Shimmering/Flickering(getting tired of it)

[Nïċḵ]

Please, I really need some help here. I'm going crazy with this issue cause I don't know what else to do. I have been trying to fix this problem for months. The only thing that got me close was to use AMD's VSR(Virtual Super Resolution) so I can render games at higher resolution than the display's native resolution.





PC Specs:

MB - GA-AB350M-Gaming 3

CPU - Ryzen 5 1500X

GPU - Gigabyte RX 560 4GB OC

RAM - Crucial 8GB 2666Mhz

HDD - Blue Wd Western Digital 1TB

PSU - XFX XT 500W 80 PLUS BRONZE

Monitor - Generic Samsung 1366x768


I have been looking in a lot of forums(and I mean it, a damn lot, even 15 years old forums) and I honestly haven't found a single person who could actually asnwer this... nightmare of a riddle.

Some said it could be hardware related, but other people said they changed the entire rig(including monitor) only to find that they still had the same problem. Others recommended to do what I did(the super resolution thing) but it only reduced the issue, didn't really fix it. Some, like usual, talking about lack of antialiasing(even tho I have tried with everything at highest).

Some random guy in a Nvidia forum, even said that this was a brain trick. That games actually look that, and that the problem is not a "problem", it's just that our eyes noticed that texture shimmer/flicker in games, and once we see it, we can't unsee it anymore. Explaining why some(literally 90% of the gaming community, because I haven't seen few that actually talk about this issue) didn't get any troubles with their games, but it is still there, just that they didn't notice... That's some nazis were the good guys level of bullls**t theory.

[Masque]

On NVidia, I was having this problem -- shimmering in 3D games when moving the camera.

I have an option called Negative LOD Bias, and when I set it to "Clamp" -- the problem went away entirely, and I was amazed.

https://i.imgur.com/Httok0a.png

Does AMD have a similar option in their control panel?

[M4XXST3IN]

Strange that no one mentioned the Negative LOD Bias to fix this you need to set this to Clamp vs Allow for Nvidia users & for ATI users it might be under a different setting name, the only problem is that Nvidia stop supporting Clamp

[EASYJABBA]

Try this theory, connect the unit to a HDTV, 1080 or above, Set to RGB 4:4:4, see if the issue persists.

If so then DL something like Reshade or SweetFX and allocate some extreme SMAA setting.

Hope this helps.

[M4XXST3IN]

Ⓜ Ⓐ Ⓢ Ⓠ Ⓤ Ⓔ の投稿を引用：

On NVidia, I was having this problem -- shimmering in 3D games when moving the camera.

I have an option called Negative LOD Bias, and when I set it to "Clamp" -- the problem went away entirely, and I was amazed.

https://i.imgur.com/Httok0a.png

Does AMD have a similar option in their control panel?

I just notice that Nvidia stop support since the 500 series for LOD Clamp also I think Clamp was mostly for OpenGL

[filip227]

I fix the problem, here is the solution:

Okay, let me sum up the solution here:
1) Either turn down your sharpness to 0
2) Or (e.g. for a Samsung TV) set the HDMI input label to "PC".
This will do the following actions automatically:
2a) It will automatically grey out the options of sharpness and color (to the value "50"), but sharpness is actually set to "0" internally)
2b) It will enable "PC Gaming" mode, so you will have low input latency because most image processing is turned off. [For solution 1) you could've enabled this mode also manually on top of reducing the sharpness].
2c) It will set the RGB/HDMI input level to "normal" (color space 0-255) everytime(!) you set the HDMI input label to "PC". This might be an disadvantage: You have to use the same setting ("understanding of color range") on
both devices (image outputting device and display), otherwise you get crushed white or black colors. Most TVs nowadays support the full RGB range.
I will list the synonyms of the ranges used across different devices and manufacturers here:
RGB levels 0-255 = RGB full = RGB normal
RGB level 16-235 = RGB limited = RGB low

An example:
If you set your color space/RGB levels to 0-255 in your graphics driver (PC) or console (e.g. XBox One, called "RGB Full" here), the TV HDMI input level "normal" is already the correct one.
If you use 16-235 on your PC, set your TV to HDMI black level "limited" or "low".

So c) should be set correctly for your devices once and for all to enjoy the best image regardless of the problem here. But just have in mind that it gets reset to "normal", if you change the HDMI input label (that's why I mentioned it).

You can thank "duracotton" from youtube

[neo]

I knew i wasn’t some kind of pc hypochondriac.
Did you manage to find any info? Having the same issue and it’s driving me insane

[neo]

filip227 の投稿を引用：

I fix the problem, here is the solution:

Okay, let me sum up the solution here:
1) Either turn down your sharpness to 0
2) Or (e.g. for a Samsung TV) set the HDMI input label to "PC".
This will do the following actions automatically:
2a) It will automatically grey out the options of sharpness and color (to the value "50"), but sharpness is actually set to "0" internally)
2b) It will enable "PC Gaming" mode, so you will have low input latency because most image processing is turned off. [For solution 1) you could've enabled this mode also manually on top of reducing the sharpness].
2c) It will set the RGB/HDMI input level to "normal" (color space 0-255) everytime(!) you set the HDMI input label to "PC". This might be an disadvantage: You have to use the same setting ("understanding of color range") on
both devices (image outputting device and display), otherwise you get crushed white or black colors. Most TVs nowadays support the full RGB range.
I will list the synonyms of the ranges used across different devices and manufacturers here:
RGB levels 0-255 = RGB full = RGB normal
RGB level 16-235 = RGB limited = RGB low

An example:
If you set your color space/RGB levels to 0-255 in your graphics driver (PC) or console (e.g. XBox One, called "RGB Full" here), the TV HDMI input level "normal" is already the correct one.
If you use 16-235 on your PC, set your TV to HDMI black level "limited" or "low".

So c) should be set correctly for your devices once and for all to enjoy the best image regardless of the problem here. But just have in mind that it gets reset to "normal", if you change the HDMI input label (that's why I mentioned it).

You can thank "duracotton" from youtube

I have no clue how to do this can you help?

[Fajita Jim]

Have you tried turning up the Anisotropic Filtering (AF)?

[_I_]

does it appear in screenshots?

you can make your own thread instead of bumping one that 3 years old

[Komarimaru]

What a necro lol Twice even.