherboard most likely.

I'd take the PC to a Tech/Shop if you have no other good means of testing by swapping in known good parts to further rule out what is good/bad.

Lights and Fans just means power from power-supply is being passed through ok. But that also doesn't mean the Motherboard is fully working, or not.

You sure these power connections are attached in correct placement and fully secured?
> ATX 24 pine Main Power
> EPS 4+4 pin CPU Power
> 1x working RAM installed in correct DIMM slot for single RAM usage (refer to Motherboard for this, as it's not always clear which slot to use when only using 1x RAM)
> GPU into top-most PCIE (X16 length) slot
> GPU power connectors attached from PSU (if any, these are required)
> Display powered on, correct input in selected, and display cable (DVI-D, HDMI, or DP) is attached securely to both your Display and dedicated GPU card.
> Primary CPU Fan Header is populated with a working fan.
> Keyboard and Mouse (this can be done after a post, if for some reason you suspect these devices to be at fault some how, as the BIOS should halt if it posts without detecting a Keyboard)

Without hooking up the actual PC Case power button to the pins on the Motherboard, you can trigger a power on by briefly shorting the pins required for that power switch on the front i/o area of the Motherboard, since this is a momentary trigger switch, not a mechanical toggle switch. If using this method, if power-off is needed to be done, you can use the main power switch on rear of PSU. If a simple forced reboot process is needed (when system is working, but not within an OS) you can trigger a reboot by pressing CTRL+ALT+DEL

When you are power testing a PC, please allow a good 60-90 secs of power on state without interactions from you, so that the BIOS (UEFI) can check for any hardware changes, pickup and display through the GPU, etc.

[KingKai]

Originally posted by Bad_Motha:

If the system refuses to post with known good RAM and GPU (remember you don't need any drives hooked up to post to bios, so disconnect those fully for now); then overall I'd have to suggest this is a dead Motherboard most likely.

I'd take the PC to a Tech/Shop if you have no other good means of testing by swapping in known good parts to further rule out what is good/bad.

Lights and Fans just means power from power-supply is being passed through ok. But that also doesn't mean the Motherboard is fully working, or not.

You sure these power connections are attached in correct placement and fully secured?
> ATX 24 pine Main Power
> EPS 4+4 pin CPU Power
> 1x working RAM installed in correct DIMM slot for single RAM usage (refer to Motherboard for this, as it's not always clear which slot to use when only using 1x RAM)
> GPU into top-most PCIE (X16 length) slot
> GPU power connectors attached from PSU (if any, these are required)
> Display powered on, correct input in selected, and display cable (DVI-D, HDMI, or DP) is attached securely to both your Display and dedicated GPU card.

Without hooking up the actual PC Case power button to the pins on the Motherboard, you can trigger a power on by briefly shorting the pins required for that power switch on the front i/o area of the Motherboard, since this is a momentary trigger switch, not a mechanical toggle switch. If using this method, if power-off is needed to be done, you can use the main power switch on rear of PSU. If a simple forced reboot process is needed (when system is working, but not within an OS) you can trigger a reboot by pressing CTRL+ALT+DEL

When you are power testing a PC, please allow a good 60-90 secs of power on state without interactions from you, so that the BIOS (UEFI) can check for any hardware changes, pickup and display through the GPU, etc.

so everything seems to be right about my pc in this but the thing is my psu doesnt have an 8 pin connector that fits on the motherboard so I am just using a 4 pin but according to the maual you only really need to have a 4 pin as long as it is 12v if I understood it correctly.

[Bad 💀 Motha]

While ASROCK says:

ATX 12V Power Connector
(8-pin ATX12V1)

This motherboard provides a 8-pin ATX 12V power connector.
To use a 4-pin ATX power supply, please plug it along Pin 1 and Pin 5.

