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Try clicking 100 times on this page and see how many clicks register...
https://codepen.io/blink172/full/vERyxK
There is a better website to test it with somewhere but I can't find it.
switches
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-New-Authentic-OMRON-Mouse-Micro-Switch-D2FC-F-7N-Mouse-Button-Fretting/202925416084
encoder will have a number stamped on it for how tall it is 9-11mm are most common for mouse
you can use 11mm and trim the bracket and legs to make it shorter
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pcs-11mm-Mouse-Encoder-Scroll-Wheel-Repair-Part-Switch/222802350592
just need decent desoldering tols for the 3pin components
iron and solder sucker or wick
(the ground/brackets on the encoder will be the hard part, but you do not need to solder them back on to make it easier to replace next time, legs will hold it, not electrically attached to the encoder and only used to hold it but the leds do that as good)
some decent tips for desoldering thru hole components
The lower voltage of newer mice don't meet even the minimum requirements for a lot of mechanical switches, so they end up corroding quicker due to the lack of voltage that protects the switches from deteriorating. This is why a lot of companies are switching to optical switches, since they're designed differently and don't suffer from this issue.
Older mice don't suffer from this issue. I'm still using an original Deathadder from 2006, and I haven't had any switch failure yet. Of course they can still fail from them wearing out, but it's extremely rare they will fail short term.
I would highly suggest looking at mice that uses optical switches.