PDF Manual (English) for ASROCK X370 PRO4
http://asrock.pc.cdn.bitgravity.com/Manual/X370%20Pro4.pdf

But from my experiences, if you are using certain CPU and/or GPU, the full use of an 8-pin EPS for that 12V is usually required. The shameful part here is that ASROCK does not at all, go into details of what could be the differences on this Motherboard, and when or why the full 8-pin EPS power would be required and not optional.


Since you have not shared, what is your full model of PSU?

As it's possible your PSU simply is not enough on the 12V rail(s)

[KingKai]

Originally posted by Bad_Motha:

While ASROCK says:

ATX 12V Power Connector
(8-pin ATX12V1)

This motherboard provides a 8-pin ATX 12V power connector.
To use a 4-pin ATX power supply, please plug it along Pin 1 and Pin 5.

PDF Manual (English) for ASROCK X370 PRO4
http://asrock.pc.cdn.bitgravity.com/Manual/X370%20Pro4.pdf

But from my experiences, if you are using certain CPU and/or GPU, the full use of an 8-pin EPS for that 12V is usually required. The shameful part here is that ASROCK does not at all, go into details of what could be the differences on this Motherboard, and when or why the full 8-pin EPS power would be required and not optional.


Since you have not shared, what is your full model of PSU?

As it's possible your PSU simply is not enough on the 12V rail(s)

my psu is a thermaltake tr2 rx-550

Originally posted by KingKai:

Originally posted by Bad_Motha:

While ASROCK says:

ATX 12V Power Connector
(8-pin ATX12V1)

This motherboard provides a 8-pin ATX 12V power connector.
To use a 4-pin ATX power supply, please plug it along Pin 1 and Pin 5.

PDF Manual (English) for ASROCK X370 PRO4
http://asrock.pc.cdn.bitgravity.com/Manual/X370%20Pro4.pdf

But from my experiences, if you are using certain CPU and/or GPU, the full use of an 8-pin EPS for that 12V is usually required. The shameful part here is that ASROCK does not at all, go into details of what could be the differences on this Motherboard, and when or why the full 8-pin EPS power would be required and not optional.


Since you have not shared, what is your full model of PSU?

As it's possible your PSU simply is not enough on the 12V rail(s)

my psu is a thermaltake tr2 rx-550

Something I just learned is that the psu is supposed to have a 4+4 pin which would work for my psu but mine doesn't somthing to say is thatI got this from my uncle when he was done using it and I got it from him about 4 years ago so im not really sure if something might have happened to it or not.

[Bad 💀 Motha]

There seem to be a few varients of those TR2 RX
Some have revisions.
Does your PSU have a red toggle switch in the rear of the PSU?

Here's an example:
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/tgcAAOSwPEFbk2lG/s-l500.jpg

[KingKai]

Originally posted by Bad_Motha:

There seem to be a few varients of those TR2 RX
Some have revisions.
Does your PSU have a red toggle switch in the rear of the PSU?

Here's an example:
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/tgcAAOSwPEFbk2lG/s-l500.jpg

yah mine does have the red switch

[Bad 💀 Motha]

Then that's why it has 4pin only connector.
The "TR2 RX" models with better specs, even by the same name, simply have a newer revision released at some point, where they upgraded the internals, got rid of that switch, features things like Active-PFC to meet modern standards, and supplied a full 4+4-pin EPS connection as well.

With the presence of that switch, means the PSU is much older that what we deem acceptable for current-day PC hardware. As with that switch, means Passive PFC and not Active PFC switching methods. Passive PFC is dangerous! It's why it was replaced so the PSU can logic-switch based on actual detection of 115Vac -vs- 230Vac.

Aside from these vary basics, I personally would have to deem that PSU un-safe for modern day hardware, as it's designed around much older specs, doesn't support modern day specs that are much better, stricter and safer. This means lack of support for various fail-safes, over-voltage-protections, modern day stand-by features and/or c-states. These older PSUs basically have no-fail-safes restricting it from basically killing your Motherboard and/or other parts.


I'm sure Omega, Tacoshy, rotNdude or Vadim could elaborate in better details